Update: After 10min of twisting/turning I decided to remove the bottom hose. Still had to twist a bit but I avoided removing the shroud which was my primary goal. My FSM says to remove the shroud. Guessing it will easily slide out with shroud removed. At least it gave me an opportunity to inspect the coolant.
Also, the parts store Alternator had clearance issues for the tension guide/rail. The clearance seemed off by a hair under 1/8". The rail is solid and doesn't move. So I put the old one back in and it easily slide past the rail. Tried measuring everything for differences but couldn't find anything. All I know is that it would not go on. And it is back on the parts store shelf now. Not sure who the manufacturer was but it had a sticker that said Rebuilt in Malaysia so who knows what is going on.
I am tempted to just pony up for the 140Amp Alternator from LCE that is a direct fit replacement.
http://www.lceperformance.com/High-Output-Alternator-140-Amp-1985-1992-22R-22RE-p/1080005.htmAnyway, has anybody else had problems with non-OEM alternators and clearances? I don't wanna go to another parts store and run into the same things. Not that it matters but the one I tried was from O'Reilly. I usually get parts from Napa, but I was feeling lazy and didn't wanna drive since its further.
I'm wanting to jump the Amperage since I have other things draining power, winch, radio, CB, Air Locker. And who knows what I am gonna want to add in the future that will want more power.
Any other input out there?