Author Topic: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.  (Read 3291 times)

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Huntr Pat

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Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« on: Apr 06, 2018, 11:44:29 AM »
My 1982 build I'm not a hardcore crawler but want it mainly for street use local driving and back country driving for hunting. Its completely stock. I'm thinking 31 " tires on stock wheels. was trying to find  web sight that show me what I can get away with as far as tires on stock wheels. Don't want to go to big to rob HP out of the engine.
What are the Advantages and disadvantages to lockers? Arb lockers.
Would not mind lifting but I don't think need to lift it to accommodate those size tires.
« Last Edit: Apr 06, 2018, 12:03:43 PM by Huntr Pat »

Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing
« Reply #1 on: Apr 06, 2018, 11:49:41 AM »
Thinking 3-4" lift but don't like it stiff bouncee ride.
looking for some Armor/rock sliders?

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #2 on: Apr 06, 2018, 12:03:03 PM »
If you're gears are 4.37, 31's will work but you will probably lose some power.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
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Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #3 on: Apr 06, 2018, 12:06:38 PM »
So is it better to go higher like 4:70's etc,. 4:89's?
31's isn't that big tire size.

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #4 on: Apr 06, 2018, 01:12:07 PM »
So is it better to go higher like 4:70's etc,. 4:89's?
31's isn't that big tire size.


31s will be fine. I run 31s on 15x8 steel rims, stock 4.10:1 gears. My worn out 300,000 mile 22R did pretty good until it overheated to death trying to bump stuff with no lockers :smack:

I think you're mixing in transfer case gears. stock transfer case gears are 2.28:1 but a common upgrade is 4.70:1. The low range transfer case gears only matter when you're in low range. For your use, the stock 2.28 gears are perfect so don't worry about 2.28:1 vs 4.70:1

Common Toyota axle gears are 3.90:1, 4.10:1, 4.30:1, 4.56:1, 4.88:1, 5.28:1, and 5.71:1. Here is an excerpt from the Marlin Crawler store, on the ring and pinion page.

"Looking to change your Ring & Pinion ratio & are unsure what to use? Factors include how much stop-and-go, flat highway, or mountain use your truck sees. In generally, 33" tires go well with 4.56:1 or 4.88:1, 35" tires go well with 4.88:1 or 5.29:1, and 37" tires or larger go well with 5.29:1. We do carry a 5.71:1 ratio for certain applications, however it is weak and is typically not recommended."

How worn out is your engine? How responsive do you like your truck? If you really wanted to, you could regear to 4.56:1 but it shouldn't be necessary.

As for lockers, lockers are good. They have pretty hefty buy ins, but they can be well worth it. If you want to run ARB lockers, you'd have to invest and plumb onboard air. If you wanted to run Toyota electric lockers, you'd have to modify the axle housing. Auto lockers don't require anything special. They lock up when torque is applied, which can make cornering and parking lot driving a bit awkward but you would learn to "drive with the throttle". If you're just doing fire road driving you don't really need a locker, but I'll say with a decent offroad tire and a locker, these toyotas turn into scrappy little mountain goats.
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Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #5 on: Apr 06, 2018, 01:51:46 PM »
Thanks that is alot of good information.
31"  BFG AT K2 is what I'm looking at. i do like  great traction.My tacoma has  not let me down I been on some steep loose dirt situation. But My wife done want me to wheel in here truck. So I have this 82 I want to wheel in but use as a daily driver.

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #6 on: Apr 06, 2018, 05:32:59 PM »
I'm thinking 31 " tires on stock wheels. was trying to find  web sight that show me what I can get away with as far as tires on stock wheels.......Would not mind lifting but I don't think need to lift it to accommodate those size tires.
31's will fit w/o needing a lift, can actually squeeze 33's on them w/the right back spacing.
Quote
Don't want to go to big to rob HP out of the engine.
31's are 10% bigger than the 28's, so you will feel the loss in performance on the highway, and any grades you climb will likely have to be in the next lower gear.  Most will live with the power loss, though if you haul a lot of weight or tow anything with it, you will want to regear to 4.56's, which is the factory gear set Toyota used for 31's and manual trans, if you have an automatic you will want to go with 4.88's.  You can usually find used oem diffs('89-'95) for about $2-300, or around $600 for diffs out of 1st gen Tacoma's and 3rd gen 4Runners with gears and an e-locker, though those are more than a bolt inswap.

