Topic: will not start

[traveler727]

OK first I' d like to say hello to everyone I'm new to the forum.
I have an 86 4runner and at about 242,000 miles the motor started to knock. A friend of mine had 22r in good running condition. So I pulled my motor and put the 22r from my friend on a stand and started swaping all the efi stuff over. well got it all done and in the truck and it won't start. Checked for any codes and it checked nornal. gets good spark. get fuel to the fuel rail. seems to want to start it will fire every so often but thats it. any ideas anyone
thanks
joe

[blyota91]

 
Since it is getting fuel and spark I would suggest checking the timing.

[traveler727 [OP]]

I did replace the timming chain but I have done it twice before on the old motor and never had a problem is there a way to time the motor with out it running?

[brainlessfool]

OK, shade tree time! try spraying starting flud in the T/P and then crank it. if it fires and then dies your injetors are not opening! there now isant this fun?

[traveler727 [OP]]

Thanks I'll try that tomorrow

[BigMike]

OK, shade tree time! try spraying starting flud in the T/P and then crank it. if it fires and then dies your injetors are not opening! there now isant this fun?

Man that is some garbage advice BLF! Next time I see any shade tree talk from you I will just ignore it

traveler, welcome to the forum and I guarentee its your timing. You can check it with the engine off by placing the crank pulley at 0 degrees, check to make sure cylinder one is at bdc and not cylinder four (timing is set off of cylinder 1), and this will also put the mark on your cam gear at just past 12`oclock. Now pull your distributor out and make sure that the notched gear is aligned with the indent on the dissy housing, then put it back in. Now pull the dissy cap off and rotate the dissy until the rotor is aligned with the electrode for cylinder one. You check this by noting where on the inside of the cap spark plug wire #1 is at, and then as you watch the cap going back on, you can carefull look inside just before the cap is completely on and you can tell if the rotor is over the electrode, behind, or in front of it.

This will set the timing to zero at which point it should fire up just fine, it just wont have much power if you were to actually drive it..

So now pull out your timing gun, jump the T1 to the E terminal in the diagnostic box, I dont know off hand where this is on the 22re, but its usually somewhere near the intake manifold, or on that side of the engine bay. With the timing leads jumped, fire up the engine and point your gun at the mark on your crank pulley and set it to 5 degrees by rotating the dissy clockwise *i think*, and then your set.

Im sure your timing is like -15 right now.

If its your timing chain that is off, then here are the symptoms. If your engine is backfiring when you are cranking it then you are advanced on the cam gear by 1 or 2 teeth. If it starts but will only stay running if you give it alot of gas, then your retarded on the cam gear by 1 or 2 teeth. If your chain is off by anymore than 2 teeth, then it wouldnt start and it would try to fire on an upstroke and you would know it..

Good luck!
BigMike

[traveler727 [OP]]

Thanks alot bigmike I'll check the timming as you said. when you say bdc is that the same as tdc top dead center?

[Mike D]

bdc= bottom dead center but i think he ment tdc

[BigMike]

its the same, just 180 degrees oposite.

I think the piston is at bottom dead center at the zero mark of the crank pulley. But man I could be wrong in which case then its Top dead center..

But what ever it is, hmmmmmmmmmm........ actually come to think about it, cylinder 4 and 1 are on the same stroke of the crank. So it doesnt even matter. Geeze. what the heck was I thinking about..


ohhhhhh I know what I was thinking, You could be at top dead center (or what ever it is) but the cam could be 180 degrees off. Since the cam turns at 1/2 rate as the crank, 4 rotations of the crank = 2 rotations of the cam. So the crank pulley could be reading on the zero mark, but you need to make sure that the mark on the cam gear is pointing up and not pointing down before you adjust the distributor for timing.

So make sure that when you hit the zero mark on the crank pulley that it is the zero mark of the intake stroke and not the zero mark of the power stroke.

Ok, I feel better now

[WHITE_TRASH]

tdc there mikey.

[traveler727 [OP]]

Ok I took the valve cover back off and put the motor at tdc. the crank pulley line up with the zero mark and the cam gear mark was at 12:00 so I know all that is right. I put it all back together. when I put the distributer back in I didn't see a notch on the distributor gear but there was like a bump on the gear and I didn't see any kind of mark on the distributor houseing to line the bump up with. so what I did was put the rotor at 12:00 and pushed it in and as it went in it turned counter clockwise to what seems like close to the number one terminal when I put the cap back on I had to rotate it all the way counter clockwise till it botomed out on the bolt that holds the distributor tight to get the rotor and the cap lined up with each other. tried to start it. still will not start but will cough here and there. if I turn the distributor clockwise it just turns over nothing happens. It seems like I have to turn the distributor more to the left but the slot isn't long enough. so the problem has to be with the way I'm putting the distributor in. any thoughts
thanks every one
joe

[WHITE_TRASH]

pull the distributor and reinstall it one tooth more advanced.  Ill bet its off by a tooth.

[traveler727 [OP]]

I will try put the distributor in on tooth more advanced, but I just had another thought do you know if the 22r and the 22re share the same gear on the cam to drive the distributor? I never thought to check when I swaped everything over?
joe

[brainlessfool]

Well I'd be amazed if there diffrent.  but hey, I am a brainlessfool!