Welcome to the board...I think Marlin's is the best (brownnosing).
1. 39's are kinda big...some people run them but in my opinion they put too much strain on the drivetrain...i'm not going any larger than 35's or 36's. That aside, the front shackle should be vertical or leaning slightly back, not forward...you won't have much downward travel with your current setup.
2.
This is my quick illustration of a Drop draglink...you should have one of these, not just a straight arm. With this drop draglink, the ends are level, eliminating the binding that would exist between a straight draglink and the pitman arm/ steering arm (with any decent amount of suspension lift). The red arrows indicate where we made our cuts to lengthen the draglink, putting rod inside (to bridge the gap and reinforce the tube). Drill holes in the tube near the cuts and weld through into the rod for added strength, remember, if this comes apart you'll lose steering control. Green indicates welding areas, the orange gussets are added for strength, if possible.
There's a difference between Highsteer crossover steering, and regular crossover steering. If you have or can get an IFS steering box, you can run a draglink sideways over the top of the springs to the passenger-side steering arm, which will need to be modified...but this is a cheap way to eliminate the HORRIBLE bumpsteer you currently have with that much lift and a modified but basically stock-style draglink. There's links to this cheap setup on here, i don't remember right now but i'm sure someone on here would be happy to point you in the right direction. The tierod will still be in it's stock position under the springs, but hey...it'll be alot better than what you have now.
Personally, i would NEVER have that much lift...sure, it looks cool...but it won't seem cool when the roof of your truck is crushed down into your girlfriend's head after a rollover...you've got a really high center-of-gravity right now. Be VERY careful when turning, especially when on uneven ground.
3. With Toyota's, if the rear lights are unplugged, the front lights won't work at all, and visa-versa. If the turn signal indicator in the dash remains on steady, both bulbs are burned out, if it flashes fast one bulb is burned out. Pretty cool actually.
