Is '83 still 1st gen?
There is more to it that using the same cross member and u-bolts if it is. I put a w56 in my '81 about a year ago. Totally worth it I must add. Here is what I remember (I had some pics posted from photobucket but account went inactive and have wiped computer since and lost them). If you really want I can take some more.
1.
either reverse switch or speedometer plug is different. I think reverse switch => I either removed switch from l52 and put in w56 or cut plugin off 1st gen truck and used w56 plug??? Also look at the clutch slave cylinder mount I think these are different as well. I think you may have to take one off the 3rd gen truck??? Just for extra support some of the trucks have a 2 braces that go between engine block and tranny....these are cast triangle looking things. Grab them off 3rd gen and put on 1st gen if not there already and option in available. Also check your fluid (tranny and transfer case (seprate compartments in w56)
2.Put in new pilot bearing and clutch kit
2.Minor floor cutting in front. (sealed everything up with silicone after first flooding out cab going through water in town)
3.Measure carefully for step 4.
4.x-member bolt holes will not align with 1st gen holes due to 1st gen frame being narrower.....hence I could not figure out how u-bolts would work. 79coyotefrg had suggested this to me also. => Bolted through two pieces of angle iron on each side to hang x-member. I cut x-member even with outer frame and welded 1/4" angle iron to the cut surface. Welded another piece of angle iron to frame. Drill holes first.
5.I had a hell of a time getting the w56 input shaft to go in my pilot bearing good luck. Got about 25k miles and no noise so I guess it's OK.
6. Bolt it up. Use 2-3ft extensions from underside of truck for upper tranny bolts (easier than reaching through cut metal hole in cab).
7. I though I was done here but guess what......... I was wrong. 3rd gen trucks have beefier drivetrains (bolt holes for u-joint flange onto rear end and front end). There are many options here.
a. use 3rd gen drivetrain and drill out holes in 1st gen rearend and frontend flange.
b.use 1st gen drivetrain flanges on 3rd gen drivetrain.
c.Use inner shaft from 1st gen and outer shaft from 3rd gen.
d.probably others
When I say flange I mean the two plates that the drive shaft bolts go through. Sorry for the poor verbage.
I believe this is correct (can't remember everything). I took option 3 it seemed the easiest, but I think the now the u-joint or bolts size or something is different at the tranny vs the rearend on my truck.
Just get both driveshafts and figure it out. I can remember may have even just used late model drivetrain with 1st gen flange (buy new u-joints in this case). I can assure though that the flange on the 3rd gen will require grinding due to some of the casting protruding out on face that bolts against rearend (this doesn't interfere on 3d gen due to flange size difference and is why I know I did not go down this path). I know I had to put u-joints in to rear drive shaft due to piecing together between the early and late model (front or rear I cannot remember) and I used the 1st gen inner and 3rd gen outer on front shaft (I'm sure of this as I remember them being very tight due to 1st gen inner shaft being in rough shape on mine).
Make sure there is no interference during flex/suspension movement.
8. Remove the cool old school shifter knob from l52 and put it on the w56 and go raise some hell.
Aside, I've got about 2" lift and and Goodyear all terrains....when my gauge says 60 i'm really going 70..........learned that one the hard way.
Good luck and let me know if you want me take some pics. I think this was all the issues I ran into....It helps to have the 3rd gen truck close by if you need some parts off it. I remember having to pull crap off it that I had not planned on needing.
