Author Topic: The Macheen rebuild  (Read 39394 times)

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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #240 on: May 14, 2017, 05:39:20 PM »
Does your g series use the same plug as a w? If so I'm sure I have one I can send. Glad to see the old lockitup logo hanging in there. Who makes that paint? I really like that.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #241 on: May 15, 2017, 05:12:49 AM »
Does your g series use the same plug as a w? If so I'm sure I have one I can send. Glad to see the old lockitup logo hanging in there. Who makes that paint? I really like that.

I am not sure about the fill plug.  I'd like to assume that it would be the same but i really don't know.  I could always try it and if it doesn't work send it back to you.  Oh yeah, that sticker isn't going anywhere!

The paint is made by rustoleum.  Its their gloss sand protect enamel.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #242 on: May 19, 2017, 11:03:11 AM »
I love the rustoleum product lines.  :thumbs:
Spray from rattle can or Gun. I assume gun but have seen impressive results from can with the right guy using it.
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
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Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #243 on: May 19, 2017, 11:19:07 AM »
I love the rustoleum product lines.  :thumbs:
Spray from rattle can or Gun. I assume gun but have seen impressive results from can with the right guy using it.

Their products are great.

I used the ole fashioned can for my build actually.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #244 on: May 19, 2017, 02:25:16 PM »
I love the rustoleum product lines.  :thumbs:
Spray from rattle can or Gun. I assume gun but have seen impressive results from can with the right guy using it.

if you use a can like a HVLP gun.. results can be miles from an average joe just flogging it on. ive done full paint jobs with a can, (well like 15 to be exact)
« Last Edit: May 24, 2017, 10:33:06 AM by THK Matt »
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #245 on: May 23, 2017, 05:50:08 PM »
Update:

There hasn't been a lot of progress lately, i had to head out of town for work.  But i did want to get several items installed on the truck before i left.

The engine is now back in its final resting place.  Man was it a pain in the ass to install this time.  The only thing that really fought me was getting the engine mounts to slide down in between the tabs on the frame.  Between tightening the bolts before, fully welding everything, the tolerances shrunk and left me cussing a bit more than the norm to get her bolted in.  Its funny how small it looks with out the turbo or intake on.



The truck now has a new windshield.  I bought a used one from a buddy of mine but after i cleaned it up, i noticed that it had a pretty nice chip right in the driver's view.  So, i will keep it as a spare and i just bought a new one and had it installed. 



The next item up was to install the transmission.  This went a lot easier than i had expected considering how much more work the engine was this go around.  From the below picture, you can see just how much of a steep angle i have to lift the transmission at in order to have the bell housing clear the engine yet still allow enough room for the cross members. 



But now the transmission is fully bolted to the engine.  All that i have left to do on this is to bolt on the engine braces between the bottom of the block and the lower bell housing bolts.



Now that the transmission is installed, i was able to install the 43s. 



The last piece of the puzzle that i wanted to get installed before my trip was the top side of the cage.  The truck is starting to come together nicely and it won't be long before i'm running the plumbing and wiring.



I was finally able to get the hood painted but the ox head didn't turn out quiet like i had wanted.  Everything was going great but i think i got a little too impatient when it came to let the orange paint dry before i applied the decal.  Once i had the entire hood painted tan, i went to pull the decal off to reveal the orange and sadly, some of the orange paint and primer came off with the decal.  The extra humidity that we've had down here lately doesn't help but this is something that i'll definitely be readdressing.  For now, the hood has been placed out of the way along with the rest of the body panels, in a safe location....my guest room in the house.  lol  once i'm done with everything else on the truck, i'll install the panels.  But i do think the hood will look great once its all said and done.  Here is what she looked like after the decal was removed.



Once i come back from my trip, i plan to start the rebuild of the dana 300 so that i can get the tcase bolted back in along with the drive lines.

Here soon i'll have to start installing the propane tanks as well as the plumbing for it.  I'm still trying to decide the best location for the "evaporator" and mixer.  I know the mixer will be on the driver side nearish to the turbo.  i was planning on using the old heater core coolant lines for the evaporator.  I'd just have to find a location for it out of the way from the exhaust heat.

Speaking of the exhaust, i think i'm going to have to wrap the exhaust with header wrap.  Initially, i wanted to use stainless piping and have it all nicely tig welded up but with how close the exhaust will run to the firewall as well as the clutch hydraulic line and other hoses, i may not have a choice but to wrap it.  Then that will negate the point of having a nicely stainless exhaust tig'd up.

My plan to render the turbo piping in stainless is still a go though.  As always, i'll be sure to update the thread with more progress and too many photos.  lol
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #246 on: Jun 15, 2017, 12:51:16 PM »
Update:

Made a little progress lately.  Nothing special to note really but there has been several little things taken care of.

First and foremost, the dana 300 has been fully rebuilt and now the entire drive train is now in the truck and bolted together.  This has been exciting for me since now i don't have to rely on the wheel chock for keeping the truck from moving.



Had to bend the shift levers for the dana 300 so that they don't hit the dash when in high range.  The only issue now with them bent back like this, is that when they are in low range, the rear output knob touches the right rear cutting brake lever.  This will be fixed once i bend the cutting brake levers to allow better clearance/room to reach the trans shifter.



