Topic: 1993 2RZ engine swap

[RyanV]

Hi guys, this is my 2RZ swap project.

These are some ideas as to how I did some things during the swap. Use these ideas at your own risk.

My original intention was to rebuild the 22RE after the oil pump ate itself and destroyed the bearings. However, thanks to the machine shop who has had my shortblock for over 8 months, and having 2 - 2RZ complete engines fall into my lap within 2 weeks I decided it was a no brainer to do the swap.

 


Heres my truck 1993 4x4 5spd ext cab



This was earlier this year when I thought the engine machine shop would have it rebuilt in like 1 month.



This is what the oil pump did to itself. Despite all this is ran great, just had a knock






Fast forward 7 months. My friend found a complete 2004 2RZFE in a Tacoma with a burned cab. I got the entire thing for $500. The next day we found a 2003 Tacoma that had been in a front end collision and we pulled that motor for $500. Both are clean, but the 2003 has a small amount of glitter in the oil.

I've sent an oil sample from both the Blackstone to see what they have to say the wear is from. Regardless, since I'm planning to build a turbo setup it wouldn't hurt to have a fresh 2RZ to turbocharge with MLS head gasket and head studs.



Harness with some of the wires that won't be needed removed.

[RyanV [OP]]

I've had many Toyota projects and the fact that my Toyota SPX companion flange/crank tool fits the 2RZ makes me very happy. 



Just like a 2JZ crank. The bolt holes allow oil to flow through if you don't use thread sealer. FIPG does work for this purpose if you don't use OEM bolts which have red thread sealer on them.



I got bored and had a can of VHT wrinkle red and went for it.



I ended up ordering a custom pan from NW TeamYota, so while they're building the pan we decided to test fit the engine and mock up or fab everything else that will be needed.

Found a good spot for the obd-2 port



heres our temporary oil pan 



We found that if you have an 89-94 a/c compressor, the stock pickup lines and manifold will bolt directly to the RZ ac compressor. The connector is even the same and it's basically the same compressor, but with a different clutch.



93' compressor on the floor compared to the RZ one. They are the same. You'd need to evacuate the freon prior to starting the swap and be ready to retro fit r134-a because that's what the RZ pump is designed to run.



We're kinda blown away by how much stock pickup stuff can be used for the swap such as this stock pickup power steering hose. We kinda just stood there and it was like, 'oh check this out, this can be turned around and it fits like it came that way.' I know we just cut the longer stock RZ heater hose and it fit perfect.



This line is just flipped around



Stock 2RZ radiator hose trimmed a bit to fit. Both 2RZ rad hoses fit the 22RE radiator perfectly

[RyanV [OP]]

For the slave I just bent a short section of 10x1.00 pre made brake line from the parts store. The line fits in the stock clutch line tab down the fender well and then I reused the stock short hardline and rubber line.





All that's left is to fab the exhaust crossover, fuel lines, battery cable and complete the wiring harness.

For the fuel lines I decided to use a M12 to barb fitting at the fuel filter inlet and rubber hose down to the fuel feed line that I cut down below and bubbled flared.

stock feed is 5/16, return is 1/4

We fabbed a 1/2" thick spacer for the passenger chilkat bracket. That is what is needed to roll the engine back over so that the transmission mount isn't getting crushed on one side.

[1985CRAWLER]

this is awesome!

[R.DesJardin]

Liking your write up. 2RZ's rock, and adding boost is the next option for a couple more ponies.

[RyanV [OP]]

Thanks guys! Yeah, we've been drooling over turboing this sucker since starting the project.

We're actually going to weld a oil drain  bung into the pan when it comes in. That way I can plug it and it'll be ready.

I've got to give a major shout out to my good friend Kyle (Elevated Motorworks) He's been a giant help and he's the one doing the wiring harness and the welding work that will be done.

Darin and I live fairly close and we're both doing our swaps at the same time. He's created a great webpage to document some of this stuff.

http://www.2rzturbo.net/?p=77

[HogCanyonHopper]

[RyanV [OP]]

Can anyone explain this? I knew there were 2 different clutch fulcrums in the parts catalog, but the only one available that I could order is way too long.

Should be 10mm of threads and the new one is 17mm

New Tacoma 2RZ on the left, old T-100 W59 in the middle and 93 22RE on the right.

UPDATE: my t100 bellhousing accepted the tacoma as well as the t100 fulcrum and they fit the same so either one works, at least with the t100 bh



I'm using the Chilkat engine brackets and we noticed the engine is leaning too much towards the passenger side. This wouldn't be that big of a deal if I had a solid front axle or 2 wheel drive, but I have a 4x4 IFS diff to clear. That and the transmission mount is getting more stress put on the passenger side. I ordered OEM RZ engine mounts and they have obviously been updated by Toyota at some point. The part number is new and the new mounts are angled quite a bit. I was hoping they'd help correct the engine angle, but they didn't.

[twistedtoy92]

Nice work so far! Boosted 2RZ will be sweet, what turbo are you going to run and how much boost are you looking to pump out of it?

