Topic: 1KZ swap

[LJ70]

I have a 2L-T in my 1989 LJ70 and it has 300,000km on it. The performance off road is just fine. Highway performance is terrible. Everyone behind me gets pissed eating my diesel smog and my 40- 45mph top speed gong up a 4% grade.

I am strongly considering swapping in a 1KZ and am curious if anyone has done this swap. I have an R151 transmission and am curious what issues I may be up against, motor mounts, trans mounts, ECU,  electrical or otherwise.

Thanks,
Don

[helipilot77]

I swapped one into a 22-re 4runner. If I were you I would swap the 1KZ-te to a manual pump body from a Mitsubishi 4M-40 motor that way you wouldn't have to deal with the wiring. You may be able to use some of the throttle brackets off your current motor. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have.

[LJ70 [OP]]

Helipilot,

Thanks for the reply and offer to lend assistance (sorry about the late reply).  So here comes the questions..

Did you initially run the ECU or did you go straight at the Mitsu Injector Pump?

Where did you source the Mitsu 4M-40 injector pump?

If one were to initially run the ECU, do you know of any forums/ info sources on 1KZ ECU wiring that need to be addressed?
I have'n't been able to find anything.
 
You have a 4Runner, I have an LJ70, was there any issue with the motor mounts? I believe mine (2L-T) are the same as the 22RE.

Did you keep the Air Conditioning from the 1KZ or toss it?

Did you retain the 4Runner Radiator or need a different radiator for the 1KZ?

Thanks again for your time.
Regards,
Don

[helipilot77]

Did you initially run the ECU or did you go straight at the Mitsu Injector Pump?
I am still running the ECU but may ditch it if I can figure out the manual pump conversion
Where did you source the Mitsu 4M-40 injector pump?
Littlesteve found one for me in England and is have his pump guy tune it for the KZ
If one were to initially run the ECU, do you know of any forums/ info sources on 1KZ ECU wiring that need to be addressed?

I haven't been able to find anything.
 there used to be a forum called Toyotadieselmadness.com but it was purchased by a shop in Texas (Diesel Toys) that specializes in these conversions. Shortly after it was shut down. I think they didn't want their secrets getting out. Fortunately for you I have done all the research and downloaded all the diagrams I could find. I'll put a file together for you and put on Dropbox then I'll PM you the link. 
You have a 4Runner, I have an LJ70, was there any issue with the motor mounts? I believe mine (2L-T) are the same as the 22RE.
I had to redo my motor mounts and I ended up putting them a bit too high so I will be lowering them before the motor goes back in.
Did you keep the Air Conditioning from the 1KZ or toss it?
I kept the air conditioning. My 4Runner came with it from the factory so I wanted to retain it. I used a Dakota Digital SGI8 tach adapter that I believe is sending the wrong signal to the control unit, so it hasent worked since I put the motor in.
Did you retain the 4Runner Radiator or need a different radiator for the 1KZ?
I ran the 1KZ-te Prado radiator for a few years but anytime I would go up a mountain pass it would start to heat up. There is a eBay radiator that I bought which I would highly recommend.

[LJ70 [OP]]

Helipilot,
Thanks again for the detailed response. I have been in training with work this week, so I have been slow to respond. I am hoping start this project soon and you addressed most of my concerns. I hope to PM you some time this week if you are available. Thanks again. Don

[helipilot77]

Here is the link to the radiator I bought. They ship worldwide for free. It easily bolted right in with a little notching to the hood brace to clear the radiator cap.
http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-Hilux-surf-KZN130-1KZ-TE-Aluminum-Radiator-/170934795765?nav=SEARCH

[cavey]

