Author Topic: Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out? UPDATE  (Read 2403 times)

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Jeffe 81

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Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out? UPDATE
« on: Mar 23, 2007, 02:43:24 PM »
On my '81 22r, I sheared off a bolt that runs through my water pump all the way into the block.   It is the one 12mm bolt (versus the rest are 10mm) that is on the left center of the water pump.  About 4mm of the bolt threads are still in the block.  The bolt broke as I was tightening it back in and before the bolt got too snug.  Some solutions I've thought about so far are:

Does anyone make a bolt extractor that is about 3" long?  Local hardware store only has a short one that won't reach with the timing cover still on.

Can I pull off the timing cover without removing the head and NOT damage the head gasket?

Do I really even need the bolt and could I get away with plugging the hole with JB weld or something similar?  Is the bolt needed to seal the timing cover to the block as well as the water pump to the cover?

The situation is that I'm planning on putting in a remanufactured engine this summer and I only need the fix to last 5,000 miles or so.  The other issue is that a lot of those miles are driving from the montains down to Denver and back up the 60 mile long hill that gains 5,000 ft of elevation! Thanks for your help   :bowdown: :help:

Jeff

Here is a link to a picture of the bolt
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/image005.jpg
« Last Edit: Mar 25, 2007, 03:44:55 PM by Jeffe 81 »
'81 with Marlin transmission and 1600 non ceramic clutch, Tri-Y Doug Thorley Headers, Weber 38

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Re: Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out?
« Reply #1 on: Mar 23, 2007, 03:07:20 PM »
extraction tool or get creative w/ some JB weld.

probably gonna be a pita either way but if there's a will there's a way!
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Jeffe 81 [OP]

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Re: Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out?
« Reply #2 on: Mar 23, 2007, 03:11:41 PM »
I was thinking of completely filling the bolt hole from the water pump to the block.  My concern is that either oil will leak between the timing cover and block, coolant will leak between the water pump and timing cover, or that oil and coolant and will mix between the water pump and the block.  It seems like that bolt is there for a reason.  What do you think?      :inthedark:
'81 with Marlin transmission and 1600 non ceramic clutch, Tri-Y Doug Thorley Headers, Weber 38

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Re: Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out?
« Reply #3 on: Mar 23, 2007, 07:05:57 PM »
If you are careful you can remove the front cover without removing the head and gasket.
Drop the pan as low as possible then pull the oil pump, and drive gear from the crank. You must remove the oil pump drive gear so that the cover will drop just enough as to not damage the head gasket.
 When installing use some gasket adhesive to hold the new front cover gaskets to the block and the headgasket up tight against the head. Then CAREFULLY put the front cover back in placebefore installing the oil pump drive gearand reassembling the rest of the accessories.
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Re: Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out?
« Reply #4 on: Mar 23, 2007, 09:26:31 PM »
If you are careful you can remove the front cover without removing the head and gasket.
Drop the pan as low as possible then pull the oil pump, and drive gear from the crank. You must remove the oil pump drive gear so that the cover will drop just enough as to not damage the head gasket.
 When installing use some gasket adhesive to hold the new front cover gaskets to the block and the headgasket up tight against the head. Then CAREFULLY put the front cover back in placebefore installing the oil pump drive gearand reassembling the rest of the accessories.

X2
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Jeffe 81 [OP]

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Re: Broke hard to reach bolt, how do I get it out?
« Reply #5 on: Mar 23, 2007, 10:39:07 PM »
I was hoping to avoid pulling the cover, but if its worth the hassle I'll do it.  Thanks for the help everyone!
'81 with Marlin transmission and 1600 non ceramic clutch, Tri-Y Doug Thorley Headers, Weber 38

Jeffe 81 [OP]

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If you are careful you can remove the front cover without removing the head and gasket.
Drop the pan as low as possible then pull the oil pump, and drive gear from the crank. You must remove the oil pump drive gear so that the cover will drop just enough as to not damage the head gasket.
 When installing use some gasket adhesive to hold the new front cover gaskets to the block and the headgasket up tight against the head. Then CAREFULLY put the front cover back in placebefore installing the oil pump drive gearand reassembling the rest of the accessories.

OK, so I tried to get the bolt out without removing the timing cover, but no luck.  When putting the timing cover back on, should I put RTV on the entire top of the timing cover where it meets the head gasket?  Also, if the head gasket droops down off the head, should I put RTV between the head and head gasket in the timing chain area?
'81 with Marlin transmission and 1600 non ceramic clutch, Tri-Y Doug Thorley Headers, Weber 38

Gittinit

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OK, so I tried to get the bolt out without removing the timing cover, but no luck.  When putting the timing cover back on, should I put RTV on the entire top of the timing cover where it meets the head gasket?  Also, if the head gasket droops down off the head, should I put RTV between the head and head gasket in the timing chain area?
Clean the surfaces really whell , use some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and get all the residue off the surfaces. Then use some gasket adhesive(which is different than rvt) to stich the head gasket back to the head around the front cover area. RVT dosent stick well to the head gasket in my experience.
 :twocents:
Hug your kids, pray for a soldier, and don't sweat the small stuff.

my favorite places:
http://www.flatnasty.net/
http://www.orvpark.com/

– fortysixandtwo – sorry, i prefer marlin because aside from gittinit, no one is a know it all a hole

Jeffe 81 [OP]

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Thanks for the advice!  I'm starting this project tomarrow and I'll keep you posted.  I changed my timing chain a year and a half ago, so I'm hoping the cover won't be on there too tight!     :crossed:
'81 with Marlin transmission and 1600 non ceramic clutch, Tri-Y Doug Thorley Headers, Weber 38

 
 
 
 
 

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