The heater core is now plumbed to the firewall.  I still have to take care of the plumbing of the heater core inside the cab, but the under hood portion is complete.  i will still need to drill a hole for the heater control valve wiring connection to pass through but i'll address that along with the needed grommet when i'm working on the wiring of the truck.



I took care of a couple small things like the winch clutch disengage lever.  In the back ground, you can see that the vaporizer is now bolted down in its new home as well.



The cutting brake lever is now mounted as well.



And mounting of the rear steer electric pump.  i ended up cutting a piece of the UHMW material to be used as a sort of brace for the end of the pump/motor.  I didn't have a lot of confidence in the mount since it had so much leverage against it with the weight of the motor hanging off so far on one end.  I was concerned that while i'm bouncing around off road, that it would crack the mount or bracket.



The PSC power steering pump was finally bolted into its new home.



Although i don't have any pictures handy at the moment, i modified the Taurus fan shroud to fit the new radiator then mounted the radiator.  I also placed the battery where it will be to get an over all idea on how much space i'll have.  After mounting the propane tanks back in the bed, i won't have enough space to put my tool box back in but, i do have a big ammo can that i can use for some things.  I'll try to source another ammo can and then that'll give me more space for fluids and recovery gear.



The item that i'm working on at the moment is the alternator mount.  The alternator will have to be mounted backwards on the engine.  I reached out to the local repair shop that rebuilds electric motors and alternators and they said it won't have any issue with the alternator spinning backwards to charge the battery.

I plan to have the truck fully plumbed steering and brake wise before i start working on the wiring.  Which i'm hoping will start soon.  I first need to decide on the hoses that i will use for the hydraulic steering lines.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #247 on: Jun 15, 2017, 02:46:37 PM »
i dont know if i missed it, but what are your Dana 300 specs?
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #248 on: Jun 15, 2017, 03:08:56 PM »
Its a stock dana 300.  I've already got enough gearing between the doubler and axles that i didn't want any more gearing from the tcases.
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #249 on: Jun 23, 2017, 01:14:14 PM »
Update:

I'm continuing to plug away at the truck.  One of the first things that i wanted to tackle is the alternator mount.  As i mentioned before, due to the lack of room under the lower intake plenum, my only real option for location was to mount the alternator on backwards.  I modified the upper bracket that came with the GM 1 wire conversion and then i built my own bracket that captured 2 bolt locations on the side of the block just behind the timing cover.  If i recall correctly, they were originally used for the A/C.



Here you can see what the lower bracket looks like before paint.



I then sat down and tried to plan out the hose routing for the rear steering.  I pulled the trigger and ordered a bunch of fittings...boy did these add up!

First was to mount the power steering reservoir and pump.  For the reservoir, i wanted to make sure that the fluid would flow as directly to the pump as i could.  So, i built a small bracket and mounted it just above the pump.  This worked out well since the fluid now exits directly about the inlet of the pump.  I routed the radiator over flow line and the vent line for the reservoir together down under the bed so that if the truck does over heat, the boiling water will be away from the possibly open back window of the truck.



From there i mounted the cooler.  While the picture makes the angle look deceiving, the cooler is level with the bed floor.



The rear steer valve was then mounted.  I tucked it up out of the way where my exhaust use to pass.  Just behind the valve, you can see the radiator and reservoir vent lines running to the bottom of the bed.



Once those components were mounted, the fun began for the plumbing.  One of the things that i need to ensure for the lines that routed to the rear axle, that there would be plenty of slack in them at the upper link mount so that it does not rip the lines or fittings during the suspension travel.  The high pressure lines have the zinc plated fittings and low pressure return lines are black.

I used 2 bulkhead fittings to route the fluid from inside the bed to the inner wheel well area and then plumbed them to the steering valve.



Here is how the lines are plumbed for the pump, reservoir and cooler.  The pump had its own fluid return that i plumbed directly to the reservoir which is hard to see from this picture.



With the rear plumbing out of the way, i previously ordered the other locker cable so it was time to install the locker levers.  This went pretty quick but all that I've got left to do as far as they go, is to lift the truck and weld the brackets onto the mog locker arms.



I'll finish up with the lower radiator hose and then start working on mounting the front power steering cooler.  I still need to make a bracket for the front reservoir but i think it will have to protrude through the hood some since i'm just lacking the space to keep it above the pump and below the hood line.  25 lbs of crap in a 5 lb bag.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #250 on: Jun 28, 2017, 11:31:28 AM »
Getting closer by the day. I can't wait to see it crab steering down the road.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #251 on: Jun 28, 2017, 01:06:11 PM »
Getting closer by the day. I can't wait to see it crab steering down the road.

me too, i'll have to get their reactions on camera too.  i'm sure most will be really confused about it.
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #252 on: Jun 28, 2017, 03:45:59 PM »
me too, i'll have to get their reactions on camera too.  i'm sure most will be really confused about it.

guy up here has a rad FJ on 2.5tons that crawls with at the HAVOC event north of me. always turns heads in our parades when it crab walks it downtown. awesome!

it was actually in TTC a few years ago
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

Instagram @ taytershubby13

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #253 on: Jul 30, 2017, 07:08:18 PM »
Update:

I haven't gotten as much done on the truck lately, had to take a bit of a break on it due to prepping for a big certification exam for work.  Now that is done and out of the way, i can shift focus back onto the crawler.

