Author Topic: Need Help: R Tranny Basics (long)  (Read 1801 times)

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Marlin

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Re:Need Help: R Tranny Basics (long)
« on: Jan 31, 2004, 09:14:40 PM »
Well, it a little long winded :sleeping: but you did a good job :bowdown:

As the 1/2 shift hub is moved by the fork to enguage into the drive teeth on the side of the 1st gear, it has to move across a brass syncrow ring which is spinning the same speed as the 1/2 hub thanks to 3 evenly spaced syncrow keys.The 1st gear also has a male 30 degree hub that matches the 30 degree female taper found on the inner side of the syncrow ring. This system works very good by slowing down, or speeding up the hub or gear before the teeth enguage.
 
There are two ways to get a lower gear ratio--
1. Put fewer teeth on constant run teeth of the input gear, (this would make it smaller), and more teeth on the front constant run teeth of the countershaft. These added teeth would make the counstant run gear larger to keep the same case centers. This would underdrive the countershaft and make all gear ratios on the shaft turn slower.
2. Put fewer teeth on the countershaft 1st gear, and more teeth on the matching 1th mainshaft gear.

Remember by making a gear smaller,there are fewer teeth enguaged and as a result, weaker.

Hope this helps, and you are still awake--

Marlin
1980 Toyota - 1997 3RZ-FE 2.7l Engine, Turbo R151F 4.31:1, Triple Turbo Marlin Crawler Billet (2.28x4.70x4.70) = 1,148:1 Crawl Ratio, Marlin Crawler Twin Stick and Short Throw Shift Kits, 30mm H/D Output Shaft, High Angle Drive Lines, 5.29:1, ARBs, High Pinion Front, 25mm HD Billet High Steer Kit, 6 Pin Locking Hub Bodies, 86+ Wide Rear End, V6 3rd member, Chromolly Axles all around, 37" IROKs with Beadlocks, York onboard air - Rollbar air tank, Premier Power Welder, Marlin Crawler 4" USA-made Leaf Springs, Bilstein Shocks, et cetera....

 
 
 
 
 

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