Author Topic: Code 52 (Read 8423 times)

Theneckasaurus · « **on:** Feb 24, 2017, 07:56:05 PM »

Got an '88 4runner 22re/w56.
I've been trying to fix the dreaded code 52.
I bought an ebay knock sensor that was for a 3.0 and many other toyota engines. Still throws the code. Cut some wiring back and soldered in fresh wire, still throws the code. Got ballsy and cut/soldered in a length of coax wire from the ecm to the knock sensor, still throws the code. I have 3 thoughts. 1.) The $12 sensor is garbage or its not right for the engine. 2.) The coax wire for some reason isnt up to par. 3.) ECM is poop.
What are your thoughts? I need to smog this pos!

Snowtoy · « **Reply #1 on:** Feb 26, 2017, 09:16:48 PM »

With the parts numbers being different, I would start with the correct knock sensor.

Did you use a shielded wire, and ground one end? This is how the rewire for the '86-'92 Supra's is done, using a 50 Ohm 18 to 22AWG multi-strand wire.

Theneckasaurus · « **Reply #2 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 10:28:29 AM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 26, 2017, 09:16:48 PM

With the parts numbers being different, I would start with the correct knock sensor.

Did you use a shielded wire, and ground one end? This is how the rewire for the '86-'92 Supra's is done, using a 50 Ohm 18 to 22AWG multi-strand wire.

I used a normal coax, audio cable. Its probably closer to 12 gauge wire. Doesnt the wire from the ecm run straight from the ecm to the sensor? Is the sensor not grounding it? I'm confused about that.

Willard · « **Reply #3 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 01:16:02 PM »

Get rid of the normal sensor. Splice into the existing wire and install a GM knock sensor on one of the threaded bosses on the block. Also will need to run an inline coil resistor on the wire to the sensor. This is what LCE does with there standalone kits. It worked perfect for me.

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Snowtoy · « **Reply #4 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 03:01:03 PM »

Quote from: Theneckasaurus on Feb 27, 2017, 10:28:29 AM

I used a normal coax, audio cable. Its probably closer to 12 gauge wire. Doesnt the wire from the ecm run straight from the ecm to the sensor? Is the sensor not grounding it? I'm confused about that.

I am not an electrical engineer, but I tried your method with my '87 Supra and it failed, only solution was using a shielded wire and grounding one end. The KS system is finicky, it seems breaks in the connection(even when resoldered) or RF disruption of the signal from outside will cause it to throw a code, which causes the ecu to retard the timing to prevent engine damage.

Since you have already soldered in a new wire I would try the correct KS or Willards suggestion, then try to rewire it using the method used for the Supras.
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/knock.htm

Quote from: Willard on Feb 27, 2017, 01:16:02 PM

Get rid of the normal sensor. Splice into the existing wire and install a GM knock sensor on one of the threaded bosses on the block. Also will need to run an inline coil resistor on the wire to the sensor. This is what LCE does with there standalone kits. It worked perfect for me.

Is that using the oem wire?

Willard · « **Reply #5 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 04:00:51 PM »

Nope, non shielded regular 18g wire to a resistor and GM pigtail/knock sensor. No problems for 5 years and run hard on trails. Pulls 70+ on highway and no codes. This is the way LCE told me to do it.

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Willard · « **Reply #6 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 04:02:15 PM »

And when I swap to there standalone kit it will maintain the same design.

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Willard · « **Reply #7 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 04:09:35 PM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 27, 2017, 03:01:03 PM

I am not an electrical engineer, but I tried your method with my '87 Supra and it failed, only solution was using a shielded wire and grounding one end. The KS system is finicky, it seems breaks in the connection(even when resoldered) or RF disruption of the signal from outside will cause it to throw a code, which causes the ecu to retard the timing to prevent engine damage.

Did you run an inline resistor or straight to ground?

Since you have already soldered in a new wire I would try the correct KS or Willards suggestion, then try to rewire it using the method used for the Supras.
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/knock.htm

Is that using the oem wire?

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Theneckasaurus · « **Reply #8 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 10:12:14 PM »

Quote from: Willard on Feb 27, 2017, 01:16:02 PM

Get rid of the normal sensor. Splice into the existing wire and install a GM knock sensor on one of the threaded bosses on the block. Also will need to run an inline coil resistor on the wire to the sensor. This is what LCE does with there standalone kits. It worked perfect for me.

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I was doing some reading and a guy did something similar on his scout. While its totally different engines/setups I figured the principle would be the same. You said wire in a GM knock sensor, any specific engine? What rated resistor? Thanks.

Theneckasaurus · « **Reply #9 on:** Feb 27, 2017, 10:21:37 PM »

Quote from: Snowtoy on Feb 27, 2017, 03:01:03 PM

I am not an electrical engineer, but I tried your method with my '87 Supra and it failed, only solution was using a shielded wire and grounding one end. The KS system is finicky, it seems breaks in the connection(even when resoldered) or RF disruption of the signal from outside will cause it to throw a code, which causes the ecu to retard the timing to prevent engine damage.

Since you have already soldered in a new wire I would try the correct KS or Willards suggestion, then try to rewire it using the method used for the Supras.
http://oldschool.supracentral.com/htm/knock.htm

Is that using the oem wire?