One of the first things i wanted to do was install the head lights.  The truck has never had the lights installed during the rebuild and i was eager to get them in and see how they looked.  I'm pretty stoked how the front end looks now with them in.



I started working on finishing up the coolant line plumbing under the hood.  I routed the lines that used to go to the heater core to the vaporizer now.  With how closing it passes below the header, i wrapper it with some heat shield.  As I'm looking through my Flickr account, i realized that i failed to take a photo of the engine bay with the heater plumbed.  haha A photo will come shortly to show that.

One of the lines that i didn't like fully was how i initially ran was the hard line that ran at an angle from the - 16 AN hose to the silicon hose during mock up; so i built another extension for the hard line between the silicon hoses and was able to make a bracket off of the winch mount for the coolant line.  This turned out a  lot better!



I did start working on the front power steering plumbing.  As of now, all that i have to plumb is the cooler to the reservoir, and the reservoir to the pump.  But all of the high pressure lines and lines from the steering valve to the cooler are done.  In the below pictures, it really starts to show just how compact I'm having to package everything to get it to fit in there.  First i had to build a bracket to hold the cooler.  i made a plate that has 2 tabs on it that captures the bolts that hold the winch together, then bolted the cooler to it.  I cut 3 holes in the bracket to allow more air flow but yet should still protect the cooler if for some reason, the synthetic winch line would break and spring back attempting to damage the cooler.  While i don't see that last bit happening, I'd rather error on the side of caution.



View from the passenger side wheel well.



View from the driver side wheel well.



With the coolant lines plumbed under the hood, i was able to then install the firewall dash panel.  This allowed me to finally install the heater core.  One funny item to note, while i was filling the radiator, i forgot that i didn't have the heater core plumbed from the - 10 AN bulkhead fittings, so as i was filling it and checking for leaks under the hood, i happen to hear some water running then looked in the cab to see a stream of water flowing out of the one bulkhead fittings.  hahahaha  it would have flowed out of both but the other had the heater control valve plumbed.  At this point, i at least knew that the engine had water up to the cylinder head at least.



You may have noticed that the front trans tunnel panel has yet to be installed, this is because i haven't changed the fluid in the trans and its easiest to access/fill the trans with that panel out of the way.  So, I'll leave that until i finally change the fluid.

While i still need to order the fittings to plumb the heater core, i went ahead and finished welded up the dash bar with the passenger grab handle bracket, then painted and installed it into the truck.  This allowed me to bolt the steering column in the truck.  It's starting to look like a truck inside again.



I don't recall if i mentioned it before or not, but i was finally able to come up with a solution to the rear brake reservoir issue.  I'm going to use a remote clutch reservoir from an older Honda Civic.  This should provide plenty of fluid plus the outlet is on its side at the bottom.  The only issue is that its outlet is 1/4" and the inlet to the master cylinder is 3/8".  After racking my head trying to figure this out, i had a bit of a light bulb moment...well, a dim light bulb moment at least.  hahaha  The fix is to use a 1/4" to 3/8" hose adapter.  This should work well just as long as the 1/4" fuel hose can handle the brake fluid.  The 3/8" hose came with the master cylinder so i know it'll handle the brake fluid.  Now i need to modify the reservoir bracket and bolt it into place on the lip of the cowl under the hood so that i can start to plumb the brakes.



Over the next few days, i plan to build the power steering reservoir bracket and find out what fittings i need and order them.

On a side note, i picked up a new DD.  I have been driving a '14 Ram 3500 dually every day but I've recently decided to look into a Toterhome for wheeling trips and as well as other trips to see family.  I certainly can't afford to have a dually payment plus, a toterhome payment; so the dually will be going up for sale soon.  In order to still have a DD, i bought an 2wd '86 Yota xtra cab pickup.  I've got some minor plans for this ole girl but this is the first step in my plan to get a toter, find a new DD.  It's an SR5, it has cruise control, a/c, rear window defrost, power windows/locks, sunroof, and a few other little items.  I've had to put a starter, fuel filter and battery in it, but so far; I've put over 130 miles on it this past weekend and its fun to drive around.  A lot easier to fit into parking spaces then the ole dually.  hahaha  She most likely will get a 3rz down the road, but for now; I'll rock her with the 22re for a bit.



That's about it for this update. 
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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #254 on: Aug 03, 2017, 08:17:52 AM »
2jz :popcorn: make it fun!
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
5.2L V8, 44RE, NP249, 33X12.50R15s on MT Classics, 5.5in Iron Rock Off Road Critical Path F/R

Trailer Build http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103261

2005 Dodge Durango Limited 5.7L Hemi Wife's Daily

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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #255 on: Aug 03, 2017, 08:33:21 AM »
2jz :popcorn: make it fun!

i like where your mind is...but I'm going to be picking up another 2wd truck that will get a 2jz.
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #256 on: Jan 06, 2018, 08:05:55 PM »
Long over due update:

First off, I hope everyone had a great break over the holidays.

