Hey T...

Glad you are getting the bugs worked out... you are getting smarter by the day! 

SLC to V is probably around 800 miles.  Unless you have a time constraint, I wouldn't worry about your truck.

With that said... having it transported is not a bad idea. 

I have some words of caution for you - I have very close long time friends who have lived and traveled extensively, mostly in USA, Mexico, South America, and Central America.  They have shipped their stuff all over, in containers,  freight trucking, and by ship etc. 

Advice:  Be sure you completely understand any and all liabilities and risks and WHO will be responsible for a potential accident or other event that causes you a loss. Make sure the shipping company has an excellent and credible reputation. 

Gnarls.

I'll have to do some thorough research on the companies and see. Thanks for this piece of advice!

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Maybe some of you might be able to help me with a temp gremlin I'm having. Or not having.

I have a Japanese 190° thermostat in my truck, which I believe is the stock temp rating for the factory T-stat.

My truck seems to be idling around 195-205°, is this normal? My instincts tell me no. I've burped the system thoroughly, jacked the front end up, used a fancy spill free funnel. Pulling into my driveway after driving it, it climbed to 210°, but immediately went down. Stock radiator, cleaned very well. Either my gauge is wrong, or something else is. Could this be a cause of having blocked off the coolant passages with the block plates? It's 55° outside, it shouldn't be this warm I'd think...

It usually sits and goes up and down between 195° to 203° or so.

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Post#354 from BestGen
Good job. I think it looks great.
Your going to be amazed at how much more active the mechanical temp gauge is when compared to the stock Moron gauge (similar to an idiot light but in the gauge form). I will tell you not to be alarmed this summer when you see higher temps on your gauge than expected. I see mine go up to 210 on occasion when pulling a long steep hill.
This is completely normal just not show by the stock moron gauge.
 

I remembered that exact thing, but I felt it didn't apply. I'm not taking it up any huge hills, so I felt that it should be lower. Could be wrong though, I sometimes am!

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22re Performance
dual stage OE thermostat

This is a factory thermostat that was created to solve a certain cooling system problem on 22r/22re called "temperature overshoot". It's still a 190 degree thermostat like the original, but it has a second, smaller wax slug to help out under certain circumstances.

ready? OK, time to get get bored.... Sometimes when using the heater, the interior fan will drop the temp of the coolant below normal operating temp. The "cooled" water that just came out of the heater core then travels past the thermostat causing the thermostat to close, because it "thinks" the coolant needs to get back up to normal operating temp. This causes your temp gauge to show overheating or wild fluctuations.

So, as you can see, it's a pretty specific problem that it's trying to solve. As a daily driver, without this issue, I still recommend the regular OE thermostat I sell. If you are having this above issue, this could be the fix for it.

I've been hesitant to add this to the site only for the reason I didn't want people buying it for the wrong reasons (thinking it'll fix their faulty cooling system). You guys are smart enough to know when you need it, so I'll leave it up to you.


I have a copy of the TSB from the 80's if anyone wants to see the Toyota technical side. (bestGen)

Just got off the phone with Wes over at LC engineering. He told me it's completely normal for the engine temp to fluctuate from 180-210. Makes sense, this is about the operating range.

My gauge never goes above 210°. I'll just drive the truck and see. I expect it won't climb above 210° if it hasn't. I'll just start driving and enjoying it!

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On my 20/22r, the first time I ran it I had a 22re thermostat which was I think 195f, and the temperature would fluctuate up to 210f which I thought was a little high too. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the 22r uses a 185f thermostat. Since I put that in the temperature stays at 185f-190f on the road and rarely above 200f even in the trails in the summer. I do have a taurus electric fan with an adjustable controller that turns on at 200 or so

My 1985 22R ran a 190 to 200 all the time.  In the summer it could go to 210.  I had an AutoMeter mechanical temp gauge.

The temperature rating on t-stat is the temperature that it *begins* to open.  T-stats are typically fully open between 15 and 20 degrees above the rated temperature.  Toyota specs a 190d F t-stat.  It begins to open at 190d F and is full open at 212d F.

Installing a lower rated temperature t-stat than spec'd by the auto maker may cause issues with the ECU.

It better to install the spec'd t-stat temp rating.

Installing a lower temperature rated t-stat only lowers the beginning opening of the t-stat, it still will be full open at  15 to 20 degrees above it's rated temperature.

Stant's SuperStat t-stats may provided extra flow based upon their patented Weir valve design.

Here's a factory part:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/OEM-Toyota-Thermostat-90916-03078/647969343?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=14117&adid=22222222227135785386&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=244223852551&wl4=pla-455260784767&wl5=9030125&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=118770675&wl11=online&wl12=647969343&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhZy3ud6P4QIVwh-tBh0ouwNIEAQYBSABEgJC3PD_BwE

Here's the Aisin 190 Degree:  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7588520&cc=1277300&jsn=406

Here's the Gate 190 Degree:  https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1145455&cc=1277300&jsn=408


Gnarls.

