Topic: Delay during cold start up.

[jssgbsn]

Hopefully this is an easy question for all you pros out there.

I have a 'long' hesitation (10s or more) during a 'cold' start up.  (meaning it's been sitting overnight or longer).

So..... my 85 runner, 22RE, is developing an elongated hesitation to start up while 'cold'.

If my truck has been sitting overnight (or longer) it has been taking about 10sec or longer to finally kick over. 
   ~ Turn key, starter is running for a good 10sec, let go of everything (turn key to off), try again for a few seconds and eventually the engine 'catches', turns over and runs.

Once it is running (a few minutse\miles of driving - or longer) it will start up right away everytime.

The long hesitation only happens during a 'cold' start.

Battery and starter is fine since it grinds out until finally starting.
I'm gonna change the oil just in case it is super 'sludgy' and making it harder to start (i doubt this is the issue).

The only thing I can think of is a fuel 'issue'.

First thought is the fuel filter.  Second would be injectors. Third would be fuel pump (since I cant imagine what next would be the issue).

Any insight?

Start-up hesitation only happens at 'cold' start (sitting overnight or longer).  Once it finally 'catches' and 'runs/drives' it will start up 'instantly' (meaning i turn the key and within 1sec the engine turns over).

[emsvitil]

Your losing pressure in the fuel injection system, so it takes awhile to pressurize the system.

There's a fuel injection check connector you need to jump.      Then turn key on, listen for hum,   then try starting.   (do this when you normally have problem)


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

[OVRAROK]

Sounds like your cold start injector isn't working properly, check connection, you can also pull out of intake a make sure fuel is coming out at cold start

[emsvitil]

Sounds like your cold start injector isn't working properly, check connection, you can also pull out of intake a make sure fuel is coming out at cold start

Rather than the cold start injector (if my first post isn't the problem)  it would probably be the cold start injector timer


http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50178.msg626655#msg626655

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Thanks for the stuff to look at first.  Im just glad it will 'eventually' turn over for now till i get time to check the fuel injector(s).

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Rather than the cold start injector (if my first post isn't the problem)  it would probably be the cold start injector timer


http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50178.msg626655#msg626655

Sooo....I am uploading from a PC that I do not have the same pic resizing ability.  I may not be able to post pics for a bit.

However, after looking at the FP Connector Jump on 4Crawler it appears I have the same connector (based on wire colors - Orange/Black and Green/Red - 1st color is the wire, 2nd color is the dash) but it is sitting open and loose not connected to anything.  I have looked around and I cannot find anything for the connector to go into so I am not sure what is going on there but...

I jump the connector anyway.  I heard the fuel pump engage (humm) while in the ON position so i am pretty certain is was the correct connector.  I also saw an improvement udring start up.  I still had to turn the key a few times to start but it is starting much quicker.

Gonna start looking into the CS Injector and Timer.   Its dark out and the mosquitos havent gone dormant where i am at so I might need to wait until  tomorrow.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Rather than the cold start injector (if my first post isn't the problem)  it would probably be the cold start injector timer


http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=50178.msg626655#msg626655

I havent gotten around to any more testing yet (house hunting is keeping me busy).

But been doing research.

I looked at your photobucket.  I figured i would just clean the brass post, but I see you seperated the entire sensor.  I don't wanna break it on accident.  Would you tell me how you seperated the sensor to get at the internals?  I am envisioning myself pulling/twisting or something and then cracking the plastic plug.

[emsvitil]

I havent gotten around to any more testing yet (house hunting is keeping me busy).

But been doing research.

I looked at your photobucket.  I figured i would just clean the brass post, but I see you seperated the entire sensor.  I don't wanna break it on accident.  Would you tell me how you seperated the sensor to get at the internals?  I am envisioning myself pulling/twisting or something and then cracking the plastic plug.

Been awhile...........

I used some combination of screwdrivers, small chisels, needle nose pliers and a dremel to uncrimp it.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Been awhile...........

I used some combination of screwdrivers, small chisels, needle nose pliers and a dremel to uncrimp it.

Gotcha, I guess if I dive in that hard I'll just be preared to buy a new one.  Knowing me I'll prob thrash something accidentally Thx.

[jssgbsn [OP]]

Update:  I was inspecting the CS Injector connector and wires.  The plug is facing up (not sure it should be).  The wires are basically bent straight down under tension coming out of the connector.  Not sure if the CS Injector was worked on in the past and put back in 'upside down' or the wiring was bad and somebody snipped wires too close to fix, but since they got it to function just left the wires tight and moved on.

After jiggling/testing the integrity of the wires at night, the next morning when trying to start my battery ran outta juice fairly quickly.  After jumping it and driving to work I noticed my Volt Gauge was reading about 6V (well below the half mark on the gauge) instead of about 12V.  The engine would prediocically 'flutter' with stalling symptoms (the first symptoms of actually running outta gas if that makes sense).  That flutter typically happend once I approached 2,000 RPM or above, I'm guessing from engine vibration.  It also happened when truck was at low RPM in too high a gear.  The flutter would also happen (sometimes more severly based on electrical load) if I turned on my lights/AC/etc.  The flutter would also drop the V Gauge at the same rythym.  If I turned on turn signals the RPM's and V Gauge would dip at the exact same interval.

Never experienced an electrical problem (in any vehicle besides a dead battery) before but I am assuming when I jiggled/inspected the wires/connector for the CS injector I forced somekinda of a short, or maybe pushed an exposed wires close to something metal that would touch while driving, and maybe leech or draw unnecessary V from battery (not sure that is possible, just an educated guess).

After work, no surprise battery was dead.  Before jumping I jiggled the wires again.  Jumped right up, drove home, did not experience any of the above systems at all.  Even turned everything on to force it to happen.  Drove at about 12V the whole time and it drop slightly under full load but nothing at or below the 'half' mark on the V Gauge.

Unfortunately I am moving this whole weekkend and week and I don;t wanna tear into it until after I move, but....

I am pretty certain something is wrong with the wires or connector causing the short and my CS Injector problems.


Based on the above, any new opinions or do you guys think I am on the right track with my thinking? 


Also, I can barely tell where the CS Injector wires go to under all my vacuum hoes/etc.  If I have to replace/splice/service the wiring itself is it gonna be a situation where I need to removed the Plenum/Throttle Body/Intake/etc just to 1.) find the issue and 2.) fix the issue?  I can upload a pic of the connector (facing 'up') and wires under tension if somebody wants to see it. 

Thx again for all the help I have already got