This weekend was filled with fitment. Layout, align, trim... repeat. Over and over until I got it. I still have to hog out the steering box holes just a bit to allow enough play to get the bolts in and out without any binding but the steering box has now been relocated over 2" forward to accommodate the RUF front axle relocation. I'm really please with the clearance between the pitman arm and the tie rod. I'll have to get a flat pitman to clear the spring under compression which is better anyway. NOTE: The bolts provided in the steering box brace kit fit really snug as do the sleeves/bolts. Ensuring absolute square is imperative or when you get it all in place, the bolts won't go through box, outer plate, outer frame, inner frame, and inner plate. I found this is trickier than anticipated.
So in case this information ever assists others in moving the steering box forward, here's what I did. After figuring out +/- where the box needed to go I started poking around on the core support with a small drill bit. putting small holes from the outside marking limits of cuts. You have to be cautious not to hit the AC line located forward of the core support. Luckily, this line is just above the area I needed to clearance for the box. While doing this I found the core support in this area is double wall and the body mount and gussets on the outside can be salvaged entirely with no evidence of clearance work from outside the engine bay.
I placed the box in place (as close as I could) and marked the size on the core support. I just used a die grinder and carved out a small rectangle area to slide the box into. Be careful with the die grinder to only cut through the first layer of sheet metal. I went deep along my top cut and have to weld that back up.
Once I had the rough hole cut I slid the box in and had to trim again for a better fit. Once I got into this mode, I kept sliding it in further for better and better fit, making small trim cuts each time. I found that for my best fitment I had to trim off the inside of the body mount turndown gusset but not enough to render it useless. I also trimmed the inner fender to allow the box to clear better and get in in and out easier.
I found that once I cleared everything off the inner wall of the double wall core support, I had enough room to adjust the box angle to either use flat pitman or use the drop. I was able to get a far better fit with a flat arm and the steering shaft angle is still acceptable. I did drill a 1" hole through the core support for additional clearance on the box where there is a casting "hump". I also did a little massaging with a couple hammers. Turned out to be rather unnecessary but nothing touches. I tried to get good pictures to show the areas of clearance to assist others. I know a common comment is "I wish I would have moved it further forward" so with that in mind I took all I could get.
Also found once the box was relocated, the steering shaft was going to make contact with the inner fender so I trimmed out a small window at the contact area and had to do some creative sheet metal work around the flex joint as well. I'll have to add a couple inches to the steering shaft next.
The pictures show the conflict with the box and the spring keepers, those will be moved inboard on the pack with added leafs.
Once I get off the steering box I'll move into placing the mounts for the hydro assist. I think there's got to be a better way than described in the installation instructions for clearance. If anyone has shots of their assist mounts, I welcome the advice.
