Topic: Another 22RE ticking thread

[Addicted Offroad]

Been reading and searching for the last two hours and read a lot of good info. I just adjusted the valves today and now its even worse than it was. Sounds like a damn diesel.

The motor had around 1000 miles on it when I bought the 4runner. Its been ticking since I bought it though, but steadily got worse.

Here is what I know about the motor:
New crank and bearings, rods resized. Toyota crank & clevite bearings
New oil pump. It now has around 7000mi on it.

The PO told me that he didn't go through the head at all. It showed no signs of wear in the head, or anywhere else. Still doesn't. For the most part it runs great, but the ticking has gotten worse. I checked the timing chain today and everything seemed fine. I also adjusted the valves to spec at .008 and .012. Seems that it got a little louder after that. Also, before the adjustment all of the valves were a little tighter than spec. I also checked the adjuster screws and they must have been replaced when the motor was rebuilt.

Just trying to figure this out. Seems that the valves were too tight initially, and that now they are louder at spec adjustments. Should I go slightly tight at say .006 and .010???

So give me some suggestions......

[RRMike]

How much drag are you putting on the feeler?  I posted up a ticking thread around here somewhere that I'm finding to post the fix.  I had the same exact thing happen.  Then I took it to a Toy guru I know and he adjusted them and I felt how much drag he was putting on the feeler gauge and it was way more than I was.  Now it doesn't tick.

[Addicted Offroad [OP]]

How much drag are you putting on the feeler?  I posted up a ticking thread around here somewhere that I'm finding to post the fix.  I had the same exact thing happen.  Then I took it to a Toy guru I know and he adjusted them and I felt how much drag he was putting on the feeler gauge and it was way more than I was.  Now it doesn't tick.

I tried it a couple of different times. light, medium, and then a good amount of drag. I'm at the point where I just said screw it. I'll install a bigger amp, and turn the radio up.

[RRMike]

Take it to somebody who knows what they're doing.  Ask around if you don't know who that guy is.  I paid $20 to find out that I missed one of mine and have it fixed.  I was so happy.  I was in the same boat too.  Frustrated and saying "screw it I'm gonna drive it until it breaks."   

[hiluxtrux]

You said you inspected the adjuster screws, but did you look at the valve tips?  High mileage valves can be cupped by the scraping action of the adjusters.  End of the valve you can see with the cover off, not the big end.  This will make the valve end cupped, giving you a false reading with the feeler gauge.  On an engine with this condition you need to use a dial indicator to measure the true valve lash.  just bolt the indicator to a solid place on the head and make sure the plunger is directly in line with valve you are measuring.  I know it is a pain in the rear compared to the feeler gauge, but if you do it right, you will adjust the valve lash VERY precisely.  good luck!

[mickeyfinn]

You said you inspected the adjuster screws, but did you look at the valve tips?  High mileage valves can be cupped by the scraping action of the adjusters.  End of the valve you can see with the cover off, not the big end.  This will make the valve end cupped, giving you a false reading with the feeler gauge.  On an engine with this condition you need to use a dial indicator to measure the true valve lash.  just bolt the indicator to a solid place on the head and make sure the plunger is directly in line with valve you are measuring.  I know it is a pain in the rear compared to the feeler gauge, but if you do it right, you will adjust the valve lash VERY precisely.  good luck!

i agree completly. this is a high performance type of adjustment. we use dial indicators to adjust all the Porsches at the shop. it is important that you have the cam set at base circle for this adjustment. sometimes you can check your adjustment on the cam side. some BMW's are set on the cam side. i would try it at the 8 and 12 first and see how it sounds. make sure you do all your adjustment with engine at operating temp.