Yup, all you've gotta do is remove the vacuum line that runs to the diaphragm on the EGR itself. Make sure to plug the vacuum line (on the intake side) to avoid vacuum leaks.
I have heard pros and cons about how the ECU is programmed with the crappy exhaust gases being recirculated into the intake heating everything up and that with the EGR disabled, it will actually get worse performance, but I have never seen a dyno sheet to back up this claim. Back in the days with my MR2, I remember installing a simple open/closed switchable vacuum solenoid in that vacuum line that runs to the EGR diaphragm, and I would run it up to 100 a couple of times with the switch turned on and off and I could not notice any difference in power, but what was nice about disabling the EGR is that the ENTIRE intake plenum would actually be cool to the touch, where as before it would be almost too hot to touch.
Another good thing to have is a restriction on the hot water supply to your throttle body. I use a simple brass 1/4" water pipe valve which I set at about 90% closed. This allows for enough hot water to get to the throttle body to not disrupt the "Warm" condition idle, but little enough water that after about 10 seconds of driving the throttle body has cooled back down since there is not enough heat dissipation from the "controlled" hot water supply to the throttle body. And since the throttle body is connected to the intake plenum, now there is NOTHING left to heat up the intake manifold except for the cylinder head, which of course is at the end of the plenum anyhow.
That combined with a water/alcohol mist system and you will start to see condensation forming on the outside of your intake plenum as it cools itself to apprx. 40-50 degrees F, even on a hot summer day in the sun light.
Man those were the days......