I converted my 89 LN106 Hilux  from a 3L  2.8 diesel to a 1KZ-T< I bought a 1KZ-TE engine minus the ECU from a wrecked 2005 Hilux , and gave a diesel shop the 3L pump with a boost compensator fitted, because the 3L had a 2LT turbo, to convert to a 1KZ-T pump   which cost AUD $3000  of which $1000 to overhaul the pump, $1000 for the Distributive Head ( the steel block that the injector pipes connect to ) and the rest for other parts and labour to set the pump up   the Distributive Head was new and came from Singapore, first one into australia the part number for the 1KZ-t pump is 22100-67060 and for the 1KZ-TE pump is 22100-67070 , you can covert the TE pump back to a T pump but you would need a boost compensator  also, about $400 AUD 
 I had to make new engine mounts to bolt to the block as there was about 60mm /2 1/4" difference between a 3L and a 1KZ-T and although the rubber engine mounts look the same between a L series engine and a 1KZ  the bolt hole spacing  where the mount bolts to the chassis is slightly different and the bolts wont fit 

[helipilot77]

How do you like how your pump turned out? Do you feel like it was worth converting to mechanical?

[cavey]

Its a bit hard to say as I havent driven a TE but otherwise very happy with the conversion  But with all the discussions on 1KZs cracking heads I changed the thermostat to a 72 deg one and made a sandwich plate to go under the oil filter to run an oil cooler  because I found with the turbo'd 3L towing a campertrailer on hills the oil temp would get to 116 deg Celsius  but now wont get over 96 deg C The truck weighs just over 2 ton and would get 24/25 mpg empty but towing 19mpg and with the 1KZ 22/23 mpg ang towing 19 mpg but with heaps more grunt  although I think the factory turbo is crap, below 2000 rpm the truck is gutless wore than a 2L ,  boost starts at 2000rpm  really gets going at 2300 rpm (10 psi )  and lasts to 3100 then the boost starts dropping off , but I think the snorkel and air cleaner pipes might be helping the problem as the are only 2 1/2"   so the next items are a new performance turbo ( at least 15 psi )  and a 3" snorkel 

[helipilot77]

I am currently putting a new head on mine. Didnt need it but wanted to be certain since I'm rebuilding it anyways and I wanted to switch to the newer flow design. I will be moving my thermostat to the upper radiator hose. The 1KZ has a built in oil cooler though. Did you feel that it wasn't doing enough? I also switched to a full size 3row all aluminum radiator, which made a huge difference.

[cavey]

I installed a ally 3 core radiator when I did the conversion its about 55mm thick, but I installed the remote oil cooler to ease the load on the cooling system , my line of thinking was if the oil is at 116 deg and it gets to the oil cooler in the block, the oil will give heat to the water as long as the water system pressure is below 11 psi ( by saturated steam tables steam and water at 11psi has a temperature of 116 deg , at 13 psi the temp is 118 deg )  so to ease the load on the cooling system I cooled the oil by a remote filter which then should either take heat out of the water when the oil gets back to the block oil cooler or both are at the same temperature so there is no transfer either way   
 a bloke at work had a Prado stock std with a 1KZ-TE  and he had a shack up the central highlands of Tasmania, which are approx 1000m above sea level  and he went to the shack towing a 6 x 4 box trailer about half full  and some of the road is quite steep ie 3rd gear with the trailer on, and he cracked the head, then let it cool down and got it to run and drove for another 20km  and then it died and wouldn't start, so he got it fixed with a new head and that lasted 12 months and exactly the same thing happened again so he fixed it again then traded it on a FJ Crusier     

[Tortilla The Hun]

Not trying to thread hijack but I have been following your guys build and have planned on building a 1kz runner for my rig as well. The info you guys have given is just awesome. I have a few ideas of how to keep the KZ cool so hopefully I don't have any head issues.  post 1/11

[cavey]

here are some pictures of my setup which I did in June 2013 the fan mod was the worst to nut out because the std fan wouldn't fit because the 1KZ is longer than the L series engine  so I originaly fitted a thermo fan and then did a trip to Ayres Rock  towing a camper trailer with 3 adults  and the water temp used to rise on hills  so the thermo fan was a waste of time , so I removed the mounting flange from the centre of the fan and made two sandwich plates to grip the fan and the front plate bolts to the fan clutch

[helipilot77]

I did something similar with mine except I just changed the oil in the fan clutch to a thicker weight so it would engage at a lower temperature but would still offer some acceleration and deceleration dampening.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.30

I also made a 3" turbo dump pipe