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Are you using the gauge in the cluster, or checking the pressure at the sending unit? If the cluster, the gauge is an electric one, so it may not work correctly without all the grounds and battery hooked up.If you removed the pick up tube, did you use a new gasket, could be losing pressure right there.Also, the 22r(e) is an interference engine, when the t-chain breaks it usually results in bent valves. If you didn't pull the head and check the valves and inspect the the tops of the pistons, your current effort may be a waste of time when you get it all bolted back together.
When I replaced the head on my 22RE, it took longer to get oil pressure to register on the instrument cluster gauge than I thought it should. I cranked the engine with the spark plugs removed, on a fully charged battery, and verified I had oil on the dip stick. It took two crank session about 30 seconds each, and THAT is a long crank time!! Oil pressure finally hit the gauge.Keep in mind that cranking it with the starter is an RPM slower that what an idle RPM would be so oil pressure may not show as if it were idle at 850 or 900 RPMs.A t-chain break at idle may not have caused a piston to smack a valve. A compression check or leakdown test should tell you if there is any bent valves.Did you prime the oil pump with oil or vaseline?Did you crank it with the spark plugs removed?How may seconds have you cranked it continuously?Gnarls.
Did you get the spacers and oil pump engagement gears correctly installed on the snout of the crank?
I keep seeing people talking about spacers but idk what anyone is talking about. All that came off was the sprocket and the gear gor the pump and that's all that came with the kit. Am I supposed to space it???Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
If the splined spacer is on backwards, no splines will engage the oil pump.
How much oil is showing on the dipstick?What weight oil did you put in?What kind and part number of the new oil filter did you install?How many miles on this engine?If you have a fully charged battery with injector fuse pulled, coil wire disconnected, spark plugs removed, removed the rocker cover, and you spin the engine for about 1 minute, and you don't see any oil in the rocker rack or get oil pressure, there is an issue with the pump or the oil is not being picked up in the pan. Usually, for a timing chain to break on 22, the plastic chain guides need to fail. If one fails, usually on the driver's side, the chain will slap against the timing cover and the noise at start up is very obvious.When you pulled the oil pan did you find any pieces of chain or pieces of chain guide?The oil flow on a 22 is from the oil pan pick up tube directly to the oil filter. If the new oil filter is dry, then the oil is not being picked up from the pan.Gnarls.
The dual row timing kit comes with a double-row tooth gear for the crank that's thicker/longer than than single row and a spline engagement spacer that's shorter/thinner than stock.If the splined spacer is on backwards, no splines will engage the oil pump.If the woodruff key is missing for the splined spacer the spacer may not spin with the crank, then not spin the oil pump.
I am thinking about slapping the old pump on today and seeing if that is the problem Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
The Toyota factory oil pump is very high quality oil pump. I recently replaced the pump from the engnbldr kit with the original factory pump and it works perfect.I am not a fan of the dual timing chains or the high pressure oil pumps for a basically stock engine. In all 3 of my 22s, I never had any issues with oil pressure(the 1st two had an AutoMeter mechanical oil pressure gauge) and all of them were running the factory oil pumps. I live in Arizona at between 1100 and 1500 feet elevation, and of course we have the 100+ temperatures during the summer season.If you install the old oil pump, I recommend pouring some motor oil in the gears just enough to coat them. You don't want oil dripping out the gear cavity when you go to install it back onto the block.What is your ambient air temperature right now?Unless the engine has been sitting months before doing this t-chain replacement, I would not be overly concerned about spinning the engine to get oil pressure up and causing any damage. If the engine starts and after a 30 seconds, you cannot see oil pressure, then I'd shut it off and find out what's going on.Gnarls.
From what I’ve read it seems like you weren’t far from being able to remove the head. With that kind of failure, I think I would have just pulled the head. With all the guess work and experimenting that’s happening, something is wrong, tear it down and find it, I read your strapped, I get it but it is probably one of the most inexpensive motors to rebuild. And it doesn’t sound like it’s your daily so take your time and buy parts when you can. I’ve done the same thing and ultimately ended up tearin em down, we have rebuilt several 22 r/re and we just kinda figured short cuts led nowhere... sorry, hope it works out well for you! Just my 2...
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Could this oil just be the drain back from the filter? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
If the oil pump has oil in it, it is probably pumping.Why do you believe there is no oil pressure? I have a gut feeling you have plenty of pressure but whatever gauge you are looking is not working.If you run the engine for 30 seconds and then remove the rocker cover and there fresh oil sitting in the head and all over the cam shaft and rockers.... it's pumping oil.Why is the oil so dirty? If you put in 5 quarts of fresh oil, it should be very fresh looking?Gnarls.
With where you are at now, I would do a compression check, and see what you get. No point in completing the assessmbly if you have a compression issue due to a bent valve. Would also check the valve lash, and see if they need adjusting.
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Topic: New timing chain on 22re now no oil pressure (Read 2899 times)