Topic: and the build begins

[dieselsmoke]

by the way those are 31's I was going to run 33 and hope it would still be legal but it would be tooooo high so I said to hell with it and I have decided to run 35x16x15 on 15x12 wheels
I'm going to get the mickey thompson classic II wheels with the super swamper tsl boggers
tim said that when I put the 2" add a leafs in we will have to make the torque rod longer
we still have to do the rear and we are working on a traction bar as well, it will go from the top of the third member to the rear of the crossmember just behind the cab, the gas tank is out and it's not going back where it was it will be mounted in a box on the bed as will my dual batteries in seperate boxes

[MiniSimp]

Good start.
Lose the torque rod, lift your transfer case about 3" and belly pan it. You've got pleanty of room.

[hudlenutz]

I'm going to second the drivetrain lift.  As long as you've got a 3" body lift, and your in there re-doing the drivetrain a few times, ditch the stock x-member, and lift everything up to the body.  I bet it would help when trying to drag your rig through the mud. 

belly pan it

  You could even put a sheet of polycarbonate under there (think nalgene bottles), and slide it over the mud, just like skipping a rock.    


When I think mud, I always think electric fan with manual override to keep the fan from eating stuff it shouldn't, and drive flanges (they keep the mud out of all that nice expensive stuff).
Sweet build.. looks like you've got a great place to wrench.

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

thought I would throw this pic in, I rolled my boys go cart in the yard

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

well I spent yet another 500 on the beast today, got my flip kits and rock sliders comming from marlin, and I found the add a leafs on www.suspensionconnection.com for 45.00 a set so I got 2 pair of those comming as well, get this the 2" and the 3" were the same price.... the 2" were short and flat, I didn't thing that would give me much lift, but the 3" were long and had quite an impressive arch, so if you haven't guessed yet I got the 3" add a leafs for all four corners, like I said before if its going to be a little to high it might as well be a lot to high,

also had a bit of luck today I got another solid axle I'm not sure what it is yet but it has open knuckles and ball joints, right hand drive the ball joints tell me that it's a ford axle but the right drive is strange because most all fords with solid axles have left drive, got to show it to the 4xguru he will know exactly what it is, I'm thinking Dana 44 or 50

got my inclinometer in today, that was a steal on ebay 75 + 13 s/h and it came packed in a dash mat that wasn't even mentioned in the auction, and it's grey to boot

also got my vented rotors another steal on ebay, get this www.jtoutfitters.com sells the pair for 80.00 on thier site.... had them listed for 49.95 starting bid 18.53 s/h but that don't count so I'm thinking why in the hell should I pay 80 when I could get them for 50 duh.... nobody else bid

my boss has submitted the paper work for my bonus so that should be here in about spring.... I'm thinking marlin 4:88 electric locker for the rear

[89 toy]

ditch the torque rod for shure you dont need it and dont forget to plate the frame for the steering box.

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

what are you talking about " plate the frame " for the steering box, please post some pic's, I used the ifs box mount from marlin and it looked good, is their a weak spot that really needs to be reinforced,

[89 toy]

i dont have any pics but you need to plate both sides of the frame where the box mounts the bolts will pull through the frame from the extra force aplyed by using crossover. if you do a search you should find a pic.

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

I found some pics of the frame plating so it is going to get done, got my rock sliders, flip kits and add a leafs in so those will be going on soon, I also have the brackets comming for the rear disc brake conversion, found that in this forum, real sweet uses the front solid axle calipers and rotors, I'm going to see if I can use the vented rotors and ifs calipers, I have a new set of vented rotors now so I will post the results with pics, I haven't been able to work on it much lately, been waiting on parts and it's at my friends house about an hour away,

no thats not my garage although it is a sweet place to wrench, I'm going to take some vacation time so I can get er done,

I have loads of work to do to it when it comes home, because I get to take it apart again so I can sand blast and paint everything, so far I have grabber green for the frame I was thinking about different colors for the springs and axles

I figure the mud will wash off a painted surface easier than a bare frame

I was also thinking about the barber pole driveshaft paint job

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

I got a chance to look at that solid axle in the daylight, turns out it's gm 10 bolt I'm going to pull the cover to see what gear is in it and offer it for sale, the only thing I say wrong was 1 of the "j" arm bolts is broke off and the other 2 were cut off the arm is not there and 1 caliper is also missing, it is an open differential and the hubs work, I'm also going to measure the width of the spring perches

[6.72:1]

I see you are in for the long haul!

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

I got my rear disk brake brackets in so they will be going on soon, for you guys and gals that want rear disk brakes get with techtafab

uses factory Yoda parts, makes for a mega cheep conversion cause we all have extra Yoda parts not to mention solid mount 4 piston calipers can you say stop fast too late lol

I will post more pics soon

[nu106]

You might want to move your steering box foward about 4 inches...
Looks like you have the tierod and drag link crossed up , your gonna hit em.
They should be as parallel as possible..

