Author Topic: Toyman2210 87 4Runner Build (Read 27082 times)

toyman2210 · « **on:** Mar 03, 2015, 03:27:14 PM »

Hey all,

Just picked up an 1987 4Runner. 1st one Ive ever had. Definatley not new to toyota, but would love to hears some pointers/suggestions on where to start. I will be building for a DD/Expedition rig. SAS looking to probably no bigger than 35"s. Would like to keep it as low as possible, but as flexy as can be. Staying all toyota on this one. Keeping the 22RE, toyota SAS, with Toyota Elockers front and rear. Already have the cases just need the dual adapter. Looking at budbuilt. I will be creating storage panels as well out of diamond plate aluminum on the entire interior. Here's some pics. Tell me what you think and where to start.

Thanks!

toyman2210 · « **Reply #1 on:** Mar 03, 2015, 03:28:43 PM »

more pics

kneedownnate · « **Reply #2 on:** Mar 04, 2015, 08:34:02 PM »

Just my thoughts since I was looking for the same rig for the same thing. A sas seems like overkill for an expedition rig/dd, seems like a decent ifs lift would be better overall.

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #3 on:** Mar 04, 2015, 09:47:22 PM »

A well setup IFS rig would work pretty well for that I imagine. but if you have the axle then you might as well SAS it for toughness and clearance and articulation. Find a soft top if you can. I love mine on my runner. Elockers are nice if you have the money. I wouldn't bother putting an elocker in the front unless you have it or want to spend extra. Just use a lunch box locker like a detroit. IMO. Looks good time to start wrenching!

toyman2210 · « **Reply #4 on:** Mar 05, 2015, 04:01:51 PM »

yeah, I ran an IFS on my 94 Pickup and tore it up. Great truck and IFS was about what I needed....while in high school.

As my income has grown, so has my ego to overcome obstacles. SAS is def in the future

toyman2210 · « **Reply #5 on:** Mar 18, 2015, 08:58:26 PM »

Well, I drove on out to Houston to pickup the 4runner. I had a family member drive it down from Colorado to Houston, where I flew to and met them. From there I drove down to Orlando. Everything went well on their leg of the trip. Even stated that it wasn't slow going as they expected (80+mph!!). However, on my leg of the trip, about 2 hours in, rear driver tire blows on me. I end up on the side of the road changing all 4 since my spare was part of a larger set of 4.....Oh yeah, best part. Didn't realize I stopped on top of a red ant hill until it was too late..

Bananaclip · « **Reply #6 on:** Mar 19, 2015, 02:14:06 PM »

Good looking rnr. I would do the sas first. You already have the steering box.

toyman2210 · « **Reply #7 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 09:06:41 AM »

Well Gents, we have Failure. Milkshake galore. Started tearing into it to do HG. Decided after what I found it will be getting full rebuild.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #8 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 09:11:13 AM »

just looked at truck, nice start, looks like what I started with

.

OVRAROK · « **Reply #9 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 09:13:06 AM »

I blew my motor up, hauling dead standing trees in the Tahoe national forest, was building a two story cabin on 365 acres on a friends lot

toyman2210 · « **Reply #10 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 12:12:33 PM »

Engine Oil

toyman2210 · « **Reply #11 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 12:17:18 PM »

[URL=http://s920.photobucket.com/user/TRAV2210/media/87%20Toyota%204Runner/DSC_0515_zpste5mkyzb.jpg.html]

[/URL]

toyman2210 · « **Reply #12 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 12:18:07 PM »

That dang intake allen bolt did a little destruction on its way out...

toyman2210 · « **Reply #13 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 12:19:44 PM »

Still trying to figure out where the coolant was getting in. You can see the timing guides had broke, but not yet let go, saving my timing cover. Head did get hot, but doesn't seem too warped. Anyways, more pics

toyman2210 · « **Reply #14 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 12:39:16 PM »

toyman2210 · « **Reply #15 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 12:44:42 PM »

Found This little bugger too

zippo · « **Reply #16 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 02:26:19 PM »

Nice! Who's head is that?

toyman2210 · « **Reply #17 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 04:32:49 PM »

Supposed to be Engine Builder's. Bought it from a guy locally who went with LC instead. It doesn't look like it's been installed, and has the DNJ stamp on the side.

