Author Topic: 3.slo help  (Read 1154 times)

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jeff94runner

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3.slo help
« on: Jun 02, 2009, 09:04:58 AM »
To replace valve seals in a 3.0 do you have to remove the valve itself or can you leave it in and just pull the seal without removing the head?  Has anybody replaced just valve seals before or do I have a bigger problem?  My 3.0 is a reman alittle over one year old bored .30. Thanks

Jeff-
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globalexcursion

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Re: 3.slo help
« Reply #1 on: Jun 02, 2009, 11:09:01 AM »
Yes you will need to get a spring compressor to get the seals out. I recommend taking it to a machine shop and having them do it for you. I will be taking my heads in this week for a shave and new seals. (I'm doing a full gasket kit and clutch in my 89)

Snowtoy

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Re: 3.slo help
« Reply #2 on: Jun 02, 2009, 04:58:40 PM »
^^ Make sure to get at least a new knock sensor wire, the wire gets brittle and usually cause the CEL to light up for KS.  It is recommended to replace both the wire and the KS when removing the heads, but no one I have talked to can say why the KS goes bad.  I replaced both just so I knew I wouldn't have to pull it down just to fix KS problem.

jeff94runner
I would think w/a reman everything should have been new when you bought the engine.
What leads you to believe the seals are bad?  Is it still under warranty?
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jeff94runner [OP]

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Re: 3.slo help
« Reply #3 on: Jun 02, 2009, 05:20:07 PM »
Quote
jeff94runner
I would think w/a reman everything should have been new when you bought the engine.
What leads you to believe the seals are bad?  Is it still under warranty?

  well, I've got white build up on two plugs on the drivers side head. Compression test did not get better with the oil test. At least that is what the FSM said.  No, on the warrranty, it ran out in Feb.


Just to clarify, the head has to come off correct? Thanks for your help.

It seems like i priced a KS and wire last year and they were like $150 for both from Toyota. Thats half of a crossover steering kit.ouch
« Last Edit: Jun 02, 2009, 05:30:26 PM by jeff94runner »
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Snowtoy

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Re: 3.slo help
« Reply #4 on: Jun 02, 2009, 07:02:44 PM »
The white plugs could be from running hot, i.e, lean or wrong plug heat range.

What were the comp numbers?

As far as the seals, yes it looks like you have to remove the heads, to be able to compress the springs in order to remove the retainer.  Once you are down to the heads it isn't all than much work to remove them.I do believe there isn't an easy way of doing it with the heads on. If there isn't an FSM here or the 3.0, there is one here '93 FSM.   
'90 black X-cab mod'd 3.0, 33's/4.88's, rear ARB, custom bumpers, sliders, safari rack, etc.
'91 Blue X-cab 22re, 35's/5.29's,Truetrac front, ARB rear, dual cases, and custom Safari flatbed, bumper, interior.
The money pit '87 Supra resto/mod

globalexcursion

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Re: 3.slo help
« Reply #5 on: Jun 04, 2009, 03:12:26 PM »
Also look for burnt exhaust valves, they will have a flat spot on the edge. This means a valve job, Car Quest does it for $150 a set (cheap). Machining the surfaces is another $70.
« Last Edit: Jun 05, 2009, 01:49:36 AM by globalexcursion »

Richmondo

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Re: 3.slo help
« Reply #6 on: Jun 04, 2009, 07:18:30 PM »
I just did a valve job on mine because of some burnt valves. You don't need a spring compressor to get the keepers and retainers off. A 14mm socket, preferably with a magnet inside, and a hammer works pretty well. Going back together is a different story though. A spring compressor or keeper SST is definitely needed...
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