Author Topic: The Macheen rebuild  (Read 39279 times)

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nwflyoda

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #270 on: May 04, 2018, 07:23:58 AM »
Small update:

Since the wiring is complete, i started working on the brakes.

In preparation, i knew that i'd need to install the driver seat so that i could pump the pedal if need be to bleed the brakes.  I plan to use a pressure bleeder to get the air out of the system but just in case i need to pump the pedal, i'd rather do it with my foot than my arm.

First i had to adjust the safety harnesses so that they are the correct length and will actually tighten up on me.  Then the seat was installed.



After that, i went ahead and put the front axle on jack stands so that i could remove the tires and start working on the brakes.  I sometimes forget just how far over i moved the drive train within the frame rails; but from this view, you can really see just how far over the engine sits.



While the front end was on the stands, i wanted to take this time and hook up the OX locker lever to the unimog locker. 



I didn't get a picture of it, but i also welded a 1/2" u bolt to the tubing in front of my steering ram to use as an anchor point for my winch in the event that i need to suck down the front suspension.  I shouldn't need it but its better to have it and not need it vs not have it and need it.  Also, I welded another 1/2" u bolt to the bottom of my stinger so that i can hook the winch rope to it when i'm not using the winch.

I should have taken care of those 2 things before i painted everything but it was something that i honestly didn't think about at that time and wanted to add before the truck was done.

One item that i noticed and need to take care of before the rig was done, was to replace the passenger front wheel seal on the portal box.  When i bought the axles, that portal box leaked.  To remove the wheel hub, i bought a 12 ton hydraulic gear puller and it made quick work to remove the hub.  I replaced the seal and went to reinstall the hub and realized that this was not going to go on as easily as it came off.  In my research, i came across Expedition Imports and the tool that they had from Mercedes to do this.  Two problems though; one, the tool was not in stock.  Secondly, the tool was nearly 1k.

So improvise and since i have 2 full sets of these axles, i took one of my spare wheel hub bolts and cut it down.  I then center drilled it out and then opened the bore for about 3/4" on the bottom side of the gear.  While i could have just pulled the portal box off and used a hydraulic press to drive the hub back on, i needed to have a means to do this job on the trail in the event that i break a portal box.





The idea behind that, was so that i can take some 1" all thread, and turn it down to fit inside of the hub bolt.  Then weld the all thread to the hub bolt on both the top and bottom.  Next, i started turning down the all thread and it was then ready to be welded together.



Here is the final product/tool. 



With that done, all that i needed was a steel plate to rest against the hub surface and then the nut to thread onto the all thread that would drive the hub back onto the portal box gear.  I stopped by a local speed shop and they had some coil spring pads for circle track cars to be able to adjust their ride height or spring rate.  The bonus about that, was that it already had a nut welded onto it with the same thread/pitch as the all thread that i have.  I bought that along with anther steel ring and started to press the hub back on. 



The newly built tool worked like a champ until it came down to the point where the steel rings binded against the 2 dowel pins that protruded past the portal hub gear.  I then was able to install the stock bolt and washer and used my hub bolt wrench and install the hub the rest of the way.



Now that those items were taken care of, it was finally time to start working on the brakes.  I loosely installed the brake caliper so that i could get some measurements for the spacers that i would need to make.  Theses steering axles came with most of the adapter parts and pieces but i would have to make a few more to be able to install all of the brakes.  But one thing that i didn't like about the adapters, was that it would require a lot of washers to take up the space between the brake caliper and the mounting point at the portal box.  That seems like a poor design and something that could easily get lost at camp in the even that i had to replace a portal box.  I took some measurements and will be cutting the adapters out on the lathe with some 3/4" solid stock.  But in the mean time, here is what the brake caliper looks like mocked up on the axle.







Now its time to get all of the adapters made so that i can start running the brake lines.  I hope that within the next 2 weeks, all of the brakes will be done and i'll be driving the rig around town to work any bugs out before my first shake down run.  Its getting very close!!
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #271 on: May 17, 2018, 05:46:07 AM »
Update:

The brakes on the front axle are complete.

Once I finished up installing the driver side caliper, I move onto the passenger side where of course there was an issue.  I ended up having to grind some material off of the caliper to get it to clear the portal box.  Another issue I had on that side was that the banjo bolt would hit the portal box.  I then chucked the bolt into the lathe and remedied that situation.



I was surprised by the issues that I had on the passenger side since the driver side worked without any issue.  But I really shouldn’t have been surprised since none of this is a direct bolt on so it certainly takes some tweaking to get everything happy.  After all, I'm using Mog axles, with Dodge rotors and corvette calipers...what do you mean it won’t just bolt together easily.  haha

But once that was done, I installed the caliper and plumbed the brake line along the upper 3 link bar then onto the axle housing where it would “T” and then finally meet each caliper.

