Author Topic: high steer and scout steering  (Read 3633 times)

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Marlin

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Re: high steer and scout steering
« on: Apr 02, 2004, 08:45:08 PM »
A good rule of thumb is to keep the pitman arm the same length as the high steer arm, [one to one ratio], however many trucks have a longer pitman arm that would make the wheels turn quicker.
I have not been a big fan of chevy tie rod ends because they use a smaller thread [7/8" compared to the larger 23x1.50] and the head of the end is also larger. The FJ80 ends are available right and lefthand thread and have proven very dependable.
We can supply our arms with the chevy taper.
The factory axles use a 8 7/8" ring and pinion [GM 12 bolt] that GM sold the rights to in 1956. You must upgrade the birfield joint to a aftermarket unit.
Your sucess will depend on how you drive your truck. If you are worried about breaking then I would advise Rockwell 2 1/2 ton axles. I have seen many Dana 60's and even Unimogs go south under heavy throttle.

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

 
 
 
 
 

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