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

that would mean I would have to cut a hole in my front clip ( radiator support ) for the end of the steering box to stick through,

I'm not sure if I can do that anyway because if I move the steering box forward the pitman arm will end up hitting the crossmember.

I still have to put the 3" add a leafs in so that will give me more lift/clearance

I don't think this is going to be a problem but I will check it out and if it is a problem it will be delt with accordingly

I have 1 set of ifs calipers on the way and I'm working on getting the second set then all I will need to finish the truck is shocks, wheels and tires

I still have to install the sliders, flip kits, add a leafs, frame work for the flatbed/rollbar and lift the rear, I figure I will take some vacation time the end of Feb, I still have to get with Tim to see if thats good for him

we were waiting to get the front finished before we did the rear that way I wont have to put blocks in to have it sit right

I have already located a divorced NP205 transfer case for the beast 175.00 and have a contact for the NV4500 for 900.00 plus s/h and I'm looking for a pair of Dana 60'S but all thats for the 3rd drivetrain

I have decided to go with the dual t/case to go behind the w56 with the 5.0 because that will all go in the 91 but I will probably swap that out for a r151 when it goes in the 91

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

I got my vacation so from 2-18 to 2-26 I hope to get everything finished and bring my heap home, I looked at the steering box the other day and I don't think its going to be a problem I jacked up the front left and had both tires off the ground and still had clearance

get this Tim had a jeep over for some work, he put Detroit lockers and chroma axles in it anyway the jeep had 36S on it and he rolled one over to my truck and jacked it up to center the hub and he told me that not only would they fit but they looked good and we haven't put the 3" add a leafs in yet so I'm thinkin 38S ?

I got a price on the 35" baggers with 10" wheels of 1880.00 the 36S would be like 2400.00 with 12" wheels, I know one thing it is going to look like crap with the 31S that are on it now but I only paid 150.00 for those wheels and tires so they will go in the 91

[alwayzbroken]

I would recommend looking at other people's builds to see what actually works. There seems to be a general formula for building a Toyota that works. Every piece of the vehicle building process has been covered in great detail on this site such as the front axle and the best way to prep them for offroad such as the chopping of the torque rod. The bronze bushings confuse me and the whole add a leaf thing confuses me. There are so many better ways to lift a truck than by using add a leafs. I don't mean to be harsh but I would like to point out a few things before you get too far. Unless you accomplish your goal of having zero flex that steering box is gonna need to be moved forward. You are going to have a bodylift so you won't have to cut much of the body at all to get that box forward the 4 inches it needs to go. That truck is gonna ride so stiff you are gonna go through the windshield the first time you hit a rut from a 40" "bagger" with your 33s. I wouldn't bother with anything smaller than a 36 for mudding either. Everybody has 35s or bigger around the mud bogs so unless you want to get buried in the ruts from everybody else's big tires you will need to go bigger or at least the same size. You can run 33s with a stock IFS truck that has as much flex as yours is gonna. Why bother with a full on build up if the finished truck isn't gonna flex and is only gonna run small tires? You might as well save yourself the time and effort and just beat on a stock IFS truck. A little punctuation also goes a long way beyond using a comma in place of a period.

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

first let me say that I am going to run bigger tires, I haven't decided exactly what size yet but Tim told me that the 36's would fit and looked good. However the front clip isn't back on yet, as for the use of the add a leafs I'm going with a v8 swap so yeah it will ride rough till I put the extra weight in. And as far as the torque rod goes it's bolted in so in about 5 minutes it can be gone. By the way I'm not going for flex thankyou this truck will be a daily driver so I didn't want to have to fight to keep the truck on the road, besides if they don't work or I don't like how it rides I can change them, what a concept. As for the steering box I plan on plating the frame and will see if or how far it can be moved I looked at the steering linkage and it's really not that bad, it was more the angle that the picture was taken I could stand to move it about 2 inches but I have to make sure the pitman arm clears the crossmember. Besides that I already have a NP205 divorced t/case and I'm looking for a pair of Dana 70 axles. Make no mistake when my truck is done it will be nothing less than the , but it's all good, got nothin but love for ya

[6.72:1]

Dana 70? Holy axle Batman!

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

yeah I figured what the hell, dodge used a Dana 70 front and that is a right side diff I have a few rears that I'm looking at. I would like to find a ford rear with disk brakes from a later model truck or van because they have the parking brake inside the rotors. Right now I'm just stoked because week after next I get to go work on it some more and if the good lord's willing and it don't rain by the weekend after my vacation it will be back home.

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

got some more pic's but can't get then to load, got a dana 60 rear and found out some interesting information about the dana 70, so I hope to have a pair of them soon and if I can't find a 70 front then I might have to settle for a 60. I have to go out of town again, I get to go to hydraulic school. lets see 3 days without work and with pay plus expenses

as for an update on the truck we got the rear set up, had to rig a redneck slip yoke for the front driveshaft, I didn't want to spend money on something that will need replaced when the dual cases go in

[dieselsmoke [OP]]

I got that new ifs box mount from marlin, and a bunch of other goodies. I had a hard time finding this post and started the build continues

[AaronB]