Again, where is this one end being grounded. ECM to sensor, where is the wire grounded? Like splice to a ground?

Willard · « **Reply #10 on:** Feb 28, 2017, 07:43:29 AM »

The sensor provides the ground for the ecm. And it will be a gen 3 vortec so, '00-'06. You will need a knock sensor and the harness. I used a 45ohm resistor I believe. Just look up a coil resistor for like and Oldsmobile or and older dodge that used it for the ignition system. It was really easy as long as someone at the parts counter knows what there looking for.

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Theneckasaurus · « **Reply #11 on:** Feb 28, 2017, 08:36:15 AM »

Quote from: Willard on Feb 28, 2017, 07:43:29 AM

The sensor provides the ground for the ecm. And it will be a gen 3 vortec so, '00-'06. You will need a knock sensor and the harness. I used a 45ohm resistor I believe. Just look up a coil resistor for like and Oldsmobile or and older dodge that used it for the ignition system. It was really easy as long as someone at the parts counter knows what there looking for.

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Sweet, thanks mans! Regarding the ground, I know the sensor grounds to the block, which is why I am confused on grounding the wire a second time? Maybe I'm misunderstanding the other gentleman.

Theneckasaurus · « **Reply #12 on:** Feb 28, 2017, 08:40:19 AM »

Real quick, do you happen to know why the existing toyota KS wont work with your setup? If I added a resistor to the system now wouldnt that provide similar if not the same results? Just wondering.

Willard · « **Reply #13 on:** Feb 28, 2017, 09:01:20 AM »

What your going to do is basically dummy the system. In my mind the knock sensor does absolutely nothing to benefit you. I just went with what LCE told me to try and it worked. Plus I had like 3 sensors and a couple harnesses for GM laying around as I was a tech for 8 years. I'm sure everyone knows when there engine is pinging or knocking. All a knock sensor has ever done to me is fail pre maturely and make you replace or modify the factory setup.

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Snowtoy · « **Reply #14 on:** Feb 28, 2017, 02:49:24 PM »

Quote from: Theneckasaurus on Feb 27, 2017, 10:21:37 PM

Again, where is this one end being grounded. ECM to sensor, where is the wire grounded? Like splice to a ground?

Quote from: Theneckasaurus on Feb 28, 2017, 08:36:15 AM

Regarding the ground, I know the sensor grounds to the block, which is why I am confused on grounding the wire a second time? Maybe I'm misunderstanding the other gentleman.

With the Supra rewire, you wire the core wire to th ecm and the KS connector, then attach a wire to the shielding portion of the wire on one end. If using the ecm end you ground it to the body, if on the Knock sensor end, you ground it to the engine or firewall/inner fender.

The purpose of grounding the shielding section is to protect the inner wire from being effected by outside signals that can effect the strength of the KS signal being sent to the ecm.

Quote from: Theneckasaurus on Feb 28, 2017, 08:40:19 AM

Real quick, do you happen to know why the existing toyota KS wont work with your setup? If I added a resistor to the system now wouldnt that provide similar if not the same results? Just wondering.

If I recall correctly, above 2k rpm's, the ecm monitors the electrical signal created by the KS, it uses that signal to adjust timing to prevent pre-ignition, if it doesn't receive a signal or one outside the programmed acceptable range, it retards the timing to protect the engine. The wire used and the strength of the signal generated by the KS have to be within the ecm's acceptable range, if not, it wont work correctly. The 3.0 system is designed using a short wiring harness to connect KS with the main wiring harness, whereas the 22re doesn't. If the 3.0 KS creates a stronger signal to compensate for the short wiring harness, the stronger signal could be causing the 22re'ss ecm to think the engine is suffering pre-ignition beyond its ability to adjust the timing, a resistor like what Willard used, may reduce the signal strength enough to work with the 22re ecm, if not, you could then try the GM KS.

Theneckasaurus · « **Reply #15 on:** Mar 19, 2017, 03:16:17 PM »

Quote from: Willard on Feb 28, 2017, 07:43:29 AM

The sensor provides the ground for the ecm. And it will be a gen 3 vortec so, '00-'06. You will need a knock sensor and the harness. I used a 45ohm resistor I believe. Just look up a coil resistor for like and Oldsmobile or and older dodge that used it for the ignition system. It was really easy as long as someone at the parts counter knows what there looking for.

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So before I bought the stuff to do it your way I figured I'd get some shielded wire and try that. Still dont work. So Im gonna try your way but I can't find any coil resistors that are 45ohms. More like 1.xxx ohms at most! Are you sure it was 45ohms?

Willard · « **Reply #16 on:** Mar 19, 2017, 07:42:34 PM »

Shoot, let me find the part number for you.

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Willard · « **Reply #17 on:** Mar 19, 2017, 07:45:37 PM »

Here is basically the same one I have. Yes I did not place a decimal on the ohm value. This one will work.

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Author Topic: Code 52 (Read 8423 times)

Theneckasaurus

Code 52

Snowtoy

Re: Code 52

Theneckasaurus [OP]

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Willard

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Snowtoy

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Willard

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Willard

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Willard

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Theneckasaurus [OP]

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Theneckasaurus [OP]

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Willard

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Theneckasaurus [OP]

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Theneckasaurus [OP]

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Willard

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Snowtoy

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Willard

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Willard

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