Topic: Buggy wiring

[Ricks72]

Ok im doing the wiring on my 22r with propane on my formula toy.  What are the bare bone wires that the 22r needs to run?  I got the starter turning over but its very weak and dies.  And also no spark going to the distributor.  Anybody done a buggy wiring job and got some pics to look at

[MiniSimp]

Call http://www.offroadsolutions.com/
Tell them the guys on Pirate4x4 told you to ask them cause they are the best.

[Ricks72 [OP]]

Um thanks  are you trying to sell me on ORS wiring harness?  Thats not what I need just the absolut basic wiring for the 22r

Maybe I'll just try and go back to the FSM 

[MiniSimp]

No, I'm telling you to call ORS, not buy from them.

[Ricks72 [OP]]

I gave em a PM over on pirate

[Oddmar]

This will give you a good ignition system for cheap...i use a (computer processor) heat sink w/ attached 12VDC fan to cool the ignition module.

[jimbo74]

This will give you a good ignition system for cheap...i use a (computer processor) heat sink w/ attached 12VDC fan to cool the ignition module.

could this setup be used on a regular truck?

[Oddmar]

Anything with a simple solid-state ignition...1st there was points, then solid-state, then computer fuel injection.

So yeah, older Chevys, Fords, Dodges, Toyotas, anything with a hall-effect sensor...that thing in the distributor that tells the ignition module when to fire the coil.

[Ricks72 [OP]]

  now thats what I was looking for.  Yeah I should have also noted that I dont have points.  So If ive read correctly this should work for my set up as long as I dont blow my self up with the pane 

[jimbo74]

Anything with a simple solid-state ignition...1st there was points, then solid-state, then computer fuel injection.

So yeah, older Chevys, Fords, Dodges, Toyotas, anything with a hall-effect sensor...that thing in the distributor that tells the ignition module when to fire the coil.

so in this case, i can basically make a plug in ignition system for a trail spare for $30... should my stock $300 igniter die at one point

[Ricks72 [OP]]

Any one able to back up this set-up? 

Also with the Alternator do I need to keep the plug off the back of it or is it just the one single wire on the side of the alt that goes back to the battery.

I've got a 12VoltGuy panel that will hold switches for all my lights and other electronics, since from what I could tell by looking at where the harness went to from that plug on the alt. it ran to the lights

[Oddmar]

Take note of the color sceme...the el-cheapo ignition was pulled from Pirate origanally. I save whole web pages sometimes just so i don't have to rely on the internet when i need to double-check a tech article. I also have hundreds of tech links saved in my favorites.

The stock Toyota alternator is externally regulated, the 3 or 4 wire plug goes to that little black box (usually labeled IC) on the inner fender near the ignitor & coil...that's what regulates the alternator output to the battery. GM systems have the regulator inside the back of the alternator, that's why they can work with just one wire sometimes.

The stock Toyota alternator only puts out like 40 amps, couldn't believe it was so wimpy. If you fab your own brackets you can mount a GM alternator...normal stock output is 60 to 100 amps. There are usually two small terminals on a GM alternator...one goes to the ignition hot wire, to energize the field coil in the alternator when the engine is running, the other is a voltage sensing wire...it goes to the positive battery terminal, it senses battery voltage...a discharged battery might be at 10.6 volts DC, a fully charged one at 13.17 volts. The regulator varies the current going to the battery so the alternator doesn't cook it. The main large terminal with the heavy wire is the main charging wire going to the battery.

Go here- http://www.geocities.com/damonfg/obweld.html to see a pic with a red wire going to an alternator...that terminal is the ignition-hot wire, the other unused terminal beside it is the voltage-sensing terminal. (This web page shows you how to turn a normal GM alternator into a stick welder...it won't operate at the high frequency that Premier Power Welder's one does, but it works great if you like stick welders, and it's cheap.)

If you put a GM alternator on your Toyota you won't use the external IC regulator.

Yes, the Chevy ignition module and coil being only $30ish dollars combined is a perfect way to back-up your expensive Toyota ignition. Some people gave it bad reviews, but they also said 'You dont need a heat sink on the regulator'...you do...they were just lazy. Works fine on the Chevy, right? The cheap regulator and coil are also NEW, and may work better than the 20+ year old Toyota ignition components for just that reason.

[jimbo74]

as far as the alternator goes, for this, my truck runs a externally regulated alternator, but i have a toyota internally regulated alternator as well, how could i run the internally regulated alt on my truck instead?

[Oddmar]

Whattya get when ya mix an elephant and a rhino?....Ellifino...

Dunno squat about Toyota internally regulated alternators.