Author Topic: birfield vs. u-joint  (Read 7330 times)

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rscalmo

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birfield vs. u-joint
« on: Apr 17, 2007, 03:41:05 PM »
What would be the strongest way to go for the front axle of a 81 22r if im going to lock it?

1) buying chromoly birfields and axle shafts?

2) buying chromoly u-joints and axle shafts?

and lastly...
since a spool is cheaper would it be the better way to go since its only engaged when in 4 wheel drive and the hubs locked or would a detroit be better?

of course only marlin parts would be used for this axle setup!
rebuilt 22R, downey header long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 4 inch marlin lift with 3 inch shackles, detriot locker, 4.88's on 33's.marlin cross over steering and fror crossmember, power steering conversion, chromoly 30 spline bobby longs, 86+ wider rear axle, 12 inch 5150's all around, fully gusseted with armor...soon to be sitting on 35 bfg MT with an all pro roll cage and rock lights!

guywithuglyyota

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #1 on: Apr 17, 2007, 03:52:16 PM »
Definately option 1 if your gonna run big rubbers

I would never spool or lincoln lock a front diff unless I had a buggy and was short on funds for a locker.

The first time you attempt to steer in a tight spot on the trail, in mud, snow etc....your going to regret that mod, unless you dont mind three point turns....

I have never ran a detroit, im spoiled by an ARB.

Good luck with your rig!
Comedy is the last refuge of the nonconformist mind.

rscalmo [OP]

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #2 on: Apr 17, 2007, 03:57:17 PM »
god! lucky! (said like napoleon) hehe
guess im locking with detroit (half the price of arb) but wish i could have one...and using some birfs.
rebuilt 22R, downey header long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 4 inch marlin lift with 3 inch shackles, detriot locker, 4.88's on 33's.marlin cross over steering and fror crossmember, power steering conversion, chromoly 30 spline bobby longs, 86+ wider rear axle, 12 inch 5150's all around, fully gusseted with armor...soon to be sitting on 35 bfg MT with an all pro roll cage and rock lights!

guywithuglyyota

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #3 on: Apr 17, 2007, 04:33:25 PM »
Wheel whatever you can afford. The most fun I have ever had was in a stock Toyota or Jeep. Of course certain trails require a locker, the nasty ones need two...but you can go lots of places with what you have now. You can go ARB and hold off on the cromolly shafts until you save enough. Just carry a spare Birf and know how to repair in the field (camo method works well)

I think too many people get hung up on worrying about breakage, ratios, tire sizes blah blah blah when they could be out wheeling and having fun...which is the point of the exercise right?

(not saying thats you, just saying)
Comedy is the last refuge of the nonconformist mind.

Rockcrawlintoy

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #4 on: Apr 17, 2007, 04:46:12 PM »
I think too many people get hung up on worrying about breakage, ratios, tire sizes blah blah blah when they could be out wheeling and having fun...which is the point of the exercise right?

i worry about breaking because it causes stress on other parts causing them to fail. also gettin all greasy sucks on a 4 day trail ride

Drew
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rscalmo [OP]

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #5 on: Apr 17, 2007, 04:53:29 PM »
so what is the camo method? ive never had to replace a birf yet...but it might be helpful to know!
rebuilt 22R, downey header long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 4 inch marlin lift with 3 inch shackles, detriot locker, 4.88's on 33's.marlin cross over steering and fror crossmember, power steering conversion, chromoly 30 spline bobby longs, 86+ wider rear axle, 12 inch 5150's all around, fully gusseted with armor...soon to be sitting on 35 bfg MT with an all pro roll cage and rock lights!

guywithuglyyota

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #6 on: Apr 17, 2007, 05:01:08 PM »
How to change one quickly Camo method
Pull locking hub cap and remove snap ring.
Unbolt seal/felts on back of knuckle.
Unbolt brake caliper and tie out of the way. (can be skipped if you have long brake lines)
Unbolt steering arm. (leave bottom knuckle cap alone)
Pull entire outer knuckle assembly off of axle.
Swap in your parts.
Put it back together.
It's a big-time shortcut since you don't need to mess with the 54mm socket or wheel bearings.

