Author Topic: Toybrota's 22R build  (Read 29256 times)

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Toybrota

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #600 on: May 20, 2019, 07:11:52 PM »
Spark plug number one after about 500 miles.

I went and have attempted to further tune my Weber, I have it set at about 2 1/4 turns out on the mixture screw. Which is close to the 2 1/2 turns out that is the cutoff point for swapping to a richer jet. I'm running a size 50 on both the main and idle jet.

Speed screw seems more than 1 1/2 turns in, I'll have to re-check...

I'm gonna buy a wide band Air fuel ratio gauge, so I can actually tune and see what the AFR is at idle. This narrowband is essentially useless.

Also checked again for vacuum leaks. None.

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #601 on: May 21, 2019, 05:34:46 AM »
Hey T,

So right now is appears you have done a great job on this rebuild.  In fact, one of the very best reported DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilds on a 22 Iíve tracked in quite awhile.  Machining it right, choosing the right parts, diagnosing, thinking outside the box, taking in comments and advise from others, and being committed to doing it right, really does make a difference in the outcome. :beerchug:

Iím old school so I have never used a A/FR gauge.  From my very first go-kart racing days, I learned with limited tools and gauges.  My dad was an old school auto mechanic and taught me to use what we had (back in the early 60ís)Ö our ears, eyes, and butt dyno.  :blah:

Iím very interested to see what you discover as you continue to learn and tune your engine, and especially with the purchase and comparison of a wideband A/FR gauge - for hopefully more accurate reading and tuning.  :thumbs:

On the Weber carb, I ran Webers for about 8 years on my 3 sand rails. Two things were key for keeping them happy Ė they are fussy about wanting clean fuel and clean air, and mine liked lots of air flow.  Fuel and air filters were my best friends.  The right electric fuel pump with the correct PSI was also important.  Fortunately I didnít have to spend much time ďtuningĒ them on my VW engine.  :gap:

According to the Toyota engine builders Iíve talked to, and my own experiences, peak TUNING these little engines is critical to get the very best performance.  I believe this is especially true with a carbíd engine.  :yesnod:

Gnarls.  :spin:





« Last Edit: May 21, 2019, 06:16:50 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #602 on: May 25, 2019, 10:06:01 AM »
Thanks for the kind words Gnarls, I owe a lot of my success to all the members on here that assisted me during the process of rebuilding, you all made if very easy! I've learned a lot, mostly in advice from everyone. Choosing the parts was my favorite process, less favorite to my wallet...

AFR gauges are super helpful, even though mine isn't that accurate, it has told me some things. A real honest-to-god wideband will be even better. I wanna have this thing tuned perfectly... Getting there!

I have heard from you and others on keeping the Weber happy with Clean Air and Fuel. I run two fuel filters, one back at the tank and one after the fuel pump in the engine bay. Proper fuel pressure set with my regulator. I have debated running an electric fuel pump, as some say the weber doesn't like the fuel pulsation the stock Mechanical pump produces. Huge air cleaner, tons of airflow! She breathes really well.
I am curious how these run on other engines, people seem to love these carbs on just about everything they will fit on.

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #603 on: May 25, 2019, 10:12:12 AM »
Picked up a valve cover gasket set so I can adjust/check them today. Like I mentioned earlier, there is no tick whatsoever when it's warmed up. Just when cold. So maybe I should wait? So at least one is slightly out of adjustment.
I'll be setting them how Toyota said, 0.008" intake and 0.012 exhaust. Picked up a new feeler gauge set as well. Smallest size it has is 0.008! Perfect.
If I find this is too noisy, I'll drop it a thousandth on both the intake and exhaust. I'll never go more than a thousandth lower.

The valve cover gasket I got I picked up from Baxter Auto parts in Vancouver, cool chain that I've never been to until now.
They didn't have the Beck Arnley. No one near me stocks the Beck Arnley, so I bought it on Amazon.
Why two sets? The Mahle I got is said to work for 85 and up only, the Beck Arnley is for all 20R/22R motors from what I've found.

I'm sure the Mahle will work great, at least it's not fel-pro!

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Gnarly4X

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #604 on: May 25, 2019, 11:52:22 AM »
Mahle is a high quality product.  That gasket is made out of Victo-Tech, a rubber product invented by Victor Reinz Ė a highly rated manufacturer and supplier.

I like the B/A kit because itís made in Japan and itís a good price ($9.48) from RockAuto.  If you are an Amazon Prime member, you can buy it for only for $9.62 with overnight shipping for free!


Gnarls.
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #605 on: May 30, 2019, 11:04:09 AM »
Mahle is a high quality product.  That gasket is made out of Victo-Tech, a rubber product invented by Victor Reinz Ė a highly rated manufacturer and supplier.

I like the B/A kit because itís made in Japan and itís a good price ($9.48) from RockAuto.  If you are an Amazon Prime member, you can buy it for only for $9.62 with overnight shipping for free!


