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Hello folks- What's your opinion on putting the radiator flush in a old 20r engine? Am I asking for head gasket issues? it runs a little hot on the interstate during long drives when going over 65mph. If you know what the 1st gen temp gauge looks like it gets about 2/3rd the way through the white zone.....at idle and around town we sit comfortably in the middle of the white zone.....it ran hot about 4 months back when the fan belt broke on interstate. It didn't peg out but got in the red.Should I just buy a new radiator?
I would drain the radiator with heater on and put in DISTILLED water, and the flush, drive it for 3 or 4 days.
Gnarl's is braver than me. I'm scared of putting the stop leak in. But I think I will give the flush a try given the price versus that of rodding and not having a truck for a day or two. If that doesn't work I'll probably buy a new radiator and spend a little more for one without the plastic tanks.Ummm.....Is it really OK to drive it around for 3 days with that stuff in your system?.....honestly, I really don't know, just seems like a long time for that crap to chew on everything in there.
Oh so that's what all those little pieces of rubber were that I found in the radiator every time i checked the level.
I don't believe there is any "rubber" in Alumaseal.https://www.autozone.com/antifreeze-radiator-additives-and-windshield-wash-fluid/radiator-additives-and-flush/alumaseal-radiator-stop-leak/527184_0Gnarls.
Likely black RTV used on the timing cover bolts that go through the cover to the block, or debris from cheap hoses.
I'm not saying it was that particular stop leak in the engine, but now that I think of it, it was one of those rubber goober ones. I actually forgot that some people use band aid (or rather blindfold) fixes like stop leak.
I ordered the water pump. Aisin - $38 delivered Thursday or Friday. Any tricks I should know about? I was planning on putting gasket sealant on component side only, do you agree? Do most of you pull the radiator or leave installed?
Parts stores sell cooling system specific RTV. Seems to hold up better with antifreeze. I put a super light coat on both sides of the gasket. Clean the timing cover good. Clean the bolt holes and bolts up good so you get a nice even clamping load. I'd pull the radiator. It's not much work, but gives you way more space. You're already going to have the coolant drained since the water pump is coming out so it's not like you're saving any time by leaving it in.
You will want to drain and remove the radiator.Gnarls.
I can’t think of any Toyota bolt that only fastens with 3 or 4 threads. Any time you are bolting something on the block or head, especially if you have removed bolts and they could be mixed up, you should measure the depth of the bolt hole with a small screwdriver or rod. And, make sure you know exactly what else may be attached to that bolt, like a bracket.
http://www.lcengineering.com/LCInstructions/1015012_timing_chain_conversion.pdfThat should be accurate for a 20R since that's a dual row timing chain conversion kit. lists all the bolt lengths
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