Author Topic: Gnarly4X's 22RE Rebuild (Read 395034 times)

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #450 on:** Dec 12, 2016, 03:06:10 AM »

Quote from: Mudder on Dec 11, 2016, 08:24:35 PM

I did this for my motor mounts, http://www.yotatech.com/f123/22re-polyurethane-engine-mounts-232595/

More vibrations don't bother me, my truck is already loud inside and needs more work if I wanted it to be comfortable for others.

Hey Mudder,

If I had known about this motor mount option, I might have saved myself $85 or $90! It's too late for me, but this looks like a great tip for anyone else ready to replace their motor mounts.

Because I learned that the engine may not sit level by just replacing one of the mounts, I would recommend always replacing both mounts with the same new motor mounts.

Gnarls.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #451 on:** Dec 12, 2016, 03:11:16 AM »

Quote from: emsvitil on Dec 11, 2016, 10:39:06 PM

Example:

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=100581.msg1122861#msg1122861

Hey emsvitil,

This would work for someone who has the time and tools to do the modification. This will greatly reduce the flexibility of the mount and probably induce vibrations and noise to the frame rail. This option would be WAY down on my list of replacement options.

Gnarls.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #452 on:** Dec 18, 2016, 07:41:17 AM »

Quote from: ExCabSwap on Oct 09, 2016, 04:05:56 PM

Easiest for mine was to attach the motor mounts to the block first.
Also, do you have any need of that bad motor mount? Any interest of getting rid of it?

Hey ExCabSwap,

I learned that if motor mounts need to be replaced, better to replace both at the same time. When I had to place a broken driver's side on my 1985 22R shortbed while wheeling in Moab, the aftermarket one that I had to file to get the holes to line up, did not tilt the engine over? So when I replace the driver's side this time, I didn't think about it making the engine rotate to the passenger side about 4 or 5 degrees - not level.

As I posted, I have replaced both mounts now.

If you want the two old motor mounts, let me know. If you want to pay for shipping to you, they're yours. They look factory, and probably original mounts.

Gnarls.

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #453 on:** Dec 18, 2016, 03:34:43 PM »

Has this engine started yet?

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #454 on:** Dec 18, 2016, 05:33:13 PM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Dec 18, 2016, 03:34:43 PM

Has this engine started yet?

No

OTO Phil · « **Reply #455 on:** Dec 18, 2016, 10:53:42 PM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Dec 18, 2016, 07:41:17 AM

Hey ExCabSwap,

I learned that if motor mounts need to be replaced, better to replace both at the same time. When I had to place a broken driver's side on my 1985 22R shortbed while wheeling in Moab, the aftermarket one that I had to file to get the holes to line up, did not tilt the engine over? So when I replace the driver's side this time, I didn't think about it making the engine rotate to the passenger side about 4 or 5 degrees - not level.

As I posted, I have replaced both mounts now.

If you want the two old motor mounts, let me know. If you want to pay for shipping to you, they're yours. They look factory, and probably original mounts.

Gnarls.

I'll send you a message 👍

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #456 on:** Dec 19, 2016, 05:52:17 AM »

Update 12-19-2016

HOT TIP: Mount and bolt the tranny cross member up BEFORE you tighten down any bolts on the motor mounts.

The needle on my project is moving forward, but slowly... way slower than I had imagined.

I got the drive shafts cleaned from 30+ years of crude, and pumped the U-joints full of fresh grease. I should have the exhaust mounted and wiring finished by Friday. I'm really hoping to fire this engine before the end of December. *fingers crossed*.

Mentally I'm struggling with the wiring and getting it all routed and plugged in correctly!

Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda...... taken more photos or videos!!

Gnarls.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #457 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 03:03:17 AM »

Off the wall question…

My truck has been parked in my garage for 4 years. I’ve never stored a vehicle for 4 years.

I kept the tires aired up to 45 PSI. Will the flat spots on the tires recover after driving it for a few miles…. Or could the flat spots be permanent? The tires are fairly low mileage Michelin 31” LTX M/S, about 5 years old.

Has anyone experienced the result of long storage of a vehicle sitting on tires? $:-\$

Thanks,

Gnarls.

emsvitil · « **Reply #458 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 03:50:01 AM »

They should recover as the tire warms up........

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #459 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 07:05:14 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Dec 27, 2016, 03:03:17 AM

Off the wall question…

My truck has been parked in my garage for 4 years. I’ve never stored a vehicle for 4 years.

