0 deg btdc? That sounds strange to me, I run 12-14 inital with a modified more agressive timing curve, I do run 91oct all the time. The decoloration of the ground strap should be in the apex of the curve. With the vac disconected I suggest 8btdc initial and 32-34 total advance. This should not feel slower than the stock setup. Not a ton faster but not slower. With more timing your power and fuel economy will go up.

WOT af/r should not be above 13.1:1 for maximum power and 13.5:1 for safety, but with a narrowband it is hard to tell.

Yes, I was running 0° BTDC. That's what LC engineering said.

Yesterday I set it at 5° BTDC, which is what the early 22R likes. I've found this works the best for me. I'm also running 91 octane, nothing else but 91 has been in this motor.

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Been driving the truck without any issues. Starts right up when it's below 40° with ease.
I have noticed a idle surge when the motor is cold, I can "clear it out" by holding it at 1100 RPM before it runs smooth (with the choke on)
Sounds to me like it's running too rich when it's cold. Then again, I am pulling the choke all the way out, which makes the mixture rich. I'll try half way on the choke for now on and see.

Full foot to the floor at freeway showed 13.5 on the AFR, sounds decent to me.

Still holds and maintains freeway speed easily, the worn out front end vibrates at anything over 65.
No worry, I'm planning a full front end rebuild like I did on my other truck.

Headlights drop the RPM enough for it to run noticeably rougher. This truck has always had a slight rumble in the seat at idle (so has just about every old Toyota I've driven).
I've found the best idle is around 750-800, anything lower than that and she's a bit rough. Sounds like carb tuning to me.
If you get on the throttle, there's a slight hesitation before it picks up. Too much fuel? Not enough?
Thanks again for the monumental amount help and advice you have all given, it definitely is appreciated.

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Why are you concerned about the idle RPMs?

Gnarls.

Because I worry about everything. And I expect it to be perfect.
Just part of who I am. My expectations for this have clearly overstepped what they should be.

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My 22R idled between 850 and 900 and it was happy.

If you have very a rough idle, like a misfire, then you may want to diagnose it.

It's probably AFR - mixture - so carb, or it may be ignition - but typically not unless there is a misfire at other RPMS, or it's mechanical - disty, valve lash, or a valve issue - bad valves/seats, leak.  Could be vacuum.  Could be the cam profile.

Just thinking out loud.

And... it's OK to be anal about your truck.

Gnarls. 

no issue if not smogging but a high idle will fail the test.
it happened to me after the top end.

CB

Clocked in at 16.5 miles per gallon. That's pretty good for a Weber I'd say! May drop the secondary jet a size.

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I have just found over time that I have to find the happy place for each engine in regards to things like ignition timing and idle RPMs. For instance you may very well find that a bit more ignition advance will pick you up a mile per gallon or so.  We modify these things to the point that the stock settings are moot anyway so don't chew off your fingernails trying to get it to act like a stock engine at sea level.

I also find that for tuning what the engine likes in winter will vary a bit from what it wants in the warmer months, even to the point of a richer primary idle jet in the winter.  Nice thing about the Weber is that you can swap that out in seconds.

I have just found over time that I have to find the happy place for each engine in regards to things like ignition timing and idle RPMs. For instance you may very well find that a bit more ignition advance will pick you up a mile per gallon or so.  We modify these things to the point that the stock settings are moot anyway so don't chew off your fingernails trying to get it to act like a stock engine at sea level.

I also find that for tuning what the engine likes in winter will vary a bit from what it wants in the warmer months, even to the point of a richer primary idle jet in the winter.  Nice thing about the Weber is that you can swap that out in seconds.

I definitely know what you mean about tuning for the time of year too. Both my trucks run significantly better when it's warm out.

How fast can you change your main Jets? I'm not that fast... Yet.


All of this tuning stuff will have to be done over again when I move in less than a month. Portland is at 50' in elevation.

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Hey everyone! Just got back from the first real "Road trip" in this truck with the new motor.
The truck did phenomenally well! I put about 190 miles on it between today and yesterday, all freeway.
Salt Lake to Logan valley in Utah takes about an hour and a half, 90 miles there and 90 back.
Truck had NO problem doing 75 the whole way, I am a little weary of having that motor spinning at 3,200 + RPM,
but I can't imagine it would cause any issues at all.
I stayed in the primaries as much as I could, the occasional full throttle to help up some grades.

The elevation between Salt Lake and Logan are about the same, but they are separated by a large canyon road. Never had to downshift
below 4th, 60mph was the slowest it did uphill.

Truck ran cool as it ever will, about 175 degrees the whole way. I am more than happy with that!
Oil pressure was a constant 60-65PSI at 2,500 to 3,000 RPM. Right where it should be (Conventional 5W30)
Fuel mileage? I think I have close to half a tank left, which is fantastic for clocking 190 miles.
Timing at 5 degrees BTDC, 91 Octane. Never had to fiddle with the carb. Ran as great up there as it did down where I am.

Now for the not so great... The bottom intake plate is leaking. Not badly at all, just a VERY light seepage. No drop in coolant level.
LCE recommended silicone when installing the bottom plate. I did my usual "The right Stuff" with the gasket. There is clear machining
"Differences" (Clearly errors) to the point LC engineering mentions it in the install instructions.
Now, I am very anal about leaks but I don't think I am about this one. I will attempt to clean the area its leaking from, and smear a bit of silicone to prevent any further seepage. If it still seeps, I will just pull the bottom plate off and fix the issue. Luckily, the intake doesn't
have to come off for this.

What are you "weary" about? 

Gnarls. 

Long durations of high RPM driving. Toyota never designed these trucks to go 70+.
I just feel 3200 RPM is a bit high for long continuous driving.

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Hey T…

Wow… you really have that little hummer tweaked!  Great job!   

With the correct jetting adjustments, 19.5 MPG at your elevation would most likely translate to over 22 to 25 MPG at sea level!  Your right foot is worth 1 or 2 miles per gallon more or less. 

For your leak…. Based on what I used for thread sealer on my input shaft seal job – I used this base upon Permatex’s recommendation:

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe/

I really liked the consistency, contact feel, and sealing power.

If I were you I’d try this:

https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

Again T, I really enjoy and appreciate you sharing and posting your updates and photos on your project. 

Gnarls. 

I've hit over 3K miles on the rebuild, and just about 3K on this oil change. Haven't had to add oil once...
I got a new Edlebrock air cleaner, and I am very impressed with the quality. Especially where it seals...
Pic of the coolant leak as well, I'm continuing to drive it until I can fix it. I move here in 3 weeks, if it ain't broke don't fix it! I have the gasket, just waiting.

I also need to seal the pan again, it leaks a bit. No worry.

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https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

Thin layer on both sides of gasket, lightly coated on bolts/nuts. 

Gnarls.

So just to clarify, you want me to use thread sealant on the gasket itself?

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For the leak, it's leaking out of the gasket on the bottom intake manifold plate. Not sure why it's leaking...

Are you sure the coolant is leaking out through that gasket?

Gnarls.

I am sure, it's not leaking from the bolt holes.
Plus, I used silicone on the bolts themselves. LC engineering recommended it.
But, I like your idea for using the sealant on the threads. No harm in trying it!

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