0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Wheel width can. My 10s stick out the full 2 inches on each side beyond what 8s would do because I have the backspacing as far in as possible.
You sure You want to go to 37's, I feel they are at the max of what Toyota axles can handle. If your interested in budget wheeling (no breakage if built well) I would recommend 35's. Ask the other boys as I am sure they will chime in with there opinions, but I believe 35's are perfect and 37's will result in broken parts on the regular. Also I believe you can go anywhere with 35's that you would with 37's, But 37's do look much better. Have we seen a picture of your truck yet?Post a picture bro.
I run steel 15x8 2.5 back spacing, no spacers. 37 12.5 Mtrs tuck up into wheel wells perfect, never had a cop harass me.Just remember you can't beadlock a 2.5 backspacing rim
Another point on Wheel width... A 10" wide wheel will be more prone to popping a bead than an 8" wide wheel.
But running a 10" inch wheel doesn't necessarily mean you get a bead popping death sentence. I generally run in the 10-12 psi range unless I think going lower will make the difference and then I'll run as low as 8 psi without too much worry. I think my old BFG KMs were at risk of losing bead at around 7 psi.If you're wanting to consistently less below 9 psi and will be wheeling in really rugged terrain that will be working your sidewalls then going with an 8" wheel could be the difference between wheeling or messing with a tire.I prefer the added track width of the 10s and have never lost a bead. SqWADoosh is very much pro 8s but is now running wheel spaces on all four corners and loves the track width. Lots of ways to skin the cat...
Started by BOYWTOY New Member Check-In!
Started by landwagon New Member Check-In!
Started by 1Knucklehead New Member Check-In!
Started by Raacord New Member Check-In!
Started by 83 toytoy New Member Check-In!