Author Topic: 22re swap  (Read 1368 times)

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bgiffie

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22re swap
« on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:13:58 PM »
I have a broken down motor in my 86 runner with a 22re and came across another 22re for $300.  It comes with everything from the air box to exhaust manifold, computer and ignition components.  I was wondering if there might be any smog issues or anything with this swap.  I live  in Ca.  The motor is from what I was told was "96" 2wd truck.  Also would a 2wd transmission fit a transfer case?

whokrz

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #1 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:19:01 PM »
Use new block and head then reuse the efi out of 86
however I think a 96 2wd is a 2rz not a 22re, and I think you need a 4wd transmission.
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
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bgiffie [OP]

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #2 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:22:56 PM »
The motor is clearly a 22re.  The guy said something about changing the output shaft to fit a transfer case.  Does that make sense?  I figure I'm better to use my 4wd trans.  Do you recommend using the 86 efi for smogs sake?

whokrz

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #3 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:32:10 PM »
Does the 86 EFI meet your smog requirements? and is the 86 EFI still wired in the truck?
As for the transmission why not use the 86 transmission?
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com
Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

whokrz

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #4 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:35:48 PM »
I think the wiring for the EFI is different from 86 to 95.
The block is the same and the head is a little different (something about more power) but I think the EFI still bolts up to either head.
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com
Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

bgiffie [OP]

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #5 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:39:21 PM »
I noticed there are a few different/more things bolted to the top of the valve cover on the new motor with some vacuum lines and wiring that is different.  I don't know if this is just rearranged or additional.

whokrz

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #6 on: Jan 21, 2009, 08:55:57 PM »
Just use the 86 valve cover.
They modified the EFI and moved it around the two EFIs are not compatable.
The wiring and EFI are different, but the block and head are pretty much the same.
If you use the 96 EFI just make sure you use everything including wiring, computer, and all the junk under the dash.
Just seems like a lot of work to upgrade the EFI to 96 if the 86 EFI works fine.
1990 4runner, 22re, R151, 4.7, 5.29s, E-locker front, Lock-Rite rear, 37" MTRs, 51" rears all around
Trail Reviews http://www.gentryoffroad.com
Toyota Factory Service Manuals http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

93tonkatoy

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Re: 22re swap
« Reply #7 on: Jan 21, 2009, 09:45:48 PM »
Put the new engine on a stand and strip it down to the block and head (remove the vacuum valve mounting plate from the top of the valve cover - the older EFI mounts them differently IIRC). Drain the oil. Check for any coolant in the old oil. Remove the oil pan. Check for any pieces of plastic (timing chain guide fragments) and thouroughly clean the pan (put the drain plug back in now). Turn the engine upside down. One at a time, remove the rod caps and check for wear. Good insurance would be to replace the bearings while you are there. After those, check all 5 of the main bearings. Go ahead and replace them, as well. These are the parts that usually get the most wear, and can lead to more serious damage if they fail. While the engine is upside down, Use a good, bright flashlight and do a good inspection of the cylinder walls. Rotate the crankshaft so that each piston is at TDC when you look at that cyl. Look for any vertical grooves (more than scoring) or galling in the bore. Go ahead and also replace the rear main seal (if this is close to the end of it's life, you will have to seperate the engine and trans later, and pull the clutch and flywheel to replace it then). If everything looks good, replace the oil pan gasket and oil pan (be sure to reinstall the oil pickup tube). Turn the engine back over, and remove the valve cover. Take a good look at the timing chain, sprockets, guides, and the timing chain cover on both sides (where the chain would rub if the guides broke). Check the valvetrain for any worn areas, broken parts and smooth function (rotate the crank) Check the rocker arm clearances. .08 for intake, .12 for exhaust. Put your valve cover back on. Now, take this long block and swap it in place of your existing block and head, and re-attach your EFI to it. Pay attention to the oil pressure sender. If the sender is different, you will need to swap your existing one to the new block. The "braces" that attach to the front of the transmission and to the bottom side of the block, attach differently from 2 to 4wd's. Use the braces for the 4wd, and everything will bolt up correctly.

If you do all of this, the replacement engine should give you the longest service life possible. Now, gather the 96 EFI system and list it in the for sale section, and you should get enough money to cover the cost of refurbishing your block.
« Last Edit: Jan 21, 2009, 09:56:11 PM by 93tonkatoy »
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