Author Topic: School me on car audio stuff  (Read 16813 times)

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blackdiamond

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Re: School me on car audio stuff
« Reply #30 on: Dec 30, 2008, 10:05:38 PM »
JBL 4 incher specs (dash)

Power Handling, RMS 50 Watts
Power Handling, Peak 150 Watts
Sensitivity 91dB 
Frequency Response (±3dB) 75Hz - 23kHz
Impedance 2 Ohms



Pioneer 6x9s in boxes specs

Specifications
Watts MAX. Music Power 440 Watts
Watts Nominal Power Handling (RMS) 80 Watts
Frequency Response 25Hz ~ 33kHz
Sensitivity (1W/1m) 93dB
Ohm Rating 4 ohm


What can be told by these in respect to the power I should be looking for in an amp?


And what is up with the two different ohm readings? 2 for the small ones and 4 for the big ones?

Have you ever heard the term "KISS" for "keep it simple stupid?"

If you're planning to run your four main speakers from an amp, the power of your head unit means nothing since the power isn't directly driving the speakers.  As long as you don't have an amp (or head unit if hooked up directly) that has significantly more power available than your speakers can handle you won't have to worry about it at non painful listening volumes.

Concert volume is somewhere around 96 dB and your speakers will produce 91 & 92 dB sounds with 1 watt input, this is what the sensitivity rating means.  If you had a 4 channel amp for the four main speakers that was rated in the 50 to 100 watts per channel (200 to 400 watts total) you'll NEVER have a problem.  Quality is more important than power.

Legacy makes amps that have high ratings but yield crappy sound.  I've owned a 20 watt AIWA shelf stereo that sounded WAY better than a similar 100 watt Pioneer.
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