[RyanV [OP]]

Thanks! It'll probably be a T3 Holset turbo with a 3" exhaust. I think the W56 would be the limiting factor of the turbo setup, so around 225-250whp probably?

It's an OBD2 Toyota which means the ECU is always gonna try and fight whatever piggy back you have hooked up altering the signals. We're gonna look into the possibility of running a 3sgte ecu. If not that my friend has a generic Honda AEM V1 standalone box that would work, if I could find someone legit to tune it.

Here's a video of my old Supra on the dyno. I put this car together in my garage. Auto to R154 trans swap, Precision 61/76mm turbo, AEM v1 tuned by Justin Nenni(tuning god)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8240EAWbVWA&list=UUE0Yz0Nyumz-Yhihec4n_jQ

[RyanV [OP]]

For whatever reason the 2RZ only comes with the front engine hanger hook. This is correct rear hook. $10 well spent!



Well, I guess we could always go back to the 22RE.....   



This is the trans mount after I shimmed the passenger side Chilkat engine bracket with two fairly thick washers. I think 1 more washer ought to do it. The hood clears, we checked.

Also as a tip: if you ever order a knockoff brand of transmission mount, make sure you use the original low profile center bolt/nut. This Made in Thailand transmission mount had a nut that was way too thick and it contacted the bottom of the trans which wouldn't have been good to put on the road.

[twistedtoy92]

Hx35 or Hx40?

[RyanV [OP]]

Not sure, depends on what I can find.

[RyanV [OP]]

EDIT: removing LRO radiator post, for now.

[RyanV [OP]]

Just trying to keep knocking stuff out while waiting on the oil pan to come in.





Swapped the oil pressure sensor to the big 93 style one. Same plug! Man, a lot of this stuff uses the same plugs as my 93



That little dipstick tube plug does pop right out without a fight. I'll have to mount the engine brackets to the engine first before tapping in the T100 dipstick tube.



I'm keeping an eye on the clearance between the edge of the block and that round body tab down there. I might cut some material off that tab when the motor comes back out just to make sure there's clearance. The motor torques towards the passenger side.



My friend finished the harness. It looks awesome! Just taping and wrapping it up now. 



He added this new orange connector from a Lexus Sc300 I believe, which houses the OBD2 wires that will go across the dash to the OBD2 port. He also ran the VSV wires to this connector so that we can try different resistors until we make that circuit happy. I believe what he said is that the Evap VSV basically needs a voltage clamp similar to the HKS fuel cut defencer etc..

This is also neat because it can be unplugged whenever the harness is removed instead of having to pull the wires back through the dash every time.

[RyanV [OP]]

We spent 5 hours trying different things to get the engine to rock back over where it should be. My truck is IFS so even with the custom NorthWestTeamYota oil pan, clearance is critical.

This is as good as we could get it so far. I went and checked my friends Tacoma and the p/s cap is definitely supposed to be level.



Getting the engine to sit like that wasn't easy. We got 4 washers on the passenger side and removed the shield(1 washer thickness) from the driver side.

If we have to run with these mounts as-is we're gonna get a piece of plate steel 1/2" thick and drill out the bolt holes and place it under the passenger mount.



We're also keeping an eye on the driver mount because the bracket has it slightly twisting which could cause premature failure.

[1985CRAWLER]

im going to possible be doing a 22re to 2rz swap here pretty soon, im glad u are posting this up and the details as well,

how complicated has the wiring part been so far?

did u use the 2rz clutch/fork/slave? thanks

[RyanV [OP]]

im going to possible be doing a 22re to 2rz swap here pretty soon, im glad u are posting this up and the details as well,

how complicated has the wiring part been so far?

did u use the 2rz clutch/fork/slave? thanks

My friend that's been doing 1JZ/2JZ swap harnesses is doing the wiring and based on what he said, it's a pretty simple conversion compared to other Toyota/Lexus swap harnesses. I think he was talking about offering the conversion service through his business.


Far as the clutch-
W59 T100 bellhousing
3RZ Luk brand flywheel
3RZ Exedy clutch kit because it's slightly larger than 2RZ, no brainer upgrade
3RZ clutch fork, slave, pilot and fork pivot
OEM 3RZ flywheel bolts(come with thread sealer on them. The boltholes go all the way through the crank into the oil pan area, you want those threads sealed up, especially if you're wheeling)

[John Doe]

im glad u are posting this up and the details as well,

X2!

I had my own frustrations with engine placement when using a set of Chilcat 3.4 motor mounts when doing my swap and after seeing the troubles you are having I dont think I will use there mounts again. They make strong mounts but it looks like their geometry/ placement is off!

[RyanV [OP]]

X2!

I had my own frustrations with engine placement when using a set of Chilcat 3.4 motor mounts when doing my swap and after seeing the troubles you are having I dont think I will use there mounts again. They make strong mounts but it looks like their geometry/ placement is off!

