If you have power to the switch and from the switch to the lights, the issue is the ground situation at the lights. If the lights are mounted on your new roll bar, that is your problem. The bed of the truck doesn't provide a strong enough grounding source, you will need to run a good sized ground wire(10 gauge or two 12 gauge wires will work) from the light bar down to the frame. You could either wrap the ground wire around the bolts that you use to bolt the roll bar to the bed, or from the lights down to a bolt on the frame. If no oem bolt is in reach, you could use a self tapping bolt or screw, if you don't have access to welder.
As mentioned it is always best to use a relay when running anything with a hi-amp draw. Even though the switch is rated to 30amps, running a relay will save the switch from burning out, and it allows you to piggy back off the an oem power supply, since you only need a little amount of amps to trigger the relay. If you aren't aware of how to wire up a relay, here is crude diagram.
The switch was set-up to get is power from the low beams, but any 12vlt source(keyed or constant) would work. Since you already have the switch wired from the battery, leave that in place, and either run a new line to the relay, or use the leads that went from the switch to the lights. It isn't shown in the drawing but you need to put an fuse(30amp) between the battery and the relay.