I kept the tires aired up to 45 PSI. Will the flat spots on the tires recover after driving it for a few miles…. Or could the flat spots be permanent? The tires are fairly low mileage Michelin 31” LTX M/S, about 5 years old.

Has anyone experienced the result of long storage of a vehicle sitting on tires? $:-\$

Thanks,

Gnarls.

? has this engine rebuild really been going on for 4 years ?
Did something happen to delay the process? Health, Family, Work, Zombie Apocalypse, alien invasion, preperations for potential invasion or Apocalypse?
I know you have stated your anal about your projects, But 4 years is a long time.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #460 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 10:07:57 AM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Dec 27, 2016, 07:05:14 AM

? has this engine rebuild really been going on for 4 years ?
Did something happen to delay the process? Health, Family, Work, Zombie Apocalypse, alien invasion, preperations for potential invasion or Apocalypse?
I know you have stated your anal about your projects, But 4 years is a long time.

LOL.... started this rebuild project *see post 1*.

Delays were caused by all of those listed, plus over-runs on projected budget!! Also, I'm slower than average - possibly too anal.

I didn't thoroughly research this before I started and was committed. I hope to share my "fubar" to help anyone else that may want to tackle a rebuild like this and to the degree I have decided to complete it.

I am not as aggressive about getting this done as I should be and it bothers me at this point, but I'm hoping to have it fired up right after New Years. Shortly after I started the project, I had an unexpected and significant financial hit, otherwise I'd be finished by now.

Gnarls.

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #461 on:** Dec 27, 2016, 07:48:52 PM »

Finally read your entire write up. Nice. Reminds me of when I swapped motors, and all the trials and errors I went thru.

All that work I did, only to have the engine builder put in a crappy harmonic balancer that leaks oil. I still have to order a new one from 22RE.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #462 on:** Dec 28, 2016, 12:33:19 AM »

Quote from: Cheesemaker on Dec 27, 2016, 07:48:52 PM

Finally read your entire write up. Nice. Reminds me of when I swapped motors, and all the trials and errors I went thru.

All that work I did, only to have the engine builder put in a crappy harmonic balancer that leaks oil. I still have to order a new one from 22RE.

Hi Cheesemaker,

Thanks. Yeah… like most of us, I have read hundreds and hundreds of posts on Toyota rebuilds and swaps. Most have lots of discussions about what went wrong.. “trials and errors”. So it seems to me doing a quality and successful rebuild on a 20/22 isn’t necessarily a walk in the park, even for the “experts”. The thing is, because these engines have a legendary reputation for reliability and longevity, the average DIYer doesn’t get much practice.

Since 1986 I have talked to a good number of “rebuilders” (engbldr, 22RE Performance, LCE, etc), local shops, and the guys who have tackled a rebuild. I have searched on the internet for most of the main or popular suppliers of short blocks, long blocks, turn-key, and pulled from wrecks engines, and aftermarket parts suppliers (e.g. camshaft suppliers). For this rebuild, at the end of the day I decided I had too many concerns, and decided to try it myself, even with my lack of experience.

The help from all the folks that have posted their experiences and knowledge on these forums over the last 15+ years has been invaluable to me. Of course, the information and opinions can range from total Bravo Sierra to pure genius.

After I get this engine fired and some mileage on my truck, I will post a summary of my rebuild experience.

Gnarls.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #463 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 03:29:11 AM »

UPDATE: 2-10-2017

The delays in getting this engine fired is frustrating. Family issues are a priority, but I am not working at this project hard enough.

.... I think old age makes me lazy!

Yesterday I was trying to figure out all the connections in the wire harness and discovered the wire to the Coolant Temp Sensor connector was broken. It was only holding with 1 copper strand - don't know why Toyota could not have made the wire gauge just a tad bigger?

After finding zero aftermarket options, I emailed Jerry at 22RE Performance, and he instantly replied - gotta love that extraordinary customer service!! - there is NO connector and NO wire harnesses are available.

He suggested taking the contact out of the plastic body to solder a new wire. I looked at it carefully and decided trying remove the metal contact would most likely destroy the very crytalized plastic housing and break the thin metal contact.

So I took a very sharp knife, and VERY carefully scraped off the 30 year old insulation around the end of the broken wire. I soldered on a new wire, and had to drill a larger hole in the little black seal cap to avoid pushing hard against the metal contact tab as I slid it down the wire and into the connector, and only inserted it partially into the top of connector body - I didn't want to break the little metal contact tab that the wire was connected to. I used some Ultra Black to seal it back up.

