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Engine / Re: Toybrota's 22R build
« Last post by Gnarly4X on Today at 04:40:14 AM »
A number of people who routinely rev their 22R engines up high seem end up with rod knocks.


Since the essence of Toybrota’s thread, and ongoing discussion, is engine rebuilding and longevity, here are more thoughts on your comment and gathering “data” to “benefit from a solid answer to the question: does revving my 22R engine higher shorten it’s life?”

There are many studies performed on engine parts.  Each manufacturer of engine parts has done enormous engineering design, testing, and subsequent research and analysis of failure.

Bearings are one part that has been studied extensively throughout the history of the modern production of the internal combustion engine.

For example, in one study by a well-known manufacturer of bearings, the causes of rod bearing failure has no correlation between actual engine RPMs, high or low.
Over revving an engine can induce “overload” – one of the causes of rod bearing failure. However, the misconception inferred in your statement does not apply.  The redline for Toyota's factory 22R is 5,500 RPMs.  As sirdeuce stated, at that RPM torque and HP drops significantly. Most of us are not going to tach our stock 22R engines that high very frequently.  Taching a 22R to 4,000 or 4,500 frequently is well below Toyota’s redline. But more importantly, it is in the absolute range for designed peak HP.

So why would the best automotive engineers on the planet design and market an engine, arguably now with a legendary status of very high reliability and longevity, and NOT be revv’d to its peak horsepower rating?  For a healthy 22R is rod bearing failure a risk at 5,500 RPMs?  NO.  5,500 RPMs is a threshold designed in to prevent premature bearing failure.

Back to overloading…. The main reason bearings fail due to overloading is DETONATION - NOT HIGH RPMs.

The major causes of premature bearing failure are:
Dirt – 45.4%
Misassembly – 12.8%
Misalignment – 12.6%
Insufficient Lubrication – 11.4%
Overloading – 8.1%
Corrosion – 3.7%
Improper Journal Finish – 3.2%
Other – 2.8%

By the way.... the study I referenced above does mention "RPMs"... twice.  Once regarding selecting the correct motor viscosity, and the other regarding choosing the correct bearings specifically designed for higher revving engines.

Gnarls - that's my pomp 'n stink on revving my engine "up high".  :gap:

Engine / Re: 2UZFE to R150F swap
« Last post by Lewis Hein on Yesterday at 08:06:50 PM »
This is so cool!!

I would love to see a detailed account of the hurdles you crossed along the way... must have been some.
Nothin's ever easy....  :shake:

I just had to do a driveline modification and it was surprisingly painless. I replaced the a340f with an r150f in my tundra and since everything came out about 2” shorter I had lengthen my driveline. It cost $350 to retube it, replace the carrier bearing, and replace the old ujoint.

I still have a chain driven t case so I’m stuck with the same gearing as you but I like having a manual transmission.
Sorry if this has been covered before, I had a hard time figuring out how to search for this.

Long story short, I built an 85 4runner from the ground up this winter and finally have it driveable so I'm trying to work out some of the bugs.

I put an elocker in the front axle and noticed it was binding all the time. I put the front axle on stands yesterday and tried to turn each wheel separately but notice my axle was still locked when the actuator motor was turned off. I pulled the motor off, slid the shift rail over as far as I could, but it still won't unlock. I'm on the road for the next few days so I'm trying to get some pointers for where to start when I get home.

When I hit the locker switch, it turns the indicator light on and off, which tells me that the shift rail is moving. I verified that the shift fork does move by hand. Maybe I forgot to put the shift forks on the locking mechanism? Maybe the ball detent is behind my shift rail, not allowing it to disengage entirely? I did rebuild the diffs this winter so I'm assuming I did something wrong on the assembly.

Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks guys

Is it a factory style locker.
Engine / Re: 2UZFE to R150F swap
« Last post by Northboundtundra on Yesterday at 07:24:04 PM »
Well I just got the custom driveline installed installed this afternoon and I plan on having it on the road mid next week. Both transmissions use the same transfer case and we’ve built up 400 hp Tacoma’s that have never had a transmission problem so I think it will be fine.

