Author Topic: What build first??? Help!!!!  (Read 1163 times)

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vmsrod

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What build first??? Help!!!!
« on: Nov 15, 2015, 07:26:53 PM »
Hello everyone I want to build my own rig and I'm debating on what to work on first. I have a 1983 Toyota Pickup 4x4, it has a rebuilt 22r with new pistons and head, I have a Weber 32/36 that I haven't installed but eventually will, it's rolling on 32/11.50R15 with stock height. I'm taking it off roading but nothing to extreme. I want to know what you guys start off when building, I don't know if I want to lift it or work on some axles. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks!!!


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Snowtoy

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Re: What build first??? Help!!!!
« Reply #1 on: Nov 15, 2015, 09:56:15 PM »
Start with the basics, rock sliders to protect the cab, solid front and rear bumpers, recovery points front and rear, recovery strap(not chain), hi-lift jack, air system and tank(reseat tire beads), place to store it all and tools for making trail side repairs.  After that just wheel it with the 32's and open diffs until the tires are due for replacement, maybe bump up to 33's if the 32's are more highway biased at the moment.  At that point you should have an idea of you what type of wheeling you want to do, and build it to fit your needs.

If funds aren't limited right now, I would consider either a single transfercase with 4.70 gears, or dual cases, being able to control your approach/descent speed will make it a lot easier on you and your rig.
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

blackdiamond

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Re: What build first??? Help!!!!
« Reply #2 on: Nov 15, 2015, 10:45:14 PM »
A single 4.70:1 transfer case is the best bang for the buck mod to give you control off road. Depending on where you wheel you can do a lot with a solid rear bumper.  I would go rear bumper first, sliders second, and the. A front bumper when it comes to protection.  If you shorten the bed that is a super functional mod off road.

I had a carb 85 truck on 32s and did a lot with nothing other than a mild lift. 33s crossed the line with stoc 4.10 differential gears on the street, but I was in Colorado so you may have a little more hp to work with.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

vmsrod [OP]

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Re: What build first??? Help!!!!
« Reply #3 on: Nov 16, 2015, 10:05:30 AM »
What about my stock differentials? I heard the late models slip.


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blackdiamond

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Re: What build first??? Help!!!!
« Reply #4 on: Nov 16, 2015, 11:40:41 AM »
What about my stock differentials? I heard the late models slip.


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I'm not sure I know what you mean by slip.

I run mechanical lockers because I wanted maximum reliability.  I have a Detroit locker in the rear and an Aussie locker in the front.  I don't recommend a full locker in the front without upgrading the front axles.  I have the original Longfield 30-spline birfields and inner axles along with the upgraded hub gear.  This stuff is sold by RCV now, I believe.  I ran a Detroit TrueTrac in the front when I had stock axles and with my "easy" driving style I never had any reliability issue with the limited-slip in the front.

The choice between mechanical and selectable lockers is all about personal preference and how you use the rig on the street.  I've run with the Detroit Locker in the rear since about 2003 and my rig was a daily driver until about 2004.  I've never really had an issue with it on the street.  It does some strange things that you just get used to dealing with.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved