Author Topic: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread  (Read 100390 times)

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LittleSteve

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #270 on: Jul 16, 2017, 02:33:53 PM »
A BIG 10-4 on that!!!.... torque conversion....that's handy.

Gnarls.

no stalling unless your trying to hard.
torque converters can triple engine torque output.
no loss of drive whilst shifting.

but sshhhhh... dont tell BigMike.
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #271 on: Jul 16, 2017, 02:47:13 PM »
no stalling unless your trying to hard.
torque converters can triple engine torque output.
no loss of drive whilst shifting.

but sshhhhh... dont tell BigMike.

fluid couplings are for chumps  :smokin:
:)bestgen4runner [12:45 PM]:   I am so stupid.

Truer words have never been spoken...

LittleSteve

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #272 on: Jul 16, 2017, 02:48:14 PM »
fluid couplings are for chumps  :smokin:


then you may call me chump.
LittleSteve: Holding up traffic and giving dubious advice since 2014.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #273 on: Jul 16, 2017, 03:03:37 PM »
fluid couplings are for chumps  :smokin:

Wheeling with my first 1986 Long Bed automatic was a dream on the trails!!

Gnarls.
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #274 on: Jul 16, 2017, 03:32:39 PM »

does the misnomer say it makes more torque?
also, the cure for stalling is driver education
if your that worried about oil starvation, fit an accusump or dry sump it or fit more baffles in the pan. gravity is the cause of oil starvation not lugging.

Quote

does the misnomer say it makes more torque?


No, however their choice of words and connotation is just a matter of conceptual semantics.


Quote
also, the cure for stalling is driver education


All the education in the world is not a better cure than a Marlin Crawler t-case.

Quote
if your that worried about oil starvation, fit an accusump or dry sump it or fit more baffles in the pan.


I’ve never been worried about oil starvation while wheeling.

Quote
gravity is the cause of oil starvation not lugging.

Gravity is the cause of many things… oil starvation due to oil pump cavitation is not generally considered one of them, but there is an interdependence of variable quantities – a correlation.

Gnarls. :smokin:
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #275 on: Jul 16, 2017, 04:27:39 PM »
The greater mass of the heavier flywheel will still be an awesome advantage even with the Crawler case. The Turbo flywheel and clutch assembly that Marlin sells are heavier and are for just that purpose of keeping the RPM's rolling at crawl levels and great grabbing ,of course. Converters are still great on the trail too.   :beer:
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #276 on: Jul 17, 2017, 04:16:20 AM »
The greater mass of the heavier flywheel will still be an awesome advantage even with the Crawler case. The Turbo flywheel and clutch assembly that Marlin sells are heavier and are for just that purpose of keeping the RPM's rolling at crawl levels and great grabbing ,of course. Converters are still great on the trail too.   :beer:

Again, just looking at it from a different perspective…

At $350 for flywheel and $950 for MC case, spending the money for flywheel would be at about 33% invested into a crawler case.  The heavier flywheel may only reduce the frequency of stalling the engine.

“...The Turbo flywheel and clutch assembly… great grabbing..."

If “great grabbing” is referring to the clutch and flywheel engagement, its interesting that the guys I know who bought a heavy duty clutch and pressure plate (e.g. CentreForce) quickly found one problem. The “grabby” clutch was NOT better for crawling and 4-wheeling. The quick engagement did not allow for feathering of the clutch, so the vehicle was very jerky, which made basic traction more difficult and no finessing.  The other potential problem is the heavier pressure of the plate pressure puts extra strain on the stock clutch slave cylinder, and blows a weak or worn slave cylinder.

Try negotiating a trail with NO clutch in your manual transmission.  :yikