Topic: 4.0 vs. 4.7 TC ratio

[kenton]

I looked but couldn't find this topic answered.

Are the new 4.0 ratios also TS^TM, like the 4.7?

Also, why would anyone choose 4.0 if they can get 4.7, just the price difference? 4.0 to 4.7 seems like such a small difference; noticable but small. Am I missing something?

I'm ready to buy one, and I can't figure out why I would consider the 4.0 (I can afford the 4.7).

Thanks,
Kenton

[SeaBass44]

you need to clearance the t-case to fit the 4.7's.....

[kenton [OP]]

Both Jim Brink and Harry Wagner say grinding IS
required for the 4:1 set-up.

What t-case setup did you install your 4:1 in, that didn't require grinding?

Thanks,
Kenton

you need to clearance the t-case to fit the 4.7's.....

[woody]

the question I would as is how low do you really need to be....if you are running a single t-case, then the drop from 1:1 down to 4.7:1 is pretty severe, and midwest mud trails would either be run in 3rd-4th gear or in high range....hardly makes it worth it.

IMO, as a "stuck in the MidWest" wheeler, a doubler is the only way to go...and you'd be happy with either around here.

[kenton [OP]]

Thanks Woody, yes I am stuck in the Midwest. I don't like mud, and can't find many rocks-- what I really like (and am able to find) is some technical, difficult trail riding. I make it more difficult (and fun) because this is my daily driver: the added challenge of sticking with "Modified Stock".

What I'm thinking about doing is leaving my axle ratios at 4.10, going to 33" tires, and using the larger (4.0 or 4.7) transfer ratio to get back down to reasonable speeds (torques) in 4Lo. This means that in 2Hi or 4Hi I'm too tall, but that's not so bad because during the week I'd run 31" tires, and on the trails I'd stay in 4Lo.

So whaddya think? Bad idea? The one problem I see with this is that the torque multiplication happens mainly after the t-case, instead of spread better over the whole driveline (if I were using a higher axle ratio). So, I better keep a spare driveshaft and CV axles (oh, did I say that my IFS is part of the fun of the trail-ride challenge?).

So, when I calculate the ratio for this (4.0 or 4.7 xfer, 4.10 axle) and consider shifting gears, and the 33" tire size, it doesn't really help me decide whether 4.7 will be too low on the trail.

Kenton

the question I would as is how low do you really need to be....if you are running a single t-case, then the drop from 1:1 down to 4.7:1 is pretty severe, and midwest mud trails would either be run in 3rd-4th gear or in high range....hardly makes it worth it.

IMO, as a "stuck in the MidWest" wheeler, a doubler is the only way to go...and you'd be happy with either around here.

[rEdnECkwHeE1eR]

4.7:1
with those if its to low for part of the trail just shift up :.order:

[BigMike]

Hey Guys,

Actually, it is rare to clearance the reduction housing when installing a 4:1 gear set. Maybe 1 in 10 or 15 will need to be clearanced.

We don't quite yet have the 4.04:1's ready. We should be getting them mid to late this month (2 or 3 more weeks), and yes, they will not only be TS (total spline), but will also feature a factory 2 degree taper on the shift hub teeth and also be made out of stronger material composed of a greater nickle mass. Also, the sides of each teeth are rounded and the chance of chipping a tooth is greatly reduced therefore.

And as you know, it is 0.04:1 lower than the A/A 4.00:1 gears  


In terms of why a 4.0 instead of a 4.7, I have had people call in and tell me that 4.7:1 is way to low and people would have to be crazy to run it. So yes, it is definitely user preferenced.

Regards,
BigMike

[woody]

Kenton, what final crawl ratios will you end up at?  My "ideal" final is around 120-150:1.  Either the new Marlin Toybox or the 203 kit will get me there with my sm465 granny.  I run 62:1 now with a 2.313 t-case and the 6.55 first gear and 4:11 diffs.  95% of the time, it's exactly what I need.  There is .001% of the time in WI I need deeper, and the other times are Attica/Paragon/etc that I'd like it.  If I frequented the Western states more (someday...) then I might even consider deeper.  IMO, 120-150 is more than adequate for 99.99% of the trails...the balance is bragging/show-off rights.

IMO, of course....

[SeaBass44]

I have 2 toy boxs 2.28's a sm420 7.05 and 4:120's 4.3L motor, I'm 150:0.1 I would like 190:0.1 to 250:0.1 cause I can still stall the 4.3L in low low, I can't go deeper on the R&P cause it's a 4speed and I drive the thing on the street so rpm's would be to high with over 4:56's and 4:10's are cheap and strong...I had 3:90's and manged to break a tooth off the rear :change: everything will break, I've not broke a birf with my old locked F & R 82 toy, now I broke both with an open front 3100 lbs zuk, 4.3 toy axles, so it all breaks :.order: :.order: :.order:I run most the time in front box low only 65.90:1 a 4:0.1 gear set would put me at 263:61.1 a lil low but I could use 2nd or 3rd gear then, and get what I need. I don't need them bad enough to cough up the $ right now, but if Marlin wants me to be a beta tester I will, 1/2 the stuff on my rig has been givin to me by Copanys in exchange for product reviews, or I couldn't aford it at this time