Topic: Extended slip front drive shaft in a DD, anyone running one?

[andykrow]

Looking for what people are using that can be balanced and is suitable for 65+ mph with the hubs locked.

The driveshaft shop i talked to wants to basically build me a new shaft out of Spicer components for ~$500. He says nothing is available anymore to simply extend the slip for my Toyota shaft. He also advised away from heavy duty "off-road only" shafts, saying that the splines will have play in them and they will be super chattery at speed. He didn't name any companies but it does make sense. He says the Spicer stuff will be as strong as the Toy gear, and he will be able to fully balance it.

I have yet to get a second opinion, but this guy does the best work in Northern CO, and I'm very happy with the work he did on my rear CV toyota shaft.

Both Allpro and Low Range have advised me that the $300 extended slip kits they both sell should not be used how I want, as it cannot be balanced. That would also end up costing me over $500 out the door.

I don't need anything too intense, I'm running 35s with no plans to go any larger, and I'm light on gas pedal and geared very low.  The Spicer shaft is looking tempting. Does anyone have experience with the Marlin heavy duty?

[Willard]

Two words, TOM WOODS!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[andykrow [OP]]

Talked to another reputable shop: Spicer slip joint with 7" useable travel, can be balanced, can keep the Toyota CV end but he will replace all components, $300 out the door. Plus one-day turnaround.

I think that's my move unless there's a better idea. I know Tom Wood's is great stuff but I can't get it at that price...

[Willard]

I paid around 400 for a complete new shaft 10" slip balanced with 1310 joints and Toyota flanges. Also why would you want to drive 65 with your hubs locked in JW.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[andykrow [OP]]

Colorado in winter, lots of random spots to go into 4wd on ice/snow, and I don't want to be futzing with the hubs all the time. It's not that I want to actually be in 4wd at that speed, it's just that often the hubs stay locked for most of the winter.

[joeyf]

I have had good luck with the one all-pro has. Run them front and rear on the wheeler and the DD 4runner.

[andykrow [OP]]

Good to hear the the Allpro slip is quality. But, I don't know why the Allpro slip is $300? Maybe because it isn't Spicer?

Anyway comparing that to $300 for all the work with new slip, new u-joints, rebuilt CV, and thicker tube I just had to go with the local shop. It will have a 1310 at the diff but that should be fine for my use.

[Rockcrawlintoy]

The Toyota joints are stronger. No reason not to run them. They should be able to use the Toyota yoke at the diff as well.

[andykrow [OP]]

I believe I have to run the 1310 because of the yoke that comes with the new slip? Or is that incorrect?

[Dingman.]

With spicer components you will use 1310.

With that said, all i have ever ran is heavy duty long spines and toyota joints/yokes/flanges.  Yes they can make noise at speed, i just grease mine and it shuts up.  I have not felt mine vibrate ever.  However, i do not run extended highway speeds, and i wouldn't feel confident driving my wheeler 60mph in situations i may need 4wd because of snow or ice.

[H8PVMNT]

I have an allpro long slip up front that I have been running for years.  They aren't bad at all if you keep the grease in them.  That being said I have had no reason ever to run 4WD at that kind of speed.  I have spun the driveshaft to 65-70 mph just because I had m hubs in but if you have a rear traction device and decent tires you just don't need highway speed 4WD.  In fact they handle better on ice in 2WD.  I live in north-central MT where we have 5 months of winter and all kinds of crummy roads.

I have a rear shaft made with the spicer stuff.  It has been fine, but the Toyota parts are bigger and better.  Only advantage I have had with the spicer shaft is availability of u-joints anywhere.

[andykrow [OP]]

Noise isn't so much an issue. With 35 inch mud tires, no carpet and open exhaust the highway is a noisy experience already. the concern is vibration.

What are you using for the extended slip?

Colorado tends to have lots of areas that don't melt out, but if the sun can get to a spot it will be dry. So some areas are just ice all winter. It's very predictable and I pretty much know where the ice is going to be. I'm not cruising at highway speeds and then "oh crap! Ice!"

As I said I pretty much just leave the hubs locked all winter, and getting above 50 mph happens on a daily basis. 65+ occasionally. I suppose I could just lock and unlock all the time but I'm lazy. 

[andykrow [OP]]

Let me reiterate, NOT trying to drive highway speeds in 4wd. I just like to have the hubs locked. Plenty of use for that where I live, even just getting moving on an icy hill and then popping it back into 2wd.

So what I want is 2wd, hubs locked, smooth operation.

Anyway the shaft is built with spicer, picking it up now. Looks awesomely burly and the price is great. Will get it up to speed soon and see how it does

[H8PVMNT]

I'll bet it will be nice and smooth with nice new stuff. The slip is 7", is it long enough for your front droop? Let us know!

[andykrow [OP]]

Shop said 7 inches "useable" slip so presumably there's some extra extension in there just in case. I have it set up for 2" compression and 5" extension, should be more than enough from my measurements.

Anyway I'll get her twisted up this weekend and report back

[dustingro]

New to No. Colorado and also in need of a front driveline. Who did you go with?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[andykrow [OP]]

Northern Colorado Driveline out of Greeley. If you are near Boulder there is Drive Line Service of Boulder. I'm in Fort Collins and there is nothing in town here. I have had both those guys do work for me and they both know their stuff and usually have one day turnaround or better.

The Greeley place was able to keep my Toyota CV in place, and the boulder dude seemed to think he needed to build a whole new driveshaft with a Spicer CV which was going to cost $200 more. Glad I called Greeley... I have yet to wheel it but the driveshaft does look great and the spline section looks super burly. Of course there's a 1310 on it now so I suppose it is weaker compared to what I took off. If I blow that joint up a couple of times I will pick up the Allpro unit most likely.

EDIT: I didn't get more info but it's possible the boulder joint was going to build a driveshaft with 1350s. He did note that we was worried about operating angle with the CV joint and iirc that is an issue with 1350s (?)

[andykrow [OP]]

The highway test is mostly a success. Got her up to about 60, hubs locked in 2wd, with only very slight vibration. Enough that I don't think I'll care. Any thoughts on if a very slight vibration can cause damage to output or pinion bearings?

Not much I can do to get rid of it other than a high pinion and/or cut and turn. Gonna be a while before I have funds for that...