Topic: Message #1141321

[Gnarly4X]

Hope you get to working on your truck soon!

Remflex's description of the 7002 says "for header applications." I asked them at the time if I wanted the 7002 or 7010 and never heard a response, so I just went with the 7002. The 7002 says it has "EGR Gaskets" included but I think they are talking about external piping for carb applications, not the manifold gasket (clearly.) It is a little misleading.

I noticed during this swap that the shop that assembled this stuff used 4 bolts and 4 studs on the exhaust, rather than 8 studs. With the Remflex it did not matter, it only gets torqued to 20 ft/lbs. But, with the "normal" gasket, I was a bit scared to torque up to 35 ft/lbs. I don't think you can tighten that far into aluminum although I could be wrong. I did not want to risk it. So, there is a slight leak at the flange that maybe would be gone at 35 ft/lbs, i don't even notice it with the radio on. But I will order up some toyota studs when I get the 7010 gasket. Another benefit of the remflex is that it is a thicker gasket, easily double a stock gasket, so if you cut out the unnecessary gasket material between the exhaust and EGR ports, you will be making an even larger channel for the EGR flow.

I plan on using a lock washer and standard nut instead of the crimped self-locking nuts.

My experience with my 3 22s may be different from others.  First, I do not torque the header nuts to spec.  Just like I do not torque the spark plugs to 25 psi, for spark plugs I do not use any never-seize, just a very light spray of silicon on just the top of the threads.

On the heads and nuts....I have posted my opinion on this a number times on a number Toy sites.  I do not believe the bolts into the head is better in any way.... unless someone can explain the benefits over stud/nuts, but I always keep an open mind.  The alloy head and the steel studs have different coefficients of thermal expansion and cause the alloy threads inside the head to "powder" and corrode. When you torque the factory clamping style nuts, they will twist the stud inside head.. now your screwed!!  The main reason people experience header or manifold leaks is they don't take the proper steps to check and keep the nuts tightened or there is flatness problem with the head or header/exhaust manifold - I switched to non-clamping hex nuts and lock washer years ago.  I'm not saying the factory nuts don't work for some people, they just never worked for me.  And having to drill-tap-helicoil the exhaust threads in 22 head on the truck is extremely painful for me.

Regarding the DT header, unless they have changed, I had to have the mating flange to head machined to make them flat.

I've been teased about my perceived over-analyzing and excessive question-asking most of my life, but I'm too often not completely satisfied with the incomplete information I get from many sources - especially in the aftermarket supply world in the automotive industry.

Perhaps I'm a slow-learner... even though I have 5 years of college, a Mensa IQ, and extensive ongoing self-education, I'm an old fart.  Being "smart" doesn't mean you know how to properly rebuild a 1986 22RE engine... ask me how I know! 

That's just my opinion - it may be worthless.

Gnarls.