Author Topic: Truck not charging (Read 3858 times)

RustyToy · « **on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:21:53 PM »

I'm running off the battery right now. I can't figure it out. I took the alternator and had it tested, they say its good. Its running like crap and if I disconnect the battery it dies. Its an 82 pickup, I'm about to shoot this truck.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #1 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:27:04 PM »

test the alternator yourself with a voltmeter, places that test them loose, well lets just say the workers are morons, and alts test good that are crap.....

RustyToy · « **Reply #2 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:30:38 PM »

This is gonna sound ignant but the only way i know how to do it is to disconect the battery and if it dies then its the alt. I tried putting a volt meter to it. The volt meter in my truck is reading below 12 volts.

jimbo74 · « **Reply #3 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:34:08 PM »

the in cab guages usually arent all that accurate, im talking about a voltmeter, like the actually test tool, not the stock guage...

have you checked the fuses? how are the ground wires?

disconnecting the battery and if it dies usually will point to charging system, do you have an internal voltage regulator or external?

get a multimeter and check its output, a properly charging system should produce around 14 volts of output

RustyToy · « **Reply #4 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:37:00 PM »

its an external reg. i was thinking that could be the problem. (i hope) when i put a hand held volt meter to the alt it says 10 volts and that seams to be the reading i get all over and with the ground side touching all the grounding straps and what not.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #5 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:46:00 PM »

I don't know if an 82 still runs a volt meter or a amp meter? If you have an amp meter it is a part of the charging circuit and if you have a loose connection or a bad amp meter it will not charge the battery and will not allow the vehicle to run since the power runs through it and then to all your circuitry. My 80 has a amp meter in the center box and it stays at zero at all times, if it goes either direction you have a problem. It is a common problem with amp meters and the main reason they went to the volt meter since you can just add it to the system passively to get a reading.

RustyToy · « **Reply #6 on:** Jul 05, 2006, 08:56:51 PM »

i should test the amps, don't have a amp meter at the moment tho, thanks for the info. this is driving me nuts...

yotee · « **Reply #7 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 05:07:22 PM »

you put that regulator on yet?
was it the problem?

mike

skunkyoda · « **Reply #8 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 05:28:21 PM »

I had the same problem and I found the answer on here. you probably have a cracked ground or cracked positive off your battery, if it isnt your alt

RustyToy · « **Reply #9 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 05:41:46 PM »

Hey mike, ya changed that and it wasn't it. I'm about to dive into the wires. I have an LC distributor so I hope that isn't it. The strangest part of the whole deal was it started when I installed a carb. thanks for the battery termanal tip I'll go there first.

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #10 on:** Jul 06, 2006, 06:54:09 PM »

Did you reconnect the ground for the carb? Did you bump or accidentally futz with anything while pulling or installing said carb. Is it a good carb or a bad carb...have you tested your cholesterol?

RustyToy · « **Reply #11 on:** Jul 07, 2006, 06:35:11 AM »

Is there a ground strap for the carb?

RustyToy · « **Reply #12 on:** Jul 08, 2006, 01:42:15 PM »

Just in case anyone was wondering, it is posible that you can get 5 alternators and 5 ic regulators that are bad from your local kregan store.

DTB · « **Reply #13 on:** Jul 08, 2006, 01:59:01 PM »

doesnt surprise me. my neighbor uses that same plan....sure it's cheap and they have a lifetime warranty but is it worth the trouble of having to replace over and over again when it goes out? and more importantly, is it worth being stuck in the middle of nowhere? ive been there (nowhere) and it sucked.

i only trust toyota on stuff like that

CTENG in KS · « **Reply #14 on:** Jul 08, 2006, 02:16:03 PM »

I got mine at autozone...good on the first shot.

Rocksurfer · « **Reply #15 on:** Jul 08, 2006, 04:07:12 PM »

Carb ground? I guess I'll check my blinker fluid while I check for a carb ground. Are you refering to the ground strap from the firewall to the back of the engine?

RustyToy · « **Reply #16 on:** Jul 08, 2006, 05:20:55 PM »

they grabbed one of the (good regulators) that they sell for lots more money and finally threw it in the cheap O box and let me out the door with it. It was either that or I fill a bunch of beer bottles with gas, with rags in them and....

synwars · « **Reply #17 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 01:41:19 PM »

My 82 has a in cab voltmeter.

I had the same electrical demons. I swapped over new alternators and IC Reg's about 3 times before I said "no more" and fabbed up some brackets for a 120 amp 1-wire Gm alternator. $100 and no hassel. Took me 1/2 day to fabb up the brackets right, had to tweak it a second time and hasn't let me down. In fact, all my lights are much brighter, and my stereo doesn't even come close to draining the battery. Plus it's blingin' chrome! $That\'s Gay$

synwars · « **Reply #18 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 01:45:44 PM »

PS. Check easy stuff first.

MAKE SURE ALL YOUR GROUNDS HAVE METAL ON METAL CONTACTS AND ARE FREE FROM RUST AND OTHER CONTAMINATES, ARE CLEAN AND BOLTED DOWN TIGHT.

CHECK YOUR FUSES AND FUSEABLE LINKS.

RustyToy · « **Reply #19 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 07:03:55 PM »

how did you wire all the stuff for the internal reg? Got any pics? This is really what i wanna do. the woosie alternators arn't cuttin it anymore.

Willy Mammoth · « **Reply #20 on:** Jul 10, 2006, 07:19:33 PM »

In order for the alt to start charging it needs to have power applied to the feild windings. After that it should start charging. The regulator will adjust the voltage to the windings to keep the voltage output within limits.

Check all connections and make sure they are clean. Also look to see if there are any fusable links or fuses that are burnt out. Check the plug at the alt with a test light to see if they are being powered up. If not the alt will not charge.

synwars · « **Reply #21 on:** Jul 11, 2006, 07:38:04 AM »

Quote from: RustyToy on Jul 10, 2006, 07:03:55 PM

how did you wire all the stuff for the internal reg? Got any pics? This is really what i wanna do. the woosie alternators arn't cuttin it anymore.

20+ year old wiring isn't nice. It eventually breaks inside especially where it is kinked.

You wire a 1-wire with one wire. After the alternator is securely in place, buy a new battery cable from your local auto parts store (Lordco up here) and bolt one end to the positive terminal on the back of the alternator, and the other to the positive post on your battery. Done.

Remember, the IC is mechanical, so your engine needs to be turning minimum 750 RPM's before an IC Alt will "switch on".

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