Here are a few pictures of the front brakes.

The driver side brake caliper.  You can see how tightly everything fits within the 16.5” H1 wheel.



The brake line as it runs down the frame and transitions to steel braided line.  Later, I zip tied the wiring to the brake line to better secure the wires from moving about.



This is a rough idea on how the brake line runs along the upper link.  Its a hard line that then transitions to a steel braided line at the heim.  You can barely see the brake line running under the hoses for the steering.



Finally, you can see where the brake lines “T” then go to the brake caliper.



Once that was done along with the other misc items for the front end, it was time to turn it around in the garage so that I'm not cramed for space against my a/c and hot water heater.  This gave me the opportunity to drive the truck for the first time.  While the front brake still didn’t work since they were full of air, I had enough gearing to not move too fast.

And of course, I had to take a few photos of it outside. 







I will admit, until I saw this outside of the garage for the first time like this, I honestly didn’t realize the  size of the rig.  It cleared the garage door without any issues even with 25 psi of air in the tires and the struts fully filled.

Now, I will be working on the rear brakes, locker and I'm going to move the sensing ram mount for the rear steer.  After talking to John at Stazworks, it appears that it isn’t mounted as it should.  What lead me to that discussion with him, was that the ram doesn't auto return the rear steering equally and it doesn’t turn the same distance each way either.  He requested a picture of how I have the sensing ram mounted and he suggested that I move the mounts so that they form a 90 degree in relation to the the upper ball joint.  If you look straight down on the sensing ram and take the 3 points, axle side mount, steering arm mount, and upper ball joint; he said that they all should form a 90 degree.  I hope that makes sense to those reading it, I may not have explained it properly.  Unfortunately, the instructions didn’t include anything on how to mount the sensing ram so hopefully that’ll get added for his future kits but at any rate, it should be an easy fix.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #272 on: May 17, 2018, 07:08:31 AM »
Glad to see it rolling. Ole Toby looks like hes about to pull down the garage.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #273 on: May 17, 2018, 07:17:55 AM »
Toby tries to pull the garage with him.  He did manage to break his leash going after a cat one day, it was pretty funny.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #274 on: May 17, 2018, 07:23:54 AM »
What is the over all width of the rig with the wheels straight?
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #275 on: May 17, 2018, 07:31:29 AM »
Over all width is 92" right now.  But that may change depending on if i recent the wheels to get rid of the wheel spacers.  If i recenter the wheels, the over all width would end up closer to 96".
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #276 on: May 17, 2018, 07:38:30 AM »
Not bad at all. The 4runner when I had 14's on it was 97 wide.

Also, now that you have the land yacht what trailer will you be using?
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #277 on: May 17, 2018, 08:58:22 AM »
My concern is scrub radius.  When you start increasing the scrub radius, it can cause portal box failures.  But if i want to get rid of the wheel spacers, i will have to go wider...as strange as that may be to say. 

i've got a 28' 2 car hauler bumper pull trailer.  I should be able to drive over the fenders but it not (haven't tested it yet) i'll add the bracing/structure to drive over the fenders.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #278 on: May 17, 2018, 09:56:19 AM »
It might not have enough gearing to make it over the fenders.  :dunno:
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #279 on: May 17, 2018, 10:01:31 AM »
true...i'll just have to hammer down then.  haha
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #280 on: May 17, 2018, 10:04:50 AM »
Boggs shakedown run in a month or so?
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #281 on: May 17, 2018, 10:20:16 AM »
I'm gonna try to hit up the swamp or boggs this weekend, but if i can't; i'll be going to Morris Mountain next weekend.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #282 on: May 17, 2018, 10:28:41 AM »
Heck yeah!
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #283 on: May 17, 2018, 10:34:54 AM »
The location this weekend will depend on if there are any issues getting the brakes done today or tomorrow.  Worst case, i'll just drive it around town and put it on an RTI ramp to triple check the clearances then head out memorial day weekend to Morris.
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #284 on: May 26, 2018, 04:23:53 PM »
Update:

The truck is done!!!!  Well...lets face it, these sort of projects are never really done.  But this phase is done and once i work the bugs out, it'll be ready for the trails.

To catch everyone up what has taken place since the last update, i had to finish up the brakes and a few odds and ends inside the cab.  Since the front brakes were already done, i started to plumb the rear brakes.  I ran into a bit of an issue with the driver rear caliper.  No matter what i would do, it would still weep fluid between the copper washer and the caliper.  I ended up having to warranty out the caliper and then i was finally able to get it to seal.