I’d post pictures here but I guess my account is too new to be able to do that. I have build pics on the expedition portal forum under the same username if you want to check it out. I plan on posting a build thread here too so other people who are interested in doing the same thing can check it out.
Engine / Re: Does revving your 22R high shorten its life? Let's find out!
« Last post by sirdeuce on Yesterday at 06:28:00 PM »
Basically, for a relation between engine life and RPM, the 20-22R/RE engine family, in stock form, won't rev high enough to shorten the engines life. With the exception of a few (gas) engines RPMs up to 6500RPMs don't really accelerate wear. If the engineering is right, weights, fluid flow rates, bearing surface area should be capable of operating parameters well beyond the stated limits before longevity becomes diminished. At least as long as the operator performs proper maintenance.
With that said, I will say look at my earlier post and consider that opinion is based on hundreds of 20-22R engines from stock to wild, to stoopid.

One thing that kills an engine faster than anything else is loading at low RPM when the oil pressure is low, an of course bogging the engine. The R engine is one that does well there likke the Ford 2.3 "Pinto" and 2 liter Mazda/Ford engine, 2.7 liter Pontiac/Jeep "Iron Duke", a few more as well as far as 4 bangers. I found the engineering to battle killer bog issue is wider than necessary bearing/journal areas with larger clearances and high volume oil supply. Though oil starvation negates any engineering devised to battle overloading the engine. Just the way that goes.

The 22R is tuned to drop power hard after 5500RPM so in stock form spinning the engine to RPMs that could be considered dangerous or detrimental to the internal components is unnecessary.
Engine / Re: Does revving your 22R high shorten its life? Let's find out!
« Last post by Prismo on Yesterday at 06:10:26 PM »
I regularly shift at 4 to 5,000 rpm with my engine and see no difference in longevity compared to running it at lower rpms when shifting. I used to limit my engines to 4000 rpm in 2 of my earlier engines. They all seem to last the same number of miles. That is my experience over 4 different 22re engines. Changing oil & filter & adjusting valves at regular intervals seem to affect longevity more.
Engine / Re: 2UZFE to R150F swap
« Last post by Toybrota on Yesterday at 03:36:35 PM »
Has anyone here mated a 2uzfe engine to an r150f transmission? I just swapped out the automatic on my 2uzfe powered tundra and curious to find out about other people who have done this.
I think you'll have a hell of a time getting that truck to work with a manual. Especially since the platform was never meant to have a manual.
I personally haven't mounted a 2UZ to one, but I am curious like you!
A five speed tundra would be nice, curious how well the R150F holds up.

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk

I've been working on this project since january of this year.  Lot's of stuff has happened that delayed the project but, in the end I've been able to make it happen. Main goal is to swap out the stock ADD transfer case from my 2000 tundra V8 and install a manual transfer case from taco.  I've been having issues with the 4LO gear.  I'm able to engage 4HI but, not go into the 4LO.  I believe the actuator at the transfer case is what's causing the problem.  So instead of spending money I don't have on a lefty xfer case, I located a couple of donor stock xfer cases from a taco.

Swap of the xfer case is pretty much complete.  I still need a shifter knob, a console to hide the cut up carpet and replace connectors to match for the 4HI and 4LO senosr connectors.  Here are some pics of the swap.

Starting on the left: tundra stock xfer case, taco xfer case i recently acquired, rebuilt xfer case with bad shifter.

Beer break, Great White from Lost Coast Brewery.

Bearing puller tool I used to separate the coupler from the input shaft.

Tundra auto coupler left, taco auto coupler right.

Drilled a hole to locate the start of the shifter opening.  Used a sabre saw and a sawzall to cut the opening.

Speed sensor.  Tundra auto on the left.

Shifter access complete.

Manual xfer case mounted

Everything bolted up from underneath.  4LO, 4HI and ADD connectors hanging.  Need to replace the connectors to allow the connection to the taco sensors.  ADD setup will later be removed.

Shifter installed.  Need to find a shifter boot and knob to complete the swap.

Otherwise, everything works.  Need to get use to shifting gears in park and/or nuetral.

Now I need to test everything all long with the winch. :devil:

Did you get the dash indicator to work after you did this?
Engine / 2UZFE to R150F swap
« Last post by Northboundtundra on Yesterday at 12:26:26 PM »
Has anyone here mated a 2uzfe engine to an r150f transmission? I just swapped out the automatic on my 2uzfe powered tundra and curious to find out about other people who have done this.
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