I will slip some heat shrink tubing on the wire and solder the pigtail onto the broken wire harness wire.

This is one of the main reasons why I decided to do this rebuild myself.... God only knows what a "shop" would have done with this part??

Gnarls.

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #464 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 07:17:24 AM »

I had to do the same exact thing to mine years ago. But I got the pin out, and soldered it up, and reinstalled it. But I did put 2 layers of heat shrink around the wire where it comes out of the plug. I also did the same for a buddy too once!

Those cheap little picks helps alot in situations like this. That is how I got the pin out.

H8PVMNT · « **Reply #465 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 07:37:17 AM »

Good job. This is why I like to save every harness out of every parts truck I can, even burnt or butchered ones. Those extra plugs come in really handy.

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #466 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 08:40:55 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Feb 10, 2017, 03:29:11 AM

UPDATE: 2-10-2017

The delays in getting this engine fired is frustrating. Family issues are a priority, but I am not working at this project hard enough. .... I think old age makes me lazy!

Yesterday I was trying to figure out all the connections in the wire harness and discovered the wire to the Coolant Temp Sensor connector was broken. It was only holding with 1 copper strand - don't know why Toyota could not have made the wire gauge just a tad bigger?

After finding zero aftermarket options, I emailed Jerry at 22RE Performance, and he instantly replied - gotta love that extraordinary customer service!! - there is NO connector and NO wire harnesses are available.

He suggested taking the contact out of the plastic body to solder a new wire. I looked at it carefully and decided trying remove the metal contact would most likely destroy the very crytalized plastic housing and break the thin metal contact.

So I took a very sharp knife, and VERY carefully scraped off the 30 year old insulation around the end of the broken wire. I soldered on a new wire, and had to drilled a larger hole in the little black seal cap to avoid pushing hard against the metal contact tab as I slid it down the wire and into the connector, and only inserted it partially into the top of connector body - I didn't want to break the little metal contact tab that the wire was connected to. I used some Ultra Black to seal it back up.

I will slip some heat shrink tubing on the wire and solder the pigtail onto the broken wire harness wire.

This is one of the main reasons why I decided to do this rebuild myself.... God only knows what a "shop" would have done with this part??

Gnarls.

The question is, do You know what that sensor is and what it does?
I challenge you Gnarls.....
Don't disappoint me, And be careful its not what you think it is. (Hint)
Mine has been deleted. (Hint) If it came in to the Chevron I would have explained what it is, what it does, and your options.
"Extra credit" If you explain how that system works and what it affects.

(Best of Luck)
BestGen,

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #467 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 10:30:48 AM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Feb 10, 2017, 08:40:55 AM

The question is, do You know what that sensor is and what it does?
I challenge you Gnarls.....
Don't disappoint me, And be careful its not what you think it is. (Hint)
Mine has been deleted. (Hint) If it came in to the Chevron I would have explained what it is, what it does, and your options.
"Extra credit" If you explain how that system works and what it affects.
(Best of Luck)
BestGen,

OK, to make a SWAG...

I'd say that sensor detects a range of coolant temperature. It will send data, probably registers a range of low voltage, and tells the ECU to change or correct engine idle, A/F, and ignition timing.

If it fails, the ECU will throw a check engine light?

Gnarls.

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #468 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 10:44:42 AM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Feb 10, 2017, 10:30:48 AM

OK, to make a SWAG...

I'd say that sensor detects a range of coolant temperature. It will send data, probably registers a range of low voltage, and tells the ECU to change or correct engine idle, A/F, and ignition timing.

If it fails, the ECU will throw a check engine light?

Gnarls.

Strike #1

Do Some research before you try again.
I will Give you a small amount of credit. It is a sensor and it does measure temp.
Come on, I have great fait in You.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #469 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 12:41:05 PM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Feb 10, 2017, 10:44:42 AM

Strike #1
Do Some research before you try again.
I will Give you a small amount of credit. It is a sensor and it does measure temp.
Come on, I have great fait in You.

Holy Crapity!!

Do you grade on a curve, and is this an open book test??

Gnarls.

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #470 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 12:48:40 PM »

Quote from: Gnarly4X on Feb 10, 2017, 12:41:05 PM

Holy Crapity!!

Do you grade on a curve, and is this an open book test??

Gnarls.

Ok, I will make it easier for You. What is it called and what is its job. Accurate answer please.
Another hint, (NO its not the coolant temp sensor).

