Topic: Attn: Ford Brains!

[*FFC*]

Hey ya'll howya doin?

I discovered something that concerned me yesterday.  When adding oil to my '70 f-250, I took the oil filler cap off (actually it's one of the breather caps). Around the rim of the valve cover was some green, snotlike stuff that reeked and looked like water/gas/oil mixture.  Smelled a little burnt too.  The breather cap is clogged and black I could probably wring the filter out. 

Now I sound like a noob 

Any suggestions?

TY in advance
FFC

[BLACKDOG]

well, from the sound of it, you may have a water/gas/oil mixture in your motor


  running fine?  blowing smoke?  try changing the oil, see what the rest of it looks like.  Other breather caps have it?

[*FFC* [OP]]

well, from the sound of it, you may have a water/gas/oil mixture in your motor


  running fine?  blowing smoke?  try changing the oil, see what the rest of it looks like.  Other breather caps have it?

I did an oil change I wanna say 2k ago ish.  It runs kinda rough, the exhaust is only pouring out the driver's side muffler, the pass side is releasing very little exhaust.  Both of the breather caps on the valve covers are leaking...

[TacoStewie]

i found the problem..... it is circled for you.

[*FFC* [OP]]

i found the problem..... it is circled for you.

I guess I deserved that after the cracks I said in the thread about BigMike's truck

[jimbo74]

i found the problem..... it is circled for you.

we need the pic

[TacoStewie]

have you thought about a head gasket (the green stuff could be antifrezze)

[*FFC* [OP]]

have you thought about a head gasket (the green stuff could be antifrezze)

Yes, I have considered it.  Usually if that is the case, then it would be discolored throughout the engine.  The dipstick oil is black, and smells gassy.  No milky color nor green on the dipstick.  The green could be a mixture of antifreeze, if it were a head gasket... but I'm not sure if I even have antifreeze in my radiator I think it's just water Guess that's my next thing to check out 

[BLACKDOG]

If its had any antifreeze in there for the past coupla years, you'll still have some.  (unless you did a real coolant flush, which I doubt )  Just having water in there isn't a good idea, especially since it was below freezing at night for those few weeks. 

you may want to check your exhaust, and check your compression too.  both sides should be pumping exhaust out equally, not one more than the other.

[*FFC* [OP]]

I have never run a compression check BD, wanna come show me how?

[BLACKDOG]

I have never run a compression check BD, wanna come show me how?

Do you have a compression tester?   

[*FFC* [OP]]

Do you have a compression tester?   

If you were anyone else I'd give you a straight answer, but since you're not:

If I had a compression tester do you really think I'd be asking how to check the compression??

[kneedownnate]

Justina, head over to an autoparts store and get some coolant die.  If there's enough coolant in the oil to collect under the 710 cap, this die may show up there too, but if it's going into the exhaust you'll see it under a black light  

[Blingn]

Do you have a compression tester?   

I got a compression tester you can borrow and Jason you can show her how to use it.  I have only used it on dodge products are they the same??

[BLACKDOG]

If you were anyone else I'd give you a straight answer, but since you're not:

If I had a compression tester do you really think I'd be asking how to check the compression??

I'll give you a straight answer..


YES 

I got a compression tester you can borrow and Jason you can show her how to use it.  I have only used it on dodge products are they the same??

I dunno   I've only used one on a dodge and a toyota.  I sure hope ford is the same  

[kneedownnate]

Most compression testers come with the adapters for most size spark plugs, but the fitting on the hose itself is "usually" the standard size thread.

[toynorcal]

I had an old F-100, 300 in-line 6cyl. It was getting blow-by really bad. Found it first in the EGR and then made its way to the air filter. Hope your not looking at the same type of thing. Make yourself a screwdriver stethoscope and see if you got a knock if doing a compression test isn't an option right now.

