Big mike-
I found this thread online in my quest to find a replacement for a 22r in my Datsun 720.
It has bad rings. I could hone it and re-ring. But that doesn't fix the grotesque under power issue.
Hello Datsun 720!
to
land
You will definitely be impressed with the 3RZ-FE. Look at
this Dyno sheet comparing the difference between a tired fuel injected 22R-E and a distributor-type 3RZ-FE. The 3RZ-FE is already making nearly 40 more ft-lbs at the bottom end -- and from my experience the 22R & 22R-E were always praised for their bottom end grunt.
As for the wiring you'll be happy to know that 75% of the job is already done for you by Toyota. In
this reply #5 I briefly discussed how the majority of the engine's electrical equipment runs straight to the ECU via one large harness, and all that is remaining to wire -- the only wiring that you'll have to do
-- are the gauges, ignition/starter, alternator, fuel pump, and battery. Technically speaking all you really need to wire in is the ignition, fuel pump, battery, and connect a few grounds (engine, opening circuit relay, clutch start cancel or automatic park/neutral switch) and it will fire up on it's own. The point being that it's a pretty self-contained system. I've replaced a few 22R-Es with 3RZ-FEs and the wiring from the 22R-E is much more complicated, ie. has two separate engine harnesses passing through opposing sides of the firewall, and generally just more going on that is not contained as is with the 3RZ-FE.
Of course this is a basic explanation, as you'll need to integrate your chassis's ignition ON with the engine's ignition ON circuits, integrate or eliminate the driver's side under the dash fuse box, and route wiring harnesses back for your O2 sensors/fuel pump, forward for the Igniter/AFM, give the ECU a brake signal, install a Check Engine light somewhere (unless the 720 already has one despite not being EFI?), wire in A/C clutch pulley to the foreign 720 chassis harness, or cruise control setups, if applicable, et cetera, remove unneeded circuits such as air bags, ABS, and shared fuse box circuits such as your headlights, horn, blinkers, brake lamp, radio, et cetera, but these are basic requirements no matter the conversion as you are well aware.
Especially running 37's and stock 4.10 gears.
Man, 37" tires, 4.10:1 gearing, and a carbureted 22R. Coming from someone who has replaced a 22R with a 3RZ-FE, I just don't know how you do it!
Kudos to you however, no doubt you've got a lot of love and passion into your 22R and it's awesome that you even considered swapping that into your 720 to begin with
Since the age of 2, I was raised on a 20R, then 22R, then 22MAR (22R block with 20R head). But as early on as 33" tires we already had 5.29:1 diff gearing!
Was it just simple, power for his ground for that, ignition, kinda stuff.
Absolutely, except for two things I can quickly think of:
1) An electronic fuel pump. You don't have one of those, or at least not one that develops 40+ psi. For us Hilux guys it is easy to just remove the carbureted fuel tank and replace it with a 1985-1995 EFI fuel tank, which is almost a direct bolt-in deal, and also entails new high-pressure fuel hard-lines to be routed. I don't know anything about the 720 but I'd first look at later model Datsun's to see if there is a EFI fuel tank that nearly bolts in place of yours. There is the option of running an external, in-line electric fuel pump, and while I don't have experience with these, I much prefer to have the pump submerged in the tank so that it is protected & gains significant cooling from the surrounding liquid for much improved life expectancy. Also tanks are designed with recirculate bowls and baffles so that even on steep angles you will have fuel pressure. I'm not sure on the reliability of external pumps and steep inclines. Again, I don't have experience with them, but if the pick-up hose sucks air and the pump's displacement is interrupted, there goes the power needed to get outta that steep incline (I assume it takes much longer to re-prime itself given that -- being external -- it is a certain distance away from the liquid). I just feel that all modern fuel pumps are in-tank pumps for a reason, so that is how I wanted mine done. And if you can find a Datsun tank with integrated electronic pump than it's all the merrier.
2) I do not know if the 720 has an integrated vehicle speed sensor which is required for the 3RZ-FE. Us Hilux guys are fortunate that by 1979 Toyota was experimenting with "poor-man's EFI" systems where a temp sensor near the catalytic convertor would alter the fuel mixture at the carburetor. This was done based on the vehicle's speed and therefore all 1979-1989 carbureted Toyota trucks have an integrated vehicle speed sensor built right into the speedometer unit itself. So we keep our mechanical speedometer cable and are able to take a VSS signal from the instrument cluster and wire it up to the 3RZ-FE ECU. Without any prior experience with the 720, if push comes to shove with this then maybe you could get a dual speedometer drive adapter -- they are hard to find but I've seen them -- where the speedometer output on your transmission (or t/case; however Datsun does it) is split into two ports where you reattach your factory speedometer cable to one port and then *maybe* use
our mechanical-to-electrical VSS adapter *if* Datsun happens to use the same 22x1.50mm thread diameter and pitch, or you can find an dual port adapter that does. Then you can retain your original mechanical speedo cable but also have a digital speed signal available for the 3RZ-FE.
Other than that I can't think of any thing that is too serious for the conversion. Be sure to get the fuel pump harness & O2 sensor harness (there are two O2 sensors), which are often forgotten about and it's very nice to have all the original plugs and looms to make the job a bit less painful. I also grabbed the interior Cowl/Dash harness, which isn't required, but it was nice to have many factory wires that I cut and used to keep all the original wire colors consistent.
Please if you still have any of that info on the wiring to upload, please post it.
I know I made mention of this a few time during my swapping days but I never translated my notes to the computer and to try to think about it all now is futile. 4RnrRick and Nation have both posted the most amount of wiring info that I've seen (however I know 4RnrRick deleted his photos, and actually I'm not even sure where his swap thread is....
)
...2RZ's (142 hp and 160 ft. lbs. trq) are the little brothers of the 3RZ (150 hp and 177 trq) ... 8 hp less.
2RZ-FE will be cheaper however Torque is king and it's near 20-lb ft less torque figure is a deal breaker for me.
Id say that the Dizzied 3RZ may be an over all cheaper swap....but I may be wrong..
One very important convenience with the 1995-1997 single-coil 3RZ-FE is that it uses the same standard round charcoal canister that Toyota has used since at least 1979. My 1995 3RZ-FE has the same diameter charcoal canister as my 1987 MR2 and as my 1981 Hilux. I was able to mount the 3RZ-FE canister in the same exact factory 1981 location using my original 1981 canister bracket, plus finding a replacement is a piece of cake. If anyone is familiar with Toyota truck engines this side of 1997, then you'll know that they switched to a large rectangular canister that has additional vacuum lines and electric solenoids. What's worse is that on 2000+ 3RZ-FE's, the canister is no longer mounted in the engine compartment and must instead be mounted near the gas tank (for emissions testing/approval purposes -- which may not apply to you), meaning you have additional wire harnesses and vacuum lines that must be routed to the canister and it's solenoids way back at your gas tank. So dumb.
Ok I gotta run. Let me know what you think about all this and best of luck with your 3RZ-FE endeavors!
My 3RZ-FE powered full-bodied truck with camping gear in the bed vs. a 22R-E Formula Toyota Buggy. Enjoy.