Keep in mind this is a quick repair if your wheelin, better off to do it the regular way in the garage.
Comedy is the last refuge of the nonconformist mind.

rscalmo [OP]

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #7 on: Apr 17, 2007, 05:20:19 PM »
i guess id have to see it to know how you could skip taking off the big nut. and it can be done that way but its not the "right" way and will break easier or something?
rebuilt 22R, downey header long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 4 inch marlin lift with 3 inch shackles, detriot locker, 4.88's on 33's.marlin cross over steering and fror crossmember, power steering conversion, chromoly 30 spline bobby longs, 86+ wider rear axle, 12 inch 5150's all around, fully gusseted with armor...soon to be sitting on 35 bfg MT with an all pro roll cage and rock lights!

91 super yoda

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #8 on: Apr 17, 2007, 05:55:55 PM »
its just a little cleaner and less time consuming.

id stick an aussie locker in the back and leave the front open on some 33's. you should never have trouble with the stock birfs open with 33's, even 35's with conservative driving.

RRMike

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #9 on: Apr 17, 2007, 06:45:41 PM »
i guess id have to see it to know how you could skip taking off the big nut. and it can be done that way but its not the "right" way and will break easier or something?

It's just as good as any other way.  The reason you don't have to take the wheel bearing nut off is that it holds the hub onto the spindle.  They are coming off as one piece along with the knuckle so you don't need to disassemble them.  You basically just take the whole end of the front axle assembly off in one piece by sliding it off of the inner axle (birf).

Oh and get longfields.  30 spline longs are stronger than anything else you can put inside a Toyota housing.

rscalmo [OP]

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #10 on: Apr 18, 2007, 06:26:33 PM »
just spoke to a tech from marlin about the birfs...he recommends the bobby long 30 spline complete set. checked the site: $645 for axles and birfs and all. not too bad considering marlin sells theirs at 250 a pop plus axles at 200 a piece. and they are only 27 spine....thought id let everyone know!
rebuilt 22R, downey header long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 4 inch marlin lift with 3 inch shackles, detriot locker, 4.88's on 33's.marlin cross over steering and fror crossmember, power steering conversion, chromoly 30 spline bobby longs, 86+ wider rear axle, 12 inch 5150's all around, fully gusseted with armor...soon to be sitting on 35 bfg MT with an all pro roll cage and rock lights!

blackdiamond

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #11 on: Apr 18, 2007, 07:05:52 PM »
just spoke to a tech from marlin about the birfs...he recommends the bobby long 30 spline complete set. checked the site: $645 for axles and birfs and all. not too bad considering marlin sells theirs at 250 a pop plus axles at 200 a piece. and they are only 27 spine....thought id let everyone know!

Info like this is likely to revolutionize the Toyota industry!   :yupyup:

 :psss: Longfields are no secret around here, many of us already run them.  If your trying to build strong and stay within a budget, get a Detroit rear locker, Aussie front locker and Longfieds for the front.  Don't go over 33 inch tires on the stock birfs and no front locker until you upgrade either.

 :wave:

1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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rscalmo [OP]

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #12 on: Apr 18, 2007, 11:56:28 PM »
 :bowdown: oh!


haha :hammer:
rebuilt 22R, downey header long tubes, 2.5" exhaust, 4 inch marlin lift with 3 inch shackles, detriot locker, 4.88's on 33's.marlin cross over steering and fror crossmember, power steering conversion, chromoly 30 spline bobby longs, 86+ wider rear axle, 12 inch 5150's all around, fully gusseted with armor...soon to be sitting on 35 bfg MT with an all pro roll cage and rock lights!

guywithuglyyota

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #13 on: Apr 20, 2007, 12:23:07 PM »
just spoke to a tech from marlin about the birfs...he recommends the bobby long 30 spline complete set. checked the site: $645 for axles and birfs and all. not too bad considering marlin sells theirs at 250 a pop plus axles at 200 a piece. and they are only 27 spine....thought id let everyone know!

haha  Thank God you didnt post this on the Pirate forum!
Comedy is the last refuge of the nonconformist mind.

Loosekannon

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Re: birfield vs. u-joint
« Reply #14 on: Apr 20, 2007, 08:24:44 PM »
haha  Thank God you didnt post this on the Pirate forum!

 :roflsign: So true So true....

Don't go over 33 inch tires on the stock birfs and no front locker until you upgrade either.

 :wave:



A friend of mine was running 36 inch Irocs with a spool on stock birfs. Ran a couple Hammers trails too. But I think luck was on his side, and I would not recomend that. When he finally upgraded to some Bobby 30 splines, we were looking at the stock axles and they were twisted so bad. They looked like all thread bolts.

 
 
 
 
 

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