I have always been haunted by Glen's acceleration video with the stage 2 cam, so I am trying to branch out in that direction for my current cam choice which is intended more for a hot street application. 

Both those cams look pretty nasty compared to the limited specs I have on the Putney 282 and Jim thought that was pretty strung out for a 4x4 unless it was on the lighter side.  I am using it in the '80, which is pretty light and will have small tires and plenty of low gearing (32" tires and 5.29 gears) so I think I'll be good.  If I hate he 282 in the 4WD pickup I will just go back to a stock profile with the adjustable cam gear anyway ad save that one for a 2WD or a Celica.

I don't think you could go wrong with either of those LCE cams but if you plan to stick with the stock carb you should maybe choose the lesser of the two cams.  I love the aisan and it can be dialed up, but after trying both these Webers have them beat hands down for tunability.

Another angle is this...  If you plan to set up lower gearing, go with the more aggressive cam, if you plan to keep your 4.10s, then choose the one more dialed to bottom end.

By all means though, go with your gut and let us know how it is when you drive it.

Yeah I guess the main thing is if the .460 lift is a piston smacker or not.   

I think a lot of the time they get people who don't rev their 22r up whining about cams.  I have a buddy who swears his 22r won't pull this one hill over 35 mph but I drove his rig up it at 56 mph.  Of course I was in 3rd gear and I think he tries it in 4th.

Yeah I guess the main thing is if the .460 lift is a piston smacker or not.   

I think a lot of the time they get people who don't rev their 22r up whining about cams.  I have a buddy who swears his 22r won't pull this one hill over 35 mph but I drove his rig up it at 56 mph.  Of course I was in 3rd gear and I think he tries it in 4th.

It takes a pretty solid grade to drag you down in 3rd gear. I can pull most any highway grade at about 60 depending on how much I want to rev it up. High altitude like in Colorado is another story. Pulled my 85 into second on the I70 passes. 

you all have seen my video on Youtube and my truck has sliders made of .250 wall tube.  my front bumperis made from 1/4 inch plate and 3/8 plate in the center section then the warn 9000 winch. and the 1/4 wall square tube i have as a headache rack/light post and the rear bumper has three feet of 3 inch C channel driven into the rear of the frame as far as it would go with a 8 pound sledge hammer on both sides. then another piece across the back as a bumper.
the truck weighs 4500 with me and a spare tire. no tools or anything.
keep that in mind when I tell you with the .460 lift cam https://www.lceperformance.com/Stage-2-Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1022036.htm     I can be rolling along at idle on a hard pack gravel road clutch all the way out and engaged and with my left foot on the slider,  stomp the go pedal and sling gravel thirty feet behind me (broke out the headlights on my son in laws 4runner) 
As far as valve cover,  I had to use a 22RE 85+ valve cover because the old 20R cover and the 22R cover were getting hit by the adjusters on the rocker arms.

also get yourself some modeling clay in a craft store only a small amount,  make a pancake out of it that fits over the top of the piston, 1/4 inch thick should do.  install your piston with no rings but with rod bearings then put your head on only snug.   tighten the adjusters so you have only about .001" to no clearance and then roll the crank over if you feel any binding  STOP and remove the head.   If no binding then continue around twice.  remove the head and look for the indentions in the clay from the valves.   use a dull knife and cut the clay crossways through the indention and measure how close the valve came to the piston.   anything closer than .100" and you need to notch the piston if you have more than that then you are good to go.


I highly recommend Marlins 1200lb clutch kit but NOT the ceramic one. 

you all have seen my video on Youtube and my truck has sliders made of .250 wall tube.  my front bumperis made from 1/4 inch plate and 3/8 plate in the center section then the warn 9000 winch. and the 1/4 wall square tube i have as a headache rack/light post and the rear bumper has three feet of 3 inch C channel driven into the rear of the frame as far as it would go with a 8 pound sledge hammer on both sides. then another piece across the back as a bumper.
the truck weighs 4500 with me and a spare tire. no tools or anything.
keep that in mind when I tell you with the .460 lift cam https://www.lceperformance.com/Stage-2-Camshaft-20R-22R-RE-RET-p/1022036.htm     I can be rolling along at idle on a hard pack gravel road clutch all the way out and engaged and with my left foot on the slider,  stomp the go pedal and sling gravel thirty feet behind me (broke out the headlights on my son in laws 4runner) 
As far as valve cover,  I had to use a 22RE 85+ valve cover because the old 20R cover and the 22R cover were getting hit by the adjusters on the rocker arms.

also get yourself some modeling clay in a craft store only a small amount,  make a pancake out of it that fits over the top of the piston, 1/4 inch thick should do.  install your piston with no rings but with rod bearings then put your head on only snug.   tighten the adjusters so you have only about .001" to no clearance and then roll the crank over if you feel any binding  STOP and remove the head.   If no binding then continue around twice.  remove the head and look for the indentions in the clay from the valves.   use a dull knife and cut the clay crossways through the indention and measure how close the valve came to the piston.   anything closer than .100" and you need to notch the piston if you have more than that then you are good to go.


I highly recommend Marlins 1200lb clutch kit but NOT the ceramic one. 

Thank you, Glen! which pistons are you running? the 22R dog dish pistons or the 22RE flat tops?

the early Celica's late 82 83 and early 84 had efi and I was told by Toysport that those pistons looked identical to 20R pistonsI have never had the money to order a set just to see or locate a motor from one to investigate but   I think if you found a set for a tall block it would be like having a 92mm bore 20R

with shipping to Arkansas my cost was $267   but in AZ you probably wont have that much in shipping

  dang that sucks.   might be cheaper to drive

alright, thanks! (paraphrasing here) I seldom 4 wheel

WOW,  why didnt they tell me to order on a holiday

Cam is here.

They gave me a disclaimer for the race against gnarls

did they send you a catalog??

Get to work!

You can do it!  Just start making tiny progress every day, just one thing a day.  We all want to see how you like that nazdee cam.

Hello, yes sorry. I've been busy with other things, including that we've recently been over run by RATS, as seen in this picture!

Any progress 300K-san?  Wax on, wax off...