Author Topic: Brake pedal... not so firm. (Read 3565 times)

toyotanner · « **on:** Oct 24, 2007, 01:45:30 AM »

my brakes have been like this basically since the day i got it. okay heres whats going on it has all new brakes and rotors and drums. bled the brakes. but the brakes only work once its like an inch from the floor they work good but its like theres no back pressure. i was thinking its the booster??? but just want to see what you guys think before i go and buy the part

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #1 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 04:05:38 AM »

Does the peddle come up if you pump it or pull the E brake. If so check the adjustment of the rear shoes.

Also what about the master Cly? Is it new and are you getting a strong fluid flow out of all the wheels. If not I would replace it.

OOPS · « **Reply #2 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 06:00:32 AM »

Is this the way you are bleeding the brakes?

This is the proper way to bleed your brakes to avoid spongy brakes, etc...

"...This is from the FSM and it works great..."

1. Drivers side rear
2. Passenger side rear
3. Passenger side front
4. Drivers side front
5. LSPV (Load sensing proportioning valve)

dt · « **Reply #3 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 10:30:55 AM »

"all new brakes" do you mean all new calipers and all new wheel cylinders ,and my question is are you always supposed to bleed the proportioning valve?

MiniSimp · « **Reply #4 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 11:03:48 AM »

Bleed the brakes about 2 more times with the method Oops described.

red · « **Reply #5 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 11:33:11 AM »

i'm in a similar position except i've bled the brakes enough for almost a quart of brake fluid and i installed a replacement master cylinder.

toyotanner · « **Reply #6 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 12:01:32 PM »

yes i am getting a real nice stream out the bleeder.
yes i have also bled it the way OOPS has described.
by new i mean pads shoes drums and rotors thats it.
the pedal is like nice and stiff once it gets almost to the floor and it stops me fine.
if i like hit the brakes hard it will act like normal brakes but then fade back to the floor.
and if my motor is at high rpms sometimes it will try and work a little better.
oh and proportioning valve is bypassed.
keep in mind i have probably bled the brakes like 10 times since i've had it. and the brakes havent changed. i've had the truck for a year now.

OOPS · « **Reply #7 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 04:53:05 PM »

Quote from: dt on Oct 24, 2007, 10:30:55 AM

my question is are you always supposed to bleed the proportioning valve?

Yes, It is the seconded highest componet in the system and it is connected into the front and back system on most models. I have been told that some of the early models it is not connected to the front. I have never seen that type so I do not know for sure. On earth air travels up, do not know which way it goes in outer space!!!!

93tonkatoy · « **Reply #8 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 04:56:37 PM »

When you installed the rear brake shoes, did you adjust the starwheel so that the shoes lightly drag on the drum? If not, the rear may be using all of the pedal throw to move the shoes TO the drums. also check to make sure that one of the adjusters has not popped out of place, letting the spring fully retract the shoes. To check the starwheel position and to adjust, pull the dust plug out of the backing plate just below the bleeder.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #9 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 05:00:40 PM »

Quote from: toyotanner on Oct 24, 2007, 12:01:32 PM

yes i am getting a real nice stream out the bleeder.
yes i have also bled it the way OOPS has described.
by new i mean pads shoes drums and rotors thats it.
the pedal is like nice and stiff once it gets almost to the floor and it stops me fine.
if i like hit the brakes hard it will act like normal brakes but then fade back to the floor.
and if my motor is at high rpms sometimes it will try and work a little better.
oh and proportioning valve is bypassed.
keep in mind i have probably bled the brakes like 10 times since i've had it. and the brakes havent changed. i've had the truck for a year now.

doesnt matter if you ziptied the prop valve up, it is still i nthe system and needs to be bled, it can still trap air bypassed or not....

as for the rest of what you described, it almost sounds like you have a faulty booster

toyotanner · « **Reply #10 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 05:07:31 PM »

by bypassing the proportioning valve i took it out it is not there at all whatsoever.

and as for adjusting the back brakes i adjusted them to wear i could hear them drag a little and still the same

jimbo74 · « **Reply #11 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 05:20:45 PM »

yourtruck needs a proportioning valve, did you do anything to put one insto the system? i forget what the issue is, but one of the brake sets uses way more fluid than the other system, and a proportioning valve beit a racing single screw in or the load sensing ove such as the oem, has to differentiate between the 2, you cant have full pressure or hlaf/half go to the front and rear brakes, it doesnt work that way....

toyotanner · « **Reply #12 on:** Oct 24, 2007, 10:12:34 PM »

oh hmmm. well i did it to mine thinking it would help the brakes but nothing changed. and it has been that way for a while now. and i also did it to my friends 1st gen and his brakes work perfect.

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #13 on:** Oct 25, 2007, 08:08:35 AM »

What calipers and master cylinder are you running?

toyotanner · « **Reply #14 on:** Oct 25, 2007, 01:22:59 PM »

stock and stock replacements

mudguts · « **Reply #15 on:** Oct 25, 2007, 01:41:26 PM »

Is it the stock rr end or one out of an IFS truck?

*ROKTOY* · « **Reply #16 on:** Oct 25, 2007, 03:07:56 PM »

Quote from: mudguts on Oct 25, 2007, 01:41:26 PM

Is it the stock rr end or one out of an IFS truck?

Ditto, does your calipers have vent ribs on them? What year truck are we talking about? Does it have solid rotors or vented?

toyotanner · « **Reply #17 on:** Oct 25, 2007, 07:20:57 PM »

stock rear end. its a 79 toyota with solid rotors

dt · « **Reply #18 on:** Oct 25, 2007, 11:37:20 PM »

what happens when you pull out the e-brake?

toyotanner · « **Reply #19 on:** Oct 26, 2007, 01:40:58 PM »

i had to disconnect my ebrake because i moved my axel back but when it was in it worked really good. it only took like 8 clicks and it was on.

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