Sadly, i haven't made as much progress lately as i would have liked due to work, fixing the little yota, selling the dually and trailer, and finding, buying, and working on the toterhome.  I did manage to sneak a little time here and there to tinker with the crawler and get a few things done.

To start, DD yota

I've had do a little bit of work to it to get it ready to be my DD.  I've had to replace the starter, the battery, replace upper intake gaskets and troubleshoot/track down the vacuum leak as well as track down a couple electrical issues with the engine harness.  Those issues left me on the side of the road while driving it due to blowing the EFI fuse.  The engine harness is not in great shape to say the least but i think I've got it taken care off enough to DD.  Well, at least well enough to drive till the motor gets swapped out.   I also picked up a complete running '96 Tacoma for a donor truck to put the 2RZ and 5 spd from it into my yota since my trans is horrible to drive.  With it in gear, i can literally move the shifter around in about a 4" diameter circle.  I've replaced the bushings and cup but the cup that goes onto the ball of the shifter keeps falling off into the trans since the shift rail is so worn out.  Once i had most of the quirks worked out of it (at least enough to trust it getting me back and forth to work), i sold my '14 Ram and this became the DD.  Once the dually was gone, i was able to start looking for a toterhome.

Toterhome

I was excited to have found one in my price range and was able to pick it up.  I did have to drive 12 hrs to get it in Dayton, OH.  I've already gone on a few road trips with it (No Mercy 8, Orlando, Bristol, and a local off road park) and am continuing to work out any bugs that it may have.  Its a 2005 Freightliner Business class M2 with a HaulMark conversion and it sat a good bit before i bought it.  It used to be a garage model but the garage has since been converted into a maser bedroom which is great.  I wouldn't have been able to fit my rig in the garage anyhow...too wide.  Since it has sat for so long, I've had to do a lot of maintenance to it to get it running right.  The biggest issue that I've had was algae in the fuel tanks.  This has caused some issues with it stuttering while driving and getting poor fuel mileage.  I think I've got that issue taken care of now.  Since this toter can't pull a goosenectk, i sold my old trailer and I picked up a 33' bumper pull 2 car hauler so that i can still haul 2 rigs when we go to off road parks.  My hopes/plans is to hit Moab up this year in the fall possibly.



Now back to the important part...the crawler

Since my last update, I marked the spots along the dash bar then removed it.  I then drilled and riveted some tabs to secure the wiring too.  This way any wiring that goes to the engine/heater, I'll run along that and out the firewall to the engine. 



I then started working on the bracket to mount the front power steering reservoir.  Now that i'm at this phase of the build, i realized something else...i should have gone ahead and planned for the power steering reservoir bracket...but since i didn't, i have to paint everything with a brush after the fact so it doesn't look as nice as the rest of the paint.  Oh well, trivial things that won't matter once i start wheeling the rig.



Here is what it looks like with the reservoir installed.  In the picture, you can see the heat shielding that i put around the heater hose going to the vaporizer that i missed in a previous update.



I also plumbed the power steering lines fully and started bleeding the steering as best i could without the assistance of a running engine.  I just relied on the fluid to fill the system through the low pressure side of the system.  I was able to get the wheels to turn full lock to lock though.  I just put the front end on some jack stands.



Next, i built the bracket and mounted the rear brake reservoir and then plumed it to the master cylinder with the hose adapter.  Since this picture, I've ran brake lines to the 2lb residual valves and for the rear, to the brake proportioning valve.  I need to pick up some bulkhead fittings to pass the brake lines into the cab to then route to the manual line lock, cutting brakes, then out the back of the cab to the axle.  Due to the heat from the exhaust, I'm going to do the same for the clutch hydraulic line.  I'm going to run that in the cab, along the firewall then out the firewall on the passenger side for the slave cylinder.



Next I started installing the shifters and locker levers.  Seeing them in the cab is a great feeling.  I want to locate another shifter boot for the trans/reduction box, once i have that, I'll install that as well.



Nothing special here, but i had to find a location for the horns.  Not usually a big deal, but with how little space i have available, i didn't have many options.  I did still want to have horns on the truck since it will see some street time and they do home in handy from time to time.  I'm debating whether or not to leave them red or to pull the covers off and paint them black or orange.  Any thoughts?



I started to work on the skid plate for the truck.  This is what it was going to say but after i painted it, and pulled the stickers off to reveal the white lettering, i didn't like how the lettering looked so i just painted it all black.  I may get a sticker in a bright color that has the same lettering so that you can see if when i flop the rig.



I made a bracket for the coil to mount to so that i could keep the coil wire as short as possible.



One item that had me frustrated was how to connect the heater core, to the -10 AN bulkhead fittings on the firewall.  With the help of a buddy with access to a mandrel bender, we were able to bend up these lines to make the connection.  I also took the heater fittings that came with the heater core, cut and welded a bung onto them.  I pressured tested the coolant system for leaks ahead of time and fixed the couple leaks that it had.  Finally filled the system with water/anti freeze mix.  So, now the coolant system is done!



With the heater plumbed, i knew i will have some issues with the glove box.  So to find out exactly how much I'll have to cut the box, i installed the lower dash and glove box.