Mudder · « **Reply #471 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 01:29:30 PM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Feb 10, 2017, 12:48:40 PM

Ok, I will make it easier for You. What is it called and what is its job. Accurate answer please.
Another hint, (NO its not the coolant temp sensor).

Is that sensor used with the VSV on the top/rear of the engine to modify the fuel pressure during hot conditions. It increases the fuel pressure during "Hot Soak Conditions" (coolant temp above 230dF) so "As a result, sufficient fuel delivery is guaranteed for smooth and proper engine speed."

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #472 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 01:36:09 PM »

I have never hear of this before?
Are you talking about the one on the valve cover (electric operated)?

Mudder · « **Reply #473 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 02:58:18 PM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Feb 10, 2017, 01:36:09 PM

I have never hear of this before?
Are you talking about the one on the valve cover (electric operated)?

This is where I found it labeled as such http://www.yankeetoys.org/KLF/EPCDiags/22RE-EFISensors.pdf

:)bestgen4runner · « **Reply #474 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 03:08:47 PM »

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=47333.0
Its a mystery? Lol

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #475 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 06:33:59 PM »

Quote from: Mudder on Feb 10, 2017, 02:58:18 PM

This is where I found it labeled as such http://www.yankeetoys.org/KLF/EPCDiags/22RE-EFISensors.pdf

Nice find Mudder!

I am a long way from an ECU wizard, and have only spent a little time reading the EFI System in the FSM over the years.. mostly just to solve a sensor issue, test procedure, or connections.

The question of what this sensor or switch, or whatever it does, I cannot find it labeled or identified by description in my 1986 FSM. I did find it labeled on page FI-27 under a list of symbols that identify the terminals on the connectors on the ECU.

After a little bit of research on the Google, I could NOT find any explanation for this 22RE sensor. It is obviously measuring cool temperature before and after the thermostat opens. Now that I see that it is labeled as the Fuel Pressure Up Switch, if I had to make a wild guess I think it tells the ECU to send more or less fuel to the injectors and/or the cold start injector… probably at a cold start. The word “switch” probably implies an “on-off” function. The FSM indicates it is only on the 4 wheel drive vehicles, which just adds to my questions about the “what, why, and how” ??

Gnarls.

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #476 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 06:43:38 PM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Feb 10, 2017, 01:36:09 PM

I have never hear of this before?

Hey =:)bestgen4runner,

If YOU have not heard of the FPU Switch, how in the heck do you expect ME to know about it.....

I am "Grasshopper" to you

"Master Po"!!

Gnarls.

emsvitil · « **Reply #477 on:** Feb 10, 2017, 11:11:44 PM »

Quote from: :)bestgen4runner on Feb 10, 2017, 03:08:47 PM

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=47333.0
Its a mystery? Lol

You found my almost 9 year old post.........

And the answer is...........

I'm currently out of town without truck....

When cold, is the switch open or closed?

Gnarly4X · « **Reply #478 on:** Feb 11, 2017, 01:50:22 AM »

Quote from: emsvitil on Feb 10, 2017, 11:11:44 PM

You found my almost 9 year old post.........

And the answer is...........

I'm currently out of town without truck....

When cold, is the switch open or closed?

IF the switch increases fuel pressure, it would most likely do it when the engine is cold.... so the switch would be CLOSED at cold temps. If the thermostat is rated 180 degrees, it is fully open at 180 degrees, and the FPU Switch would be seeing 180d F coolant.... somewhere around there the switch will OPEN - no more need for extra fuel pressure. BUT... the FPU Switch might be set to open at a specific coolant temperature near the thermostat?

I'm not sure WHY the switch is only on 4 Wheel Drive vehicles??

Gnarls.

emsvitil · « **Reply #479 on:** Feb 11, 2017, 03:05:54 AM »

My thoughts on the switch....

It closes at higher temp to raise the fuel pressure.

The idea being that there will be less likelihood of vapor lock with higher fuel pressure when crawling in 4wd.

Higher fuel pressure will also lower the AF ratio which also would have a cooling effect on the engine.

Then finally, I know that an 86 came with a 1-wire O2 sensor. So it's possible that at idle speed the engine reverts to open-loop mode and the ECU won't correct for the slightly richer mixture. (I had an idle problem when that happened and retro-fitted a heated O2 sensor to fix the idle (which might mean this switch won't do anything on my engine because the ECU always has an O2 signal (or the ECU goes to open-loop anyway )))

Then if that's true, does the ECU only raise fuel pressure if you're in 4WD.......

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