Author Topic: What fluid should i use in my freshly rebuilt r-150f for my t100  (Read 415 times)

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Eft100

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hello just wondering what fluid you guys recommended i use  in my freshly rebuilt r-150f for T100

Gnarly4X

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https://www.marlincrawler.com/chemicals/red-line-mt-90-synthetic-gear-oil

I've used Redline MTL and Mobil 1 Synthetic gear oil... all worked better than conventional gear lube for smoother shifting.  :thumbs:

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blackdiamond

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New.

In all seriousness, the favorites are Redline MT90 and Redline MTL.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

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T-Revv

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For break in period, just run conventional 75w90 oil.  Your going to drain it out after 1000 miles so dont waste money on expensive synthetic.  After break in spend the money on the good stuff, Myself and many others at the shop here use Redline MT90.  90 weight, great synthetic oil, and it has a additive to help protect and preserve brass, so its good for the synchros. 
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WizardMaster

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I'm about to dump 80w-90 Accel for my break in period for my RF1A gear driven T-case. Then I believe I will go to 85w-90w synthetic in the end. What is the best synthetic brand? Is that a stupid question? Synthetic is synthetic right?
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere and if you get in my way, I'll run over you with my big tires, the Taco Box way...... Nice and slowwwwwwww......

LinksN4Ds

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I'm about to dump 80w-90 Accel for my break in period for my RF1A gear driven T-case. Then I believe I will go to 85w-90w synthetic in the end. What is the best synthetic brand? Is that a stupid question? Synthetic is synthetic right?

That's not a stupid question at all. A lot of people use Redline, but you'll be pretty good with a quality brand. Don't buy that crap store brand stuff, and watch out for gl-5. I hear it is bad for the syncros in the old toyota transmissions.


edit: Personally I'd never use redline. Too expensive and I have a 4l80e  :disturbed:
« Last Edit: Jul 09, 2019, 03:29:52 PM by LinksN4Ds »
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WizardMaster

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I just unloaded a 4L60E in favor of an 80's TH350. I know I made a good choice.
Yours may go fast,but, mine can go anywhere and if you get in my way, I'll run over you with my big tires, the Taco Box way...... Nice and slowwwwwwww......

blackdiamond

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That's not a stupid question at all. A lot of people use Redline, but you'll be pretty good with a quality brand. Don't buy that crap store brand stuff, and watch out for gl-5. I hear it is bad for the syncros in the old toyota transmissions.


edit: Personally I'd never use redline. Too expensive and I have a 4l80e  :disturbed:

Ever spend any time on Bob is the Oil Guy forum?  Store brand oil isn't necessarily an inferior product.  When it comes to motor oil they seem to have "weaker" additive packs which excludes them from performing well for a long oil change interval, but from what I've seen they do the job just fine for anyone changing oil in the 3-5,000 mile range with an average engine that isn't picky about the oil used.  I had a 2007 Mazdaspeed3 that was a turbo direct injection engine that was really hard on its oil so I had to run Pennzoil Platinum (the recommendation from a tribiologist (sp?) that I had analyze my oil) to have it still be good at the recommended 5,000 mile oil change interval.

I would guess that the store branch gear oils would probably do the job just fine, especially for people that changed them more frequently, but it's really hard to compare real world wear numbers with gear oils because they are changed a lot less often (i.e. far less data) with wear metals being the primary indicator.

I'm not sure that I'd exclude Redline based on price simply because it doesn't have to be changed often and it does really work well with the syncros.  I have always topped off the last partial quart with something else rather than getting another full quart of Redline.  That's where I get cheap because I'd feel guilty getting rid of new oil and don't really have a place to store it.

I don't think GL-5 will actually hurt the syncros as much as it just doesn't provide the proper level of friction for them to perform their best.  There's not a lot of options for GL-4 oils that are not also GL-5.  Redline MT90 is one of them.
1989 4Runner: Dual Ultimate (Inchworm front & Marlin 4.70 rear), Marlin Twin Stick, 1200-lb clutch, 4.88 R&P, Aussie Front, Detroit rear, 30-spline Longs, Long hub gears, ARP hub and knuckle studs & 35x12.50 Cooper STT PRO tires.  Marlin rear bumper & sliders.  FROR front bumper.  SAS with Alcan springs & Rancho 9000XL shocks.  Budbuilt Bolt-on traction bar.  Custom Interior Cage by Those Guys Rod and Customs.

Moab Tested & Rubicon Approved

 
 
 
 
 

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