This picture shows how far the heater piping passes into the glove box.  Now, I'll just need to build a sheet metal box to seal off the glove box so that it'll be usable again.



I'm going to wait on finishing up the glove box and lower dash piece so that i can have access to the firewall to install the brake lines and some of the wiring.

The fun part that i started next was the exhaust.  The plan is to bring the exhaust straight out the hood.  This required a lot of pie cuts.  Once it was all said and done, i had it ceramic coated to help hold the heat in.  This is really important with how close the exhaust comes to the firewall.  There is less than 1/2" between the exhaust and the firewall.  Here are a few photos of the exhaust being built as well as the final product after it was coated.  This shows how close the tubing comes to the firewall.





This is how the exhaust exits the hood.  Since this picture, I've adjusted the waste gate piping to be more centered in the hole so don't mind that.  I will be building a carbon fiber trim ring to accent the exhaust, sort of like you see on some drag cars.  This kinda pays homage to my drag racing days.  haha



And now the final product...just not installed yet.



I actually may end up trimming the holes in the hood to allow for more room.  The truck has poly engine/tcase mounts so it shouldn't move move, but the hood will also move a little as well and i think it may need a little more room to clear.  I may look into this more once the truck is done and i see just how much everything moves.

I have a good buddy that does hydro dipping and carbon fiber work.  To have some need parts built plus to show some support for his business, he built me some orange carbon fiber door panels.  They look a little darker/more red after the resin cured but in the sun light, they look great!  I will also have a carbon fiber back drop for the gauges and switch panel on the dash.







Speaking of gauges, i installed the gauge pod back into the truck and wired the gauges up.



I started working on the turbo piping.  My initial plan was to use stainless and have my buddy tig it up for me.  But after i got the different pieces of stainless here, i realized that the one stick of stainless wasn't the high quality material and the other was.  It would be too much of a difference in color between the two, so instead, I'll send them off to get powder coated orange.  I haven't finished the turbo inlet piping just yet (currently working on that now), but here is the hot pipe tacked together awaiting time to get tig'd.  I'll add some bungs to the piping as well for the propane prime as well as future use.  In case i decide to spray water/meth into the system.



Granted, i didn't need to install them right now, i was too impatient and just couldn't resist seeing the truck with the fenders installed.  I did almost regret installing them already due to me doing exactly what i knew would happen...i'd bump into them with tools.  But i will resist the urge to install the doors at this time.  Even as bad as i want to see the truck all done, i have far too much work left to do to have to work around the doors.





I know i have more things at work that'll pull me away plus some house projects and life in general...i hope to have the rig finished in the next few months.
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kaalsb

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #257 on: Jan 06, 2018, 09:50:56 PM »
Awesome update, how did you attach those door panels?

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #258 on: Jan 07, 2018, 06:18:13 AM »
Awesome update, how did you attach those door panels?

I used self tapping screws every 3".
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #259 on: Feb 08, 2018, 08:12:13 PM »
Update:

Since the last update, i dropped off the turbo piping and compressor cover to get powder coated.  That will hopefully be done tomorrow (I'll upload a picture once i have them back).  They should be orange with some flake in the powder.

While it may not look like much of a difference, i filled the struts with nitrogen.  Granted, this is the first time and i haven't dialed them in yet, but i put 150 psi of nitrogen in all of the lower strut chambers, and the front took about 320 psi to get the chassis to ride height.  The rear took about 280 psi to get to ride height.  I was actually pretty pleased with how close those numbers were front to rear.  That at least gives me a general idea that my weight bias is pretty close...considering its a truck after all.



Next, it was about time to start working on the brakes and wiring.  Since I'm still waiting for some parts for the brakes, i went ahead and started the process of wiring the truck.  The plus about doing this, is that i can get the truck running, then check for leaks and bleed the power steering systems.

I went to the local metal supply shop and picked up some 3/16" aluminum plate to use as the fuse panel for the truck.  I then cut it to size and drilled/tapped some holes for the rear steer control box and the fuse panel to mount too.  This was the mock up of where it would be located.



Now that it was ready, i used some nylon spacers to space the panel off of the cab wall.  Then i painted it up and installed the rear steer control box and fuse box to the panel.



Now...let the wiring fun begin!!!!  Of course i have to be difficult and mount the fuse box on the rear cab wall.  I'll have to extend several wires since the kit was designed to have the fuse box mounted on the firewall just like about every car or truck out there.  I just don't have the room to do so plus i like the ease of access to the panel where it is.  There will be a nice gap between the back of the seat and the cab for me to access the fuses.



Now i have a good idea where i wanted to mount the rock lights on the truck, but i wasn't sure how wide their beam would be so i had to test them out before i drilled into the cab to ensure that they would work.  Over all, i dig these lights and think they should work out really well.  Of course they had to be orange!  Come on, would you expect anything less?  haha  Now, the wires for them aren't routed into the cab just yet, i'm still deciding on how i want to tie them together and route them.