Hey Gnarls, I'm running a 190° thermostat already. Since I have no ECU, I could go to a 180° thermostat according to others.


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Well, I'm almost certain it's just air trapped in the system. I pulled the cap off and let it set for an hour. The antifreeze level dropped. I'm gonna let it set overnight and see how much it drops.
Tomorrow I'll also install the stock temp sender and get that hooked up, not that it'll do anything for the situation at hand.

I know I can get this fixed, just a matter of finding out how!

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I doubt you have any air trapped in the system.  The coolant level will drop as it cools.. normal.

Gnarls.

Three steps forward... Five steps back...

Today I burped the cooling system even more, and got even more bubble to come up. I topped it off when they seemed to stop coming. So I went and drove it around. At first, it was totally fine. The temp would go up to around 195°, and come back down to 180° ish.  Constant fluctuation, even while driving.

The stock gauge always stayed at the below half mark.

Drove around a little more, and it climbed to 230°!
The stock gauge still registered the same (little below half) the temp subsided as I pulled over. On my way home (2 or so miles away) it never went to that temp.

I just got done testing the mechanical gauge, set my camp stove up close to the truck and heated water up. The mechanical temp gauge works fine, I compared it with a kitchen thermometer (the kind for liquids) The temp was nearly spot on. So the mechanical works.

The stock must not then? The stock gauge will slowly creep up to the normal below half mark at around 150°.


What the hell could be going on here? The fan didn't come on at all. It's 65° out. But that shouldn't matter, it should come on if it hit 230° Fan clutch is off a properly running truck.
It's 20° warmer out compared to the last few weeks. The warmest this year that this engine has experienced. Leads me to question wether this is a problem that's existed since day one that's been exaggerated recently with the rise in outside temp.

Radiator is the one that came with the truck, off the bad motor, that I flushed thoroughly (not enough?)
Heater core was flushed with CLR (and vinegar)
The Heat is incredible.

New thermostat (190°, Japanese made)

At this point, I don't feel safe driving the truck if it's reaching temperature this high. I do not believe any damage has been done, the temp immediately went back down like it always does. While test driving, I removed the hood to see if I could watch the overflow tank to see if it grew in capacity, which it did following it warming up. And went back down after letting it set. So the rad cap should be working properly...

I can get a new aluminum 3 core Tig welded radiology on eBay for $120, I've heard fantastic things about them (good ratings too)
Should I just start replacing everything that I didn't during the rebuild?

I'll start with the Rad, Rad cap, New fan clutch (even though I'm not sure this is the issue). What else? Am I missing anything? Thorough system flush?
I could have the rad shop check it out, but that would be $100 for them to Rod it (de-solder/clean). At that rate, might as well buy a nicer one.

Thing is, I don't remember this being an issue with the old intake manifold. I had the mechanical gauges installed then, too. I didn't record the temp, it was normal.
Tomorrow I'm going to test the dummy gauge given the FSM parameters, I'll also drain the coolant from the rad and remove and test the thermostat.
Willing to bet it's the Radiator, why? The temp fluctuates at speed and at idle. A potential blockage may produce these symptoms?

Really stumped, I'm getting to the point that I can't just keep dumping money into this thing.


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Well it's not going to hurt anything to upgrade your radiator.  I have had slight hot issues that fooled me before with a limp or lame fan clutch.

That's what my thought process was, the rad is old... Might as well get a new one.

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Even more setbacks...

Looks like the intake will have to come off again. The center block plate on the cylinder head is leaking. Never drips, just seeps. Don't really get why, I used a new gasket and block plate, and I cleaned all the surfaces. I ordered a Toyota intake gasket from 22RE  performance. This one has silicone beads around the coolant passages, which from what I understand is how it's supposed to be. The one I used from LC engineering, didn't.

I tested the temp sender outside the truck, I heated coolant to around 225°, and it had no effect on the temp gauge. Stayed at the same place. So the stock one isn't true, knew that already.



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You will be fine after the new gasket. Toyota factory parts for the win! Again 
So what Your saying is? The factory gauge is worthless until your on the side of the road overheating?
Me Jesse
Boy I know I sure wouldn't trust it to give any accurate information. Sounds like a moron gauge to Me.

That's exactly what I'm saying. I was only testing it to see if it fluctuated with the temp increase. Nope. Glad I have my mechanical.

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I think the experiment was awesome.
I like Definitive answers.
Now all the moron gauge people know it’s worthless until overheating and should consider a mechanic gauge and a gauge pillar.

Unfortunately some will still swear by their stock gauges. Much like I did, before I took the advice.

The two things I've learned here that I will pass on.

Get a Mechanical temp gauge, and a Weber.

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This is how I like it. I also prefer the same temp gauge just in a different color.

Could you still fit an internal cage Chris?  If yes, would the faces still be visible?

CB

I don't think so. Plan is for exo in the future.
If I was going to do an internal cage I would locate the gauges here.