[fordh8r]

That vintage of ford engine (V8, I'll assume) did have issues with intake manifold gaskets leaking at the water jackets and leaking into the "valley" below the intake and into the oil pan. damn fords...JK. If you suspect a head gasket you'll have to remove the intake first anyway and at least inspect the intake gasket closely to see if that is where it's coming from. The gasket may be rotted around the water passages and also check for any eroded metal from the mating surfaces. How often do you add water and how much when you do add? Does it overheat? If you end up replacing only the intake gasket just be sure to properly torque the bolts in the correct order and do it several times to ensure that it is all the way down (very important). Since, again, these are very prone to leaking if not done correctly. If you have any other info it may be helpful. Hope this helps. 

[*FFC* [OP]]

1.) I didn't know Matt had a tester, and we were both at work when the subject was approached.  Now we just gotta figure out how to use it

2.) It's got a lifter tick that's been happening for a long time.

3.) I already replaced the intake manifold gasket which constituted of removing the lifters and pushrods.  I resealed the intake manifold gasket which did not eliminate my rear main seal leak that I have not yet fixed.

4.) I believe the gas in the oil is from worn out rings... or so I was told by my stepdad who can overhaul a Ford engine in a day

I have done about 5 oil changes on it since I replaced the intake manifold gasket.  I hadn't removed the lower radiator hose before removing the intake manifold and got coolant in the intake.  I vacuumed it out and changed the oil 4 times in a week only running for a few minutes at a time.  But that was right after I got it almost 3 years ago I didn't see this gunk till just lately.  The blow by has been happening forever.

[fordh8r]

if a compression test proves to be inconclusive you can remove the schrader in the copression tester hose and shoot compressed ar into the cylinder with it ATDC of the compression stroke and listen for and air coming from the radiator cap (if it's full you might also see bubbles). That may be another indicator of a blown head gasket.

[*FFC* [OP]]

I honestly do not think it's a head gasket.  But I'm leaving my options open.

SO, My stepdad has a Windsor sitting in his garage.  We're thinkin bout throwing that in and over time, rebuilding the 360... just as a backup.  I have discussed it briefly with him, but now I'm thinking about discussing it more in depth

[BLACKDOG]

1.) I didn't know Matt had a tester, and we were both at work when the subject was approached.  Now we just gotta figure out how to use it

its easy.  This is how I was taught to do it, may not be the "correct"  way, but it'll get the answers. 

1.  remove coil wire from distributor. (you don't want to run the motor, just crank it.

2.  remove #1 spark plug. 

3.  thread hose of compression tester into spark plug hose (assuming its the "standard" thread, if not, find adapters until it fits)

4. crank the engine over

5.  look at compression guage, make note of it.    (I'm not sure what your compression is supposed to be, on a 3.0 its 150-170 IIRC.  )

6. do steps 2-5 with the other 8 cylinders.  Your #s should come out pretty consistent across the board.  If one is abnormally low or high, you've got a problem centered around that cylinder.

[*FFC* [OP]]

**sends request to library for compression specifications**


Okay... I'll give it a shot.  All 8 cylinders... yay

Thank you J. 

[kneedownnate]

its easy.  This is how I was taught to do it, may not be the "correct"  way, but it'll get the answers. 

1.  remove coil wire from distributor and ground it to the chassis

2.  remove #1 spark plug. 

3.  thread hose of compression tester into spark plug hose (assuming its the "standard" thread, if not, find adapters until it fits)

4. crank the engine over while holding throttle wide open

5.  look at compression guage, make note of it.    (I'm not sure what your compression is supposed to be, on a 3.0 its 150-170 IIRC.  )

6. do steps 2-5 with the other 8 cylinders.  Your #s should come out pretty consistent across the board.  If one is abnormally low or high, you've got a problem centered around that cylinder.

Fixed it for ya

[boggerunner]

did someone flick a huge booger into your motor?
i cant believe im the first one to think of this one

[BLACKDOG]

Fixed it for ya

meh   I was close 

[*FFC* [OP]]

did someone flick a huge booger into your motor?
i cant believe im the first one to think of this one

I thought of it first Look at my first post, I said it looks like snot