Up front on the truck, i installed two terminal posts.  One for the common ground and the other for the common positive.  The plan for the positive is to have the power leave the battery directly to a "firewall bulkhead terminal".  From there, the power will route forward via a 0 gauge wire to the positive terminal post.  Then, the winch, alternator and starter will connect directly to that post.  With those two terminal posts installed, i started to wire the winch and alternator.  i'm waiting for a 50 waterproof/reset able breaker to arrive to hook the starter wire up.  The ground terminal post will have a wire connecting the chassis and engine via a 0 gauge wire and the winch will connect directly to the terminal post.









Now, for the power to the fuse box.  The power will leave the battery and connect to the firewall bulkhead terminal.  From there, it will travel to another firewall bulkhead terminal to which it will lead to the battery kill switch.  The plan for this is to mount it on the passenger fender near the front...close to where the upper radiator hose passes through the top of the fender.  From there, the power will travel along the bed floor into the cab and finally connect to another positive terminal post on the fuse panel.  This is where I'll tie in all power leads in the cab.  The space between the fuse box and the rear steer control box is being left for any relays that i may need to add to the system.  The grounds will tie to its respective terminal post and then pass through the cab and tie to the frame.



One of the other things i was working on was the gauges for the dash.  Using the factory gauge mount/cluster; i built a sheet metal template/backing plate and brought it over to my buddy that does the carbon fiber work, and he bonded the carbon fiber to the sheet metal and then cut the holes out for me.  It turned out amazing!!  So then i installed the gauges and LEDs for the rear steer.  I had to order 3 other matching LEDs for the turn indicators as well as the high beam indicator.  Once those arrive, I'll start to put the gauge cluster together and get it ready to install.  The plan for the wiring of the gauges, is to have all of the wires go to a single Deutsch connector.  That way if i ever have to remove it later, it will just take a single connection to unplug everything.



I'll have to start working on the switch panel for the truck.  I'm going to add a couple extra switches in case i need to bring another circuit in down the road, i won't have to redo the switch panel then.  It'll get the same carbon fiber treatment as the dash did.  Since i won't have illuminated switches, i ordered a couple air craft panel LED lights to shine down onto the switch panel so when I'm night wheelin, I'll be able to easily see what switch is what.

Side project i worked on, was to reuse the old winch cable that i broke pulling someone out years ago.  I saw a crane operator put up a video about splicing the winch cable back onto itself to be able to reuse the cable.  So i tried it out and i was pretty pleased.  It worked like a champ.  Now i have a couple pieces of winch extension cables in the event that my rope isn't able to reach what i need to anchor too.

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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #260 on: Feb 15, 2018, 07:34:56 PM »
Update:

Hopefully this time the photos will be smaller.

I dropped off the compressor cover, turbo inlet and turbo hot pipe off to get powder coated.  They came back and look sweet!  They ended up looking a little more red in the pics than what they are in person.



With the parts back, it was time to install!!



On of the items that was a little tough to decide on, was where to locate the battery kill switch.  I wanted it to be within easy reach in the event that i roll over and I am knocked out.  This was the best place that i could think of.  Any further back on the bed could have the tire blocking it or if i am on my lid, the ground could be blocking access.  I couldn't put it any further forward to the front due to the radiator and battery being placed right there.  So, i ended up placing the switch just behind the battery but before the vertical cage support.



Here you can get a little better idea where i placed the switch.



The view from inside the bed.  You may notice on all of my wire connections a bit of slim on them.  That is actually Parker o-ring lube.  A buddy of mine that works on air craft and wires a lot of cars on the side gave me the suggestion.  That along with using wire bonding brushes, it will make really good ground connections.



With how i routed the main 0 gauge power wire to the front of the truck, i needed to switch out the positive terminal post i had before in favor of a firewall bulkhead terminal.  You may also notice the breaker is now installed instead of a 50 amp maxi fuse.



I also finalized the sender unit wiring as well as the chassis to engine ground.  There is a 0 gauge wire that connects the chassis to the negative terminal post.  From there, the ground for the winch and engine are connected.  The engine is also connected via 0 gauge wire.



With the battery now grounded and power all the way to the engine, i put a charger on the battery and then began spooling the rope onto the winch.  It was nice getting to hear/see the winch in action...its been well over 2 1/2" years since it was used.  Once the truck is done, I'll have to pull the rope out and respool it on with an actual load.  But for now, the rope is on.  I also still need to weld a 1/2" diameter u-bolt to the front axle so i have somewhere to hook the winch rope to when not in use but it'll also double as a suck down winch if i need to.  I don't think i will but it couldn't hurt.



I'm finally going to address one of those helpful things that Cary from Got Propane told me about a while ago.  So, instead of having to press the button on top of my regulator everytime i go to start the truck cold, i now can just press a momentary button to do the same thing.  In the picture, you can see the 1/4" air line running from the top chamber of the regulator, to a solenoid on the bottom of the turbo piping.  The solenoid is plumbed in a normally closed scenario.  This way, when i go to start the truck, while i press the button to start it, I'll also press the button to send propane directly into the turbo piping bypassing the turbo.



Currently, I await a few more wiring components to arrive; but while i wait, i went ahead and started working on wiring the gauge cluster.  Since there are too many wires to use a single deutsch connector, I'll end up using 2, one for the lights, and the other for the power, ground, signal wires.  Now i need to start epoxy'ing the front and back half of the gauge cluster together to prepare it to be installed in the truck.