Quote
What are the Advantages and disadvantages to lockers? Arb lockers.
Advantage is increased traction, the con depends on if you go auto-locker or selectable.  Auto lockers don't have the greatest street manners, tend to wear tires out faster, and can be a bit exciting on icy or snowy roads.  The only con for selectable lockers is their additional cost, however unlike an auto locker, when not engaged they operate like an open differential.


 
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #7 on: Apr 09, 2018, 07:25:35 AM »
You will not regret some sort of lockers.  I would start with running the 31s with the stock gears, see if the truck meets your needs as far as drivability before you swap gears.  Then I would certainly install some kind of locker in the rear.  It makes a world of difference, enough that even is you choose an auto locker it will be worth it.  You will be able to cleanly drive up stuff you previously would have been hacking on it to wheel up.
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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #8 on: Apr 09, 2018, 08:01:13 AM »
If you plan to do anything other than drive on the street I highly recommend a rear locker. There's a guy in the for sale section with a 4.10 already locked for cheap. I had more fun wheeling my 80 with nothing more than a locked rear and 31"tires than I do with it built.
83 long bed 2wd sas, 3rz, w56, duals with 4.7 rear, 4.88 elock front, spartan rear, 39.5 iroks
01 double cab hunting truck
06 tacoma street truck

Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #9 on: Apr 23, 2018, 12:18:11 PM »
Took the Camper shell off, removed the running boards. getting ready to have the bed linex but have some rust spots to take care of 1st. Horn switch was bad got that fixed. Long Bed
 
« Last Edit: Apr 23, 2018, 12:27:56 PM by Huntr Pat »

Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #10 on: Apr 23, 2018, 12:46:34 PM »
Wanted to put 31" tire's but not sure if they fit on stock wheels.

H8PVMNT

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #11 on: Apr 23, 2018, 12:58:20 PM »
Those white ones are 5.5" wide I think.  The tire shop won't like it much but it's been done and they will be OK.
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
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Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #12 on: Apr 23, 2018, 01:39:58 PM »
yeah kinda spindly may just replace just to be safe I want to do some wheeling little rock crawling.
« Last Edit: Apr 23, 2018, 02:16:53 PM by Huntr Pat »

H8PVMNT

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #13 on: Apr 23, 2018, 02:22:21 PM »
Having too skinny of rims actually works like a poor man's beadlock for low pressure.  You would be fine to run 8" wide wheels though.  I have a set of those wheels in 15x8 you posted there and they are OK.  I use them for 35x12.50s. 
“I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth.”
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"I plan to hit 300k in this truck"  :)bestgen4runner

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Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #14 on: Apr 23, 2018, 02:35:07 PM »
On Sale for about $50 ea. trying to keep cost manageable. I under stand they fit. But the ground clearance is pretty low so I may do a 3-4"  lift. I just don't want a simple lift kit. Been reading on how some of the lift articulates. I'd like to see this truck do well in most places giving its long wheel base. I rather put the money in rear lockers maybe like Arb air lockers.
 

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #15 on: Apr 23, 2018, 02:39:39 PM »
You would likely need a mild lift, but my 85 Truck with 22R handled 32x11.50 BFG KMs in Colorado with the stock 4.10 gearing. 33s forced my to go to 4.88 gears that are in my current 4Runner with 35s.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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blackdiamond

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1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

Huntr Pat [OP]

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Re: Trying to understand gearing/lockers.
« Reply #17 on: Apr 23, 2018, 03:05:14 PM »
chk them out I need 6 on 5.5 they didn't have them available. How much of a weight differ from steel to Alum.

 
 
 
 
 

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