Is that what Engine Builder is using?

toyman2210 · « **Reply #18 on:** Nov 22, 2015, 09:32:27 PM »

Motor coming out in the morning. Anyone have any last minute tips or tricks. Just the block left

toyman2210 · « **Reply #19 on:** Nov 23, 2015, 01:30:08 PM »

Wow, got that thing out in like 15 min. Surprising how easy it came out. Bell housing bolt were either too tight or too loose in places. Anyways here are some pics. Also found a little "issue"

toyman2210 · « **Reply #20 on:** Nov 23, 2015, 01:31:57 PM »

I assume that "flexplate" should have more bolts in it. The funny thing is I don't see any damage on the flywheel or clutch....

toyman2210 · « **Reply #21 on:** Nov 24, 2015, 02:28:55 PM »

Found this little bugger

Came from timing cover. Maybe that's what caused the crank gear to crack at the key way??

Slabzilla · « **Reply #22 on:** Nov 24, 2015, 04:01:56 PM »

As long as you have it this far down, have the lower end balanced ( crank and rod assembly). You'll have smoother idle and better acceleration and longer lasting engine with better gas mileage. I always balance my motors.

toyman2210 · « **Reply #23 on:** Nov 24, 2015, 04:13:27 PM »

To the machine shop it goes tomorrow. Not sure 100% what the plan will be yet. It looks as if everything is still in tolerance to use a std size kit. Cylinder 4 was obviously the culprit with water getting in. Don't know where it got in through yet, so well see if it mag's good. Hoping to get away with a bore and cleaning on the block. As for the rotating assembly, looks pretty decent. I didn't see much if any damage to the crank, rods or pistons. Cylinder 4 piston seemed to be different from the other three. It showed a little more wear as well.

Definitely hope to keep the bill down, but will take advantage of the motor this far down.

Anyone see where I was getting water into #4

?

toyman2210 · « **Reply #24 on:** Nov 25, 2015, 03:06:14 PM »

Called around for pricing and judgment of services today. Not many shops to choose from here in Orlando. Average price seems to be around 100$ for cleaning and mag checking. My concern is cylinder 4 as it seems to have seen some water. I believe everything should still be sized std, however there is a little piston skirt wear. 39.95 is the average for torque plate honing.

Obviously the shop will measure bores and check the deck for flatness for me to see where we are at. The only experience I have to compare these prices is from Southern California, where it is much different than here.

What do you all pay for this on the east coast???

toyman2210 · « **Reply #25 on:** Dec 02, 2015, 07:25:06 AM »

Block deck warp is .002 in right in the center of the block between #2 and #3. Cant fit a .0025 in there so i'm thinking it wont need re-surface. Crank, block and rods all measured in at STD so no need to bore, polish or re-work.

It sure is surprising that after roughly 200K miles, this engine still in STD form with minimal warping. Love these Toyota's!!

toyman2210 · « **Reply #26 on:** Dec 09, 2015, 06:57:40 AM »

Ok, I've got one spot between cylinders #2 and 3 where I can get .0025 feeler in between the straight edge and block. It's definately a low spot. What do you all think?

Run it or not?

toyman2210 · « **Reply #27 on:** Dec 11, 2015, 08:52:28 PM »

Did a bunch of research and have found that the kit engnbldr sells, is basically all rock/dnj stuff. This is obviously the cheaper stuff, however, I've heard all over the place that everyone has pretty good luck with them.

This is all based upon each setup and their prep and attention to detail, however, I think I am going to take a try with it. Kit showed up today, and everything looks better than I expected.

Probably wont use the head gasket supplied, but overall quality looks pretty good for a 170$ kit

pics to follow

toyman2210 · « **Reply #28 on:** Dec 11, 2015, 09:02:06 PM »

toyman2210 · « **Reply #29 on:** Dec 11, 2015, 09:06:28 PM »

some of the gaskets are a thick paper,(timing cover, intake, rear main...) However, I have been focusing on getting these areas as flat as possible. To within .0002 in

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