Once my next order of parts shows up, I'll be able to start getting power inside the cab.  The fun will really start once i can start wiring/testing the circuits as i go.
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #261 on: Mar 23, 2018, 06:12:14 AM »
Update:

One small change to the synthetic rope that i once had on the winch.  A local jeep guy purchased a "used" Warn winch and it came with orange rope.  The winch doesn't even look like it was ever used but needless to say, he didn't like the orange rope and wanted to find someone to trade with that had gray or black.  Well, it turned out that i wanted orange and i had gray, so we traded ropes.



Before i could put the lower dash piece back on, i need to get the brake lines plumbed inside the cab.  I picked up a couple rolls of the copper/nickel brake lines.  That stuff is really nice to work with.  I ran the brake line along the dash bar then down along the trans tunnel to meet the manual line lock.  Then i plumbed it to the cutting brakes.  I finally used a couple steel braided lines to go from the cutting brake to the rear cab bulkhead fittings.  I failed to take picture of the plumbing but you'll get to see the steel braided line in an upcoming picture.

Next, I plumbed the clutch hydraulic line along the dash bar and then down to the firewall on the passenger side.  I had to use a piece of hard line flared to connect to a male to male adapter.  Then i could connect the bulkhead to a steel braided line.  I then bleed the slave cylinder and now have a working clutch!  It didn't go as smoothly as i had hope though.  While it certainly was expected, i did have a leak with the clutch lines.  Luckily, it was the line directly off of the master cylinder.  I had to cut the flare off and redo it but afterwards i was golden.  This certainly won't be the last leak i'll have to iron out on the rig before i can drive it.



With the brake lines ran, i was now able to install the lower dash piece.  This was mainly in an effort to figure out where on the top dash piece that i want to install the MSD box.  Once that was decided, i marked and drilled the holes for the rubber MSD mounts.  Then i cut the wires at the MSD box and pinned them into a weather pack plug.  That way if i ever need to remove the dash for some sort of reason, i won't have to deal with cutting wires.

Here is what the plug looked like on the MSD box.



This is what the MSD box looks like installed on the dash.





I still need to add some trim around the edge of the hole where the connector passes through so that it doesn't get chaffed.

The next thing i wanted to figure out, was the main switch panel.  My first thought was to place it on the dash next to the factory clock.  But a buddy brought up a good point, i need to be able to reach the switches once i'm fully strapped in the truck.  With them there, i would have to lean forward just a weee bit.  So, the closest place to make a switch panel, would be on the dog box.  This worked out to be an even better idea since i still needed to build a bracket to mount the rear steer joystick and mode switch.  I first rendered the switch panel in some tried and true cereal box card board.



From there, i used more of the same 16 gauge sheet metal from the trans tunnel, to cut out the switch panel.  Then with the help of my buddy, we bent the panel.  Lastly, i welded up the corners and ground them to a smooth finish and painted it.

Before welding and painting.



After welding, painting and some wiring.  I have most of the switches wired as well as the rear steer mode switch and joystick.  Note, you can now see the steel braided brake lines from the cutting brakes in this picture.



And of course, i couldn't resist setting the seat in the truck to get an over all look and see how it feels.  I'm pretty pleased...but the light bar i rigged up in the cab to wire the truck is definitely in the way and i kept hitting my head on it.  haha



With my rig getting closer to being complete (still a month or two out), i wanted to pull my spare mog parts to my house so that i can have them easily ready for wheeling trips.  I'll bring several parts for spares in case i break something while out on the trails.



If all goes well, i'm hoping to have enough of the wiring done on the rig to possibly start the truck this weekend.  I did run into one issue though.  The wiring harness included a 50 amp maxi fuse for the starter wire.  So, i bought the 50 amp resettable breaker instead so i'm not having to deal with odd size blown fuses on the trail.  But, it turns out, 50 amps isn't enough for the starter.  I can turn the engine over but after about 1 second, it pops the breaker.  It turns out that i actually need a breaker that can handle over 80 amps.  With that new found knowledge, i ordered a 100 amp breaker.  That will hopefully arrive tomorrow.  In the mean time, in order to start the truck, i still need to hook up the propane cut off solenoid as well as the propane prime solenoid.  The prime solenoid will just aid in cold starting the rig, but the cut off solenoid is obviously a bigger deal in order to start it.

On another note, i spent several days studying the factory wiring diagram in an effort to figure out how to wire the after market harness to the factory turn signal/head light/dimmer/hazard switch, but after looking into it more; it appears that in order to do that, it would add a lot of complication to the wiring harness.  Frankly, i don't want to complicate it more than i have to since i don't need/want to troubleshoot lighting issues while out on the trail.  With that being said, i scrapped that idea, and will be just using toggle switches on the dash to control all of those lights/functions.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #262 on: Mar 23, 2018, 07:52:58 PM »
So after all of this non sense, is the digital clock still going to work?
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #263 on: Mar 25, 2018, 07:27:17 AM »
It lives! I saw it on the wife's phone from the video on Facebook.
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #264 on: Mar 26, 2018, 05:22:05 AM »
It lives! I saw it on the wife's phone from the video on Facebook.

It does.  I couldn't keep it running long since it was late and its kinda loud.   

