Topic: synthetic oils?

[Bigbadtoy]

i recently switched to synthetic oil at 94,000 im using moble 1 10w30 i recently used chevron 10w40 and had no problem burning oil and now i do? whats the reason for this? i cant switch back to conventional oils can i?
thanks

[Ferg]

Synthetics will produce leaks. Period.  You are most likely leaking, not burning oil.  Yes you can switch back.

[guywithuglyyota]

I did the same thing with even more miles (174,000) and it did not leak, however it does consume a bit of oil, but since then I have put 7,000 miles on her and the oil burning has decreased. A frind of mine was told by the Quick Lube guys that Mobile one burns for some reason. I just deal with it and add a half quart every 1,000 miles. Seems like normal consumption to me.

[Toyoballs]

What benifit have you noticed running synthetic oil?
Has it increased your fuel mileage any? Any power gains?

I used to use it in my YZ400 when I raced - never noticed any consumption - I used Yamalube though.

[reklund5]

Ok.  Heres my opinion on oils:

It doesn't make one bit of difference WHAT oil you use, as long as you change the oil and the filter regularly.  The problem these days isn't so much with the oil breaking down, but with all the dirt/carbon/fuel/condensation and crap that gets into the oil and can't get out.   Thats the major problem with all the oils that advertise that you can run them for 10-15K miles with no problems.  In a vehicle that is driven offroad, where its way more likely to ingest tons of dirt and dust, is lugged at low RPM and gets extra fuel and carbon in the oil, it is especially important to change the oil often. 

My choice for my crawler:  Plain old Valvoline 10/30 and a Toyota D1 filter.  I change it every 3 months, wether it needs it or not.  (this vehicle is only used off road, so it rarely has more than 1000 miles on it between oil changes)

My Supra: Gets Mobil 1 15/50 cause the turbo runs hot.  I change it every 2500 miles with a Toyota D1 filter.

My F-250: Gets RotellaT 15/40 or Delo 15/40 and a Motorcraft filter every 2500 miles.  Diesels (especially the old ones) turn the oil black in a hurry. 

Any power gained by switching to a particular brand/type of oil you couldn't feel in the seat of your pants anyway- just change it OFTEN!

Also, on the 22R it is particularly important to use an oil filter with an anti-drainback valve in it to keep some pressure on the timing chain tensioner.  This prevents the chain from slapping when you start the engine and in turn makes your timing guides last longer.  The Toyota D1 oil filter is about as good as it gets...

Ryan

[Bigbadtoy [OP]]

so i can change back to regular oil again or no? if i cant i was thinking about running moble 1 20w50 or strait 50 weight synthetic

[reklund5]

yes, you can switch back to regular oil no problem. 

Also, Synthetic oil doesn't produce leaks.  The oil molecules are smaller and just exploit leaks you already had, sometimes turning a "seep" into a leak. 

Ryan

[guywithuglyyota]

I agree with reklund. My 81 had 367,000 miles running penzoil 10w-30 before it needed a rest.

If you check out the Amsoil website they have an oil filtration bypass system that they sell for virtually any engine, even the 22r/re.

Its the deposits that cause the most damage to your engine.

Synthetic can withstand higher temps, and maintain its viscosity longer than conventional, its proven its superior, however may not be necessary in such a low reving, cool running engine such as the 22r.

I say run what you prefer, but change the oil, or atleast the filter every 3,000 miles.

Im an Amsoil guy, but I swithed to Mobile 1 becasue its much easier to come accross locally.     

Oh yeah, not sure if it helps but im running an oversized filter, its a fram tough guard (fram generally sucks) I read the tough guard use a bit better parts than the standard orange filters. To find the larger size I simply opened up boxes comparing the threads, and hole size to the recommended size. Its over twice the size of the stock filter.