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... this thing will pull all the way to 5000 rpm with only slightlyslower acceleration right at the end...
i sure don't do it every day, but i have done it three or four times.and the stock tach might be off 100 or so but still close enough to say i went to 5000but it doesn't vibrate or make weird sounds and it is still pulling plenty strong so i think doing it occasionally shouldn't be to dangerous.i also had to replace my front crank seal because the old one was a cheapo dnj i think.
these things reach peak hp at 4800 rpm at which point the early has about 105 ft/lbs while peak torque is achieved at 2800 rpm and is about 130 ft/lbs, i believe that the engine was intended to be used in this range(redline is 5400 and normally from my limited experience there is about 500 rpm of overrev designed into most engines), i tach it to 4400 every day and it handles that perfectly fine.
Agreed!...“Well, one has to consider that the Toyota engineers were constrained by various factors-…”
so now that i've driven it for a while, .... i plan to turn it back to stock as it was designed to not harm the engine in the stock configuration......
Yeah, the constraint is I don't have a knock sensor installed yet.
The ears can hear a loud ping, but the knock sensor will read it at a much quieter level
I come from the old school VW crowd, and I modded my 20R distributors to have just a mechanical advance. Simple to bypass the vac advance, just don't put the hose on, 0 braincells stressed on that one. then, with a Dremel, I ground the stops in the distributor to give me a total of 26 degrees mechanical advance. I had already found my best initial advance for my engine, 12 degrees, so I had a total of 38 degrees advance. Then to keep the curve under control I was able to use springs for a Chevy distributor, Mallory had a set of assorted spring rates available in a kit back then. Total advance came in at 7000rpm and was pretty linear. If I needed to do an adjustment all I had to do with that distributor is turn the "Octane selector" knob. The 20R distributors had a screw that adjusted the initial timing and was connected to the vacuum advance mechanism. It was sooo easy back then.From the VWs I learned to use just a mechanical advance using a '009" distributor, mechanical advance only. We set the initial advance at 0 and let the distributor do all the timing work.
Them days will come around again.
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