Gnarls.
Agreed, very high quality. But.... I haven't been able to find the Beck Arnley anywhere stocked near me.
So I bought it on Amazon! Paid for one day shipping, but absolutely did not get it in one day. That's how it goes.

The reason I have two gasket kits is to see the differences between them. The Mahle is technically not for the early 22R motors. The Beck Arnley that I bought, is.

The main difference is the grommets on top, the ones for the later style motor don't even fit on the early. They stick out too far, preventing a valve cover nut from threading on.



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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #606 on: May 30, 2019, 11:10:14 AM »
I just got done from doing a valve adjustment on my motor. All looked well, cam appears to be wearing properly.

The valves were all set 0.001" below the factory spec, which makes sense considering that's what I set them at. Like I mentioned, I was going to set them all at factory spec. 0.008" for the intake, and 0.012" for the exhaust.

Didn't even need the new gasket kit, the half moons don't leak and are still sealed on the head. Why removed em?

As for noise, it's definitely noiser than it was before. However, it is set how it's supposed to be. So that's all that matters. I was most concerned about a valve that would only be noisy above idle, as I would be reminded every time I accelerate. Nope. They all seem to click together making for a pleasant (trying to lie to myself here so I don't adjust them again) noise. Like a sewing machine.

Maybe im just stupid, but it seems to idle smoother too. I'll upload a video of how it sounds at idle. http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5cf01c928493d/VID_30471005_181819_935.mp4

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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #607 on: May 30, 2019, 07:18:11 PM »
I went ahead and changed the copper oil pressure line over to a braided stainless line. Uses a AN fitting (is that what it's called?) And it seems very solid. The brass adapter threads into the block, followed by the braided like adapter and then the stainless line.
I used permatex thread sealant with PTFE.
Had to snug the nylon line adapter (I'm running the braided line just to get the oil pressure gauge line out of the engine area) so it didn't leak. I attached a line holder on the fender well so it's well out of the way.

I also went ahead and purchased the Permatex products Gnarls recommended for the water plate.
Permatex water pump sealant and then the high performance thread sealant for the bolts.
I'd like to tackle the water plate soon, the sooner I fix all the leaks the more time I can wait and anticipate more!


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Gnarly4X

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #608 on: Jun 02, 2019, 05:51:18 AM »
I just got done from doing a valve adjustment on my motor. All looked well, cam appears to be wearing properly.


...  but it seems to idle smoother too. I'll upload a video of how it sounds at idle.

As I've said before, I spent time with my valve lash setting and worked to get the rocker tick as even sounding as I could.  Sometimes I'd have a rocker slightly louder and I'd go back in and fine tune the adjustment on the lash until I got the rocker tick to be the same as the other 7 rockers.

As far as your smoother idle at 8/12, on a factory stock cam, even a .001" change in valve lash changes the overlap degrees.  At stock lash  8/12 the overlap is 2.5 degrees.  Tightening the lash to 7/11 increases the overlap to 2.7 degrees.  Is that enough to affect the idle?... probably not.  Although mama ECU on 22RE apparently is sensitive to a cam profile with bigger overlap.

Personally I like a lopey cam.

Gnarls.
« Last Edit: Jun 02, 2019, 10:02:44 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~26,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #609 on: Jun 04, 2019, 12:43:16 PM »
As I've said before, I spent time with my valve lash setting and worked to get the rocker tick as even sounding as I could.  Sometimes I'd have a rocker slightly louder and I'd go back in and fine tune the adjustment on the lash until I got the rocker tick to be the same as the other 7 rockers.

As far as your smoother idle at 8/12, on a factory stock cam, even a .001" change in valve lash changes the overlap degrees.  At stock lash  8/12 the overlap is 2.5 degrees.  Tightening the lash to 7/11 increases the overlap to 2.7 degrees.  Is that enough to affect the idle?... probably not.  Although mama ECU on 22RE apparently is sensitive to a cam profile with bigger overlap.

Personally I like a lopey cam.

Gnarls.
Thanks for this, the part about overlap degrees really helped! I had to go back and put all my intake valves to .007, but the exhaust are Toyota Spec.


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Toybrota [OP]

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Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Reply #610 on: Jun 04, 2019, 12:49:44 PM »
Well so I took the truck out and explored some forest logging roads out by Camas, searching for a mine.
While I didn't find what I was looking for, I had a great chance to see how this thing does on inclines.
As we all know, the Weber 32/36 hasn't been known for the uphill abilities when put on a 22R.
I was actually surprised at what I was able to go up, it didn't flood at all! This is probably due to my fairly conservative fuel pressure, as I have that set at 2 psi I believe.
I didn't find any I couldn't drive up and not make it, but they weren't the steepest. As with most logging I've found in Washington and Oregon, they are all gated or purposely destroyed.

Anyways, think I'm going to do the Hill climb mod here soon.

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