Here is how i routed the brake lines at the caliper as well as the offending caliper that didn't want to cooperate.



To keep the lines from being pinched between the bed floor and the axle during full stuff scenarios, i ran the lines on the outside of the upper heim.



The brake lines were routed along the passenger side upper link bar and connected to the bulkhead fittings at the back of the cab with some 24" steel braided lines.



With the rear brakes done, it was time to start the bleeding process.  This has proved to be a pain since EVERYTHING in the brake system is brand new and full of air.  But with each time that i bleed the brakes, they got better and better.

So, i took the truck for its maiden drive around the block.  During the drive, i picked up a buddy that lives on the street behind me and we proceeded to drive around the block.  While this usually isn't a big event, it was a big deal for me since this was the first drive around with the truck after the rebuild.  As can be expected with any new build, i had a couple issues.  The first, was that the brakes sucked.  I didn't really have any good pedal.  The second, was that it popped the radiator hose off of the aluminum/steel tubing.  It turns out, that even when you pressure test the coolant system well beyond what it should see pressure wise (i pressure tested to 20 psi and the radiator cap is set to 16), things are a lot different once they have some heat in them and the engine is running.  To fix the first issue, i just had to continue the process of bleeding the brakes a bit more.  I still need/want to bleed them some more since i saw a very slight bit of TINY bubbles the last time but they work a lot better than before.  To fix the second issue, i had to have some beads welded onto the ends of the aluminum and steel tubing for the hoses to hold onto better.  Once that was done, they no longer pop off.

Now that the brakes were good to go and i took care of the issues from the first test drive, i wanted to tackle the odds and ends inside the truck.  The first one to address was the heater controls.  I made a template out of cardboard, transferred it to some sheet metal and then brought it over along with some of my orange carbon fiber to my buddy that built the door panels and other carbon fiber work.  Below is the end result.



I did the same treatment for the spot on the dash below the factory heat/A/C controls so that i had somewhere to mount a 12v outlet.  Here is the final product of that same treatment.



With both of them done, this is how they look in the dash.



This is how the interior looks now in all of its carbon fiber glory!



While i know everything about the wiring is fresh in my mind, i also know that there will be a time when I'll forget which relay or component controls what.  So, i took the time to make some labels for them.



The last thing that i needed to address on the inside of the truck, is the recessed panel/box for my glove box.  This needed to be built in order to clear the heater core lines.  I used some cardboard to make a few templates so that i can again, transfer them onto some sheet metal.  Once that was all said and done, it was time to weld er up.

This is what the box looks like before i installed it into the glove box.  Yes, the welds suck.  The box kept falling off of the stand when i would start welding.  ugh!



Here is what it looks like installed into the glove box.



In case anyone forgot why i had to do that, here is the reason.  In the background you can see the 2 aluminum lines for the heater core.



The last thing to button up under the hood was to make a bracket to secure the air filter line to keep it from bouncing around to much.  Plus to keep it off of the turbo piping.  I didn't need to do anything fancy here, i just welded a tab onto the tubing that slides into the air filter, then i used an adel clamp around the cage.



I finally got my sticker made from a buddy, and had to add it to the hood.  While the truck is not a unimog by any means, i wanted to pay tribute to them since I'm running their axles.



Time for a quick story.  Last night, i finally wrapped up the last odds and ends on the truck and wanted to take it for another test drive around the block.  I pulled the truck out of the garage and as i was closing up the garage, i got a call from a buddy of mine that is in town.  He asked me to bring a strap to him since his wife got her samurai stuck in the sand at a local beach bar and left his at his trailer at the condo.  I smiled and said sure, I'll bring one.  Mind you, this beach bar is only about 2 miles from my house.  So, it seemed like a good change to drive the truck around a bit more.  I took the truck around the block and pulled back into my driveway to ensure that there were no leaks and everything is good to go before i attempt to pull out into traffic with the truck.  Everything checked out good, so i made my way to the beach bar.  Once i got there, they were shocked that i had the truck done and then let me pull the sami out of the sand.  She got a video and I'm still waiting for them to send it to me...it wasn't the greatest quality since it was at night but still neat none the less.

The one thing that i will either have to get used to, or I'll have to change out, is the orbital valve.  I say this because the steering is VERY touchy.  i have a 10" stroke ram and when i bought the valve from trail-gear, i went with their recommended one which is the 160 model...which seems to be a big mistake.  Don't get me wrong, it works great!  Probably better suited for a dedicated trail rig.  The problem is that since this truck does see a little street use, having that quick of a ratio seems a little too much at speed.  It takes about 2.8 turns of the steering wheel from lock to lock.  I may be able to get used to it so it may not be a big deal.