He said he was looking into the fitment. I've decided to just run with what I've got, because the swap is almost complete. I still have to go find a piece of steel and cut 3 holes in that  I've already spent probably 10 hours dicking with the mount fitment, and a $20 DeWalt Cobalt drill bit.

[RyanV [OP]]

Started messing with the fuel lines. I'm using 5/16" Gates Barricade fuel injection hose for the feed and 1/4" for the return. Gates Barricade working pressure is either 180psi or 225psi depending on which part# you get. It's E-85 compliant too, so you can run straight E85


 I'm leaving the fuel lines on the passenger side. I'm going to heat wrap the exhaust manifold/pipe and cover the rubber fuel hose with firesleeve. Other than that, there should be plenty of room to move the fuel lines 5 inches away from the exhaust to make things safe. I'm concerned about the brake lines because they are close. We're thinking about making a heat shield with sticky sided DEI heat barrier to protect them.

I used a small tight space tubing cutter to remove the stock fuel feed rubber hose. I couldn't unbolt it as the fitting stripped. The downpipe will need to be cut and angled.

 What I decided to do was unbolt that fuel feed line further back down the tunnel and bend it towards the transmission/tunnel. Then I'll put a bubble flare in the line using a double flare tool and run the 5/16 hose up to a 12mm banjo to barb fitting at the fuel filter. That'll allow me to use the stock filter, and line that goes to the fuel rail. Again, I'll wrap the rubber fuel hose that runs behind the block down to the metal feed line in firesleeve to make sure the fuel doesn't get heated.  I'm also using ABA fuel injection clamps. Should be a decent solution. Maybe not the best, but it'll work.



I bought these 1" cushion clamps at Home Depot and I had to ream out the holes a bit. There's several bolt holes in the back of the block that don't get used so this will keep the fuel lines from moving around too much.

The oil is from when I had the engine upside down.

[twistedtoy92]

Not sure, depends on what I can find.

I have an 8 blade HX35 with the 12cm turbine housing, was going to put it on my 20r/22r hybrid but my buddy has a 6 blade HX40 with a BEP .70 A/R turbine housing he said I could have. That turbo put down over 500hp AWD in an eclipse running 40 psi on a mustang dyno. So we will see what I can push out of the 20/22r/e with a mitsubishi 1G ecu/harness and ECM link to tune it. I've helped tune a few DSM's and that tuning software has been the most user friendly I've come across yet. The Maestro software I have on my Audi is like tuning in jibberish... ridiculous. 

Looks like your buddy does some good work!!! Keep it up! 

[RyanV [OP]]

I'm still waiting on the oil pan. Meanwhile the to do list keeps getting shorter and shorter. 

I had a hi press power steering hose made up at a local hydraulic shop. The fittings aren't cheap, but they are nice. I kinda took a chance on being able to use only straight fittings and it worked out great. That hose is the good stuff. 2,250 psi Aeroquip AQP High-Pressure Hose FCG0615

That other hose isnt messed up, its just the abrasion covering...Im gonna replace it




This is what I'm doing to the fuel feed line so I can use rubber hose. It's a bubble flare. You use the flat side of the double flare fixture to do it.(not the side shown, whoops) Insert that die and crank down until you like the bubble.


We made these 1/4" alum spacers that are gonna sit under the passenger engine mount. It ain't ideal but do what ya gotta do. It should be fine.

[1985CRAWLER]

 

MORE UPDATES!!!

[RyanV [OP]]

Sorry, I rented a game called Destiny and I'm hooked. 

I got those engine mount spacers installed. I also bubble flared the fuel line. Mission accomplished for today. Back to Destiny 

[Tungsten Slayer]

Man, I really hope he figures out what the deal is. I think we about got it in a good place, but I still have to go find a piece of steel and cut 3 holes in that  I've already spent probably 10 hours dicking with the mounts and a $20 DeWalt Cobalt drill bit

Ryan,

We are working on checking the mounts fixture out.  I should know more very soon.  I've got a rig with some of the first mounts from years ago and we are swapping with some mounts that were just made to see if there is a change. 

[RyanV [OP]]

Ryan,

We are working on checking the mounts fixture out.  I should know more very soon.  I've got a rig with some of the first mounts from years ago and we are swapping with some mounts that were just made to see if there is a change.

Awesome, can't wait to hear what you find out. Thanks for checking on it!

[RyanV [OP]]

Harness is ready to rock.

Long section at the bottom is newly added with Toyota connectors to go under the dash to the obd2 port.

[1985CRAWLER]

sick tight man!

so is that just the engine harness? or dash harness too?

[RyanV [OP]]

sick tight man!

so is that just the engine harness? or dash harness too?

That's just the engine harness and the seperate obd2 extension section that will run under the dash to where the obd2 port is located. The 2 plugs next to the ecu are for the body harness that goes under the dash that run to the cluster.

Friend says that he hasn't had to do the tach resistor mod on the last couple few Toyota swaps he's done, so that would be cool. Just one less thing needing done.