Author Topic: 85 p/u 22re HARD to start HOT or COLD! (Read 6487 times)

JPond53 · « **on:** Nov 24, 2012, 06:07:30 PM »

I recently got an 85 pickup SR5 4x4 22re project...My buddy and I have been working on it and so far we have changed the timing chain, guides, and tensioner, the o2 sensor, checked the valve clearances which are all good, all pistons have compression between 135-140, jumped the fuel pump relay to make sure the fuel pump works and it does, went up and down a gear on the distributor and that didn't help. One thing that I have noticed is that when we check the timing it runs like complete crap when set to 5* and thats about as retarded as we can get it so I run it advanced about 1/2-1/4 inch from the 12* so I can drive the thing without it being completely gutless. I've messed with the air/fuel screw countless times and the engine at idle seems to have a miss every so often. When revved up between 2000-3000 it runs fine. and runs fine with normal driving........does ANYONE have an idea of what could be going on? PLEASE HELP! I am out of ideas and have no idea what to do....Thanks!

tgmaul88 · « **Reply #1 on:** Nov 24, 2012, 07:47:44 PM »

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee218/KDXSR5/Hoses%20and%20such%20for%20Sweet%20Jane/HosesandwiresandsuchforSweetJane001.jpg

check your vacuum lines
and remove or plug off your egr a try those things and then look at the iac

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #2 on:** Nov 24, 2012, 11:04:33 PM »

You just did the timing chain make sure it is installed properly, even being off by one tooth will screw you.
Also check you sparkplug gap, you'd be surprised at what improperly gaped plugs will do, including running issues.

JPond53 · « **Reply #3 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 07:33:30 AM »

Sorry forgot to add that all spark plugs are gapped correctly as well...they are new along with new wires 8)

junya92toy · « **Reply #4 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 12:37:56 PM »

Well if you know its got proper fuel and spark, Id recheck the timing. Take it apart,, and turn the motor over by hand and watch the timing marks.
I have a v6, but the tensioner wasnt adjusted right, so the belt was loose, it would miss and wasnt idling well. So Id make sure thats not the case too

lone walker · « **Reply #5 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 02:00:04 PM »

Before jumping into conclusion, was your project working fine before you tore it apart?

JPond53 · « **Reply #6 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 04:13:01 PM »

@junya Timing is all good i've triple checked it and its all good. I just blew my started this morning because it has to crank over so much that it finally took a

. So I replaced it and then went to fire it and it hesitated so I jumped that fuel relay for shits and giggles and it fired right up..maybe a coincidence? I notice with out it jumped it the fuel pump doesn't hum but when it does it hums...

@v5e no it was running like

and actually didn't pass smog from too many HC's...and a guy I work with said to check out the timing chain etc. so I did and luckily it was SUPER loose and the guides and tensioner worn pretty good. So thats why I replaced that and as well checked all my valves. My mpg's were like 15-17 and then I failed smog once again so I changed my oxygen sensor and now it gets like 24mpg highway and street combined which I think is pretty good. Anything else I should check for? Fuel filter bad? Fuel pump bad? Injectors bad? Im up to fix anything at this point I want to get it running nice so I can start building it up like I wanted...

by the way thank you everyone for your help!

junya92toy · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 04:59:59 PM »

Can you just run it in the driveway and rev it up, and it will run like crap too? Or just under a load. ? If it runs like crap in the driveway, spray starting fluid right into the throttle body and if it runs good, then you def know its a fuel problem

fullwidthyotaon40 · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 08:38:42 PM »

If all your vacuum lines are routed correctly, no egr/vacuum modulator leaks, properly working idle air control valve, fuel pump checks out, (oem plugs/wires/dist/rotor work much better than aftermarket or atleast NGK's), check your fuel filter, air restrictions/vacuum leaks, and injectors! always a good idea to send them to witchunter for a rebuild if it's a project that has been sitting for some time. That is also assuming you have good compression. Also, when was the last time you checked the TPS?

JPond53 · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 09:22:37 PM »

@junya it doesn't really run like crap in either circumstances...it's just hard to start hot or cold maybe run a little weak right when it starts but only for literally a couple seconds.
@fullwidth I appreciate your post I will check all the the things you mentioned and my compression is between 135 and 140 on all cylinders. TPS= Throttle position sensor? Where and how do I check that? Thanks!

junya92toy · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 25, 2012, 09:43:47 PM »

cold start injector?

JPond53 · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 26, 2012, 03:45:02 PM »

I don't think its the cold start injector...I'm thinking its my injectors just being old and the fuel maybe evaporating from the cylinders and when I go to start it nothing is there to make a combustion?? New injectors from LC are like $200... :/

junya92toy · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 26, 2012, 04:42:10 PM »

Hum, no thats not how a car works. They continue to spray fuel in when you try to start it, and while its running., the cold start injector sprays even more fuel in to aid in starting when the engine is cold.

MORTALIZER · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 26, 2012, 04:50:11 PM »

chrisprojects · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 26, 2012, 09:25:07 PM »

fixed?

fullwidthyotaon40 · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 09:50:02 AM »

Yes, the throttle position sensor. Wrong idle readings would make the engine run terribly hot or cold. This is the best writeup there is for checking your TPS. They're easy to foul up if you ever sprayed throttle body cleaner without removing it and they just corrode over time, especially when just sitting: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
I would always rebuild the injectors, replace fuel filter, and flush your tank on something that has been sitting for an extended amount of time. Fuel injector rebuilding: http://witchhunter.com/ probably your problem. This guy does fuel injectors only and will provide you with flow charts before and after... for about $80 not to mention a quick turnaround. Hope this helps and be sure to post your results for others!

JPond53 · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 12:01:03 PM »

@junya I thought the cold start injector was for like REALLY cold climates? Like below freezing...
@fullwidth I will check out the TPS tonight and see what I can come up with. Im pretty sure the owner before me let it sit for a while because I am finding bee hives randomly throughout the truckl. So at one point i'm sure it sat making that TPS corrode! Thanks for the links by the way!

junya92toy · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 27, 2012, 12:16:31 PM »

http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/toyefi.htm

JPond53 · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 28, 2012, 04:59:07 PM »

Okay the TPS is good...what my buddy and I are thinking is to hook up a guage to the fuel rail and see what the pressure is like hot and cold and over night. I think whats happening is that I am somehow losing fuel pressure (reason why I have to jump the fuel relay everytime just about) and when I go to start the truck theres no fuel to make a combustion. This weekend im going to hook up a guage and see what I get...HOPEFULLY, crossing my fingers, this is what it is so I can find out if my injectors are bad or if my fuel rail somewhere has a small leak. I think I read somewhere that these early years had a problem with a certain hose or clamp or something off the fuel rail going bad???

junya92toy · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 28, 2012, 05:06:02 PM »

Well, some had a pulsation damper, its on the end of the fuel rail, they will leak after time. I have one on my 3.0 and it leaked really bad.

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