So after all of this non sense, is the digital clock still going to work?

Yes sir, its the little things you know.


One thing that I've had an issue with on engine was it during startup it would backfire under partial throttle.  Not sure why it would do that, but needless to say, I had it running yesterday afternoon so that i could get the air pockets out of the coolant and i went to crack the throttle and BOOM goes the dynamite.  I was standing 2 feet from the air filter when it happened...so my ears where ringing a bit afterwards.  hahaha  I'm gonna call Cary at Got propane to send him my mixer test as well as to ask him if he's had this issue before.
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #265 on: Apr 23, 2018, 07:48:33 PM »
Update:

The wiring process has been slow but I'm pleased to say that it is now complete!  While it doesnít seem like there is much to show from the amount of time I've spent, I'm glad to have this step complete and to be moving on to the next stepÖplumbing the brakes.

With the wiring buttoned up behind the dash, I wanted to get the gauge cluster knocked out.  I started out by cutting the factory gauge cluster halves so that the sheet metal/carbon fiber panel would fit.  Once that was done, I used some 2 part epoxy and bonded the 3 pieces together.  I then use 2 8 pin Deutsch connectors for the wiring and installed the gauges into the dash.  I opted to not install the lens on top of the gauges to allow me to service them in the event that an LED or gauge fails.



This is how it looks with the top dash piece installed.  It almost looks as though it came factory that way.



With that taken care of, I shifted my focus onto the headlights.  I initially was going to install the switches on the dash to the left of the steering column, but with the size of the turn signal switch, there just wasnít going to be enough room for the 4 switches to be there (turn signal, hazard, head light and dimmer switch).  Instead, I installed them into the switch panel.  I liked this option more since it brought all of my switches together in one panel. 



Here is the final layout of the fuse panel on the cab wall.  The only thing left is to get 2 LED compatible flasher relays so that the lights will actually flash instead of just stay lit. 



One issue the truck has always had since I built the engine, is that it would back fire through the intake on occasion during starting.  I know it wasnít timing since that was dead on, the only other thing I could think of, was that it was the valve lash.  One thing I forgot to do back then, was to set the valve lash hot.  I set it cold while the engine sat on the engine stand.  To remedy this, I brought the engine up to operating temp, then pulled the valve cover off to set the valve lash hot.  This was a challenge since my mixer has been damaged due to the last backfire and it didnít want to idle.  I had to wedge a 2x4 between the throttle and the seat bracket to keep it running.  I have since ordered a new mixer and it runs a lot better now.  Now that the engine sits back further and under the cowl, pulling the valve cover was a lot more difficult.  One thing that I didnít account for when building the new firewall/cowl area, was the space that I would need to pull the valve cover off and out between the valve train and the cowl.  There is a raised boss on top of the valve cover that prevented me from being able to remove it.



So, I had to cut that off and to my disappointment and in case anyone was wondering, I discovered that when you do soÖ.there is now a hole in the valve cover.



I enlisted the help from my buddy so that I can have the holes tigíd in the cover.  Another item that he took care of for me, was that the valve cover I have was an LCEngineering cover.  If anyone has ever bought or seen one before, they like to rivet their logo on a plague onto the front face of the valve cover.  Well, through one of the rivet holes, it leaked oil.  In the past, I just used some RTV on the back side to stop the leak.  Well, my buddy hooked me up, he removed the rivets and welded the holes that allowed the oil to leak through.  Now, the valve cover is all set and repainted.



The next thing that I started to work on was identify where I need to mount the safety harnesses to on the seat bracket.  It was time again to set the seat in the truck and get a visual.  Its definitely exciting to see the seat in the cab again with the knowledge that very soon, itíll be there for good.



Iíll be picking up some hardware to mount the safety harnesses and once that is done, the driver seat will be bolted into place for good.  Iím going to leave the passenger seat out for now, since the 2 brake bulkhead fittings are right next to the seat.  I want to leave access to them in case they leak while I bleed the brakes.

Speaking of bleeding the brakes.  All that is left on the truck, is to plumb the brakes and take care of a few odds and ends like safety harnesses and locker levers.  Its getting close to being done!
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THK Matt

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #266 on: Apr 24, 2018, 08:44:54 AM »
:woohoo: that wiring job and carbon fiber cluster........ MONEY
1996 Jeep ZJ Laredo Daily/Weekend Wheeler
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nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #267 on: Apr 24, 2018, 08:48:00 AM »
:woohoo: that wiring job and carbon fiber cluster........ MONEY

Thanks!  i'm going to be building a couple more panels for the dash that will get the same carbon fiber treatment.
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redneckcustoms13

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #268 on: Apr 24, 2018, 09:29:27 AM »
The dude has a great job and is single. Hes got nothing but money. :idea:
80 short bed, longs, hi steer, 4.7 case twin stick, 4.11, 38 tsl, mild built 22r
83 long bed, sas, hi steer, 3rz, w56, 4.56 33s
95 4runner project
06 4 door tacoma street truck

nwflyoda [OP]

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Re: The Macheen rebuild
« Reply #269 on: Apr 24, 2018, 05:49:03 PM »
The dude has a great job and is single. Hes got nothing but money. :idea:

hahaha, you've got jokes.
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