Today i had a beach party to go.  The weather WAS nice, so i took the crawler out and brought it there.  Once i got there, i checked the truck out a bit more and noticed that the driver front portal input seal is bad and leaked fluid all over the tire.  That'll need to be replaced and luckily, they aren't too expensive.  Its just a little disappointing since i just replaced the portal output seal on that same portal box.  Oh well though, its not like these axles are brand new.  The reason i said the weather was nice, was that with the tropical storm approaching the south of us, some rain was coming.  I jumped into the truck and tried to make my way home before the bottom fell out of the storm but i was too late.  This just gave me the change to test out my wipers and to see how the truck did in the rain.  Everything worked great though and i even had to use the heat/defrost on the windshield.

I was able to snap a couple photos of the rig parked.  No, the trailer isn't connected to the truck.  It just happened to be behind me in the photo.



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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #285 on: May 26, 2018, 10:06:27 PM »
I’d like to request some video of this beautiful thing in action.
I need to hear it and see it do work.
Possibly My all time favorite build.

I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #286 on: May 27, 2018, 07:06:44 AM »
Thank you.  I'll definitely post up some videos of it in action.  The only video that i have right now, is the recover at night.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #287 on: May 29, 2018, 01:29:12 PM »
:woohoo:
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #288 on: May 30, 2018, 05:23:16 AM »
Maiden voyage in the crew cab is Friday headed your way for bowlegs. I'll have to stop by on the way back Sunday if your going to be around.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #289 on: May 30, 2018, 05:28:36 AM »
Yeah, i should be around.  Just holler when you head my way.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #290 on: May 30, 2018, 05:41:42 AM »
Update:

The truck is done!!!! 

WOW!!   I cannot imagine the hours and dollars spent on such a project!  :dunno:

Incredible looking "Macheen"!!!!!  :thumbs:

Congrats on an extraordinary build!!  :beerchug:

Gnarls.  :D


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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #291 on: May 30, 2018, 05:45:54 AM »
Thank you.  A few of my buddies have wondered how many hours i put into the build.  I should have kept track when i was working on the build and i'm half tempted to get an estimate.  haha
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #292 on: May 30, 2018, 05:51:12 AM »
WOW!!   I cannot imagine the hours and dollars spent on such a project!  :dunno:

Incredible looking "Macheen"!!!!!  :thumbs:

Congrats on an extraordinary build!!  :beerchug:

Gnarls.  :D

Wow, i just roughly added up the hours...looks close to 2800 hrs.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #293 on: May 30, 2018, 06:07:58 AM »
Not much compared to the drag truck. :psss:
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #294 on: May 30, 2018, 06:11:01 AM »
Actually the drag truck took a lot less time.  I built during the winter and spring of one year.  But that doesn't count the time i had in it getting the engine work done obviously.  But i had more money tied in the drag truck for sure!
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #295 on: Jun 01, 2018, 12:51:52 PM »
Update:

After the road trip, i bleed the brakes a couple more times and they seem to be working good now.  I still need to play with the proportioning valve a bit more to get the brakes dialed in.

I drove the truck to a friends house to throw it on his 30 degree RTI ramp.  Here are a few pics of the truck on the ramp.











I still had 25 psi of air in the tires and i will say, i'm really impressed with how much the lugs on the tires will still fold over.  This picture doesn't quite do it justice on just how much the lugs folded/twisted over.



I found out that i needed to trim the front fenders a bit more.  I cycled the suspension before i painted the fenders but it appears that some things have shifted just slightly enough so that now the tires hits them.  So i went ahead and trimmed 1/2" off of the fender.  Now its just a matter of working through any other bugs that may show up but i'm ready to take it on its first shake down run.

Since i've gotten the rig done, there are 2 things that i've wanted to know.  What the over all weight was and what the weight distribution is.  I borrowed some corner scales to find this info out.



Here is the over all weight/distribution of the truck.  I was pleased when i saw the weight although i will admit, i was hoping it weight a little less.  But the fact that it has a 50/50 weight distribution is really nice.


redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #296 on: Jun 03, 2018, 09:41:30 AM »
Is that with you in it?
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #297 on: Jun 03, 2018, 09:43:45 AM »
No, just the truck.
84 Yota Pebble Pounder

OVRAROK

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #298 on: Jun 03, 2018, 01:43:53 PM »
This thing is bad a**. You did a fantastic job :bowdown:
even the most primitive society has an intimate respect for the insane

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #299 on: Jun 04, 2018, 09:00:24 AM »
This is your theme for the Macheen.

https://youtu.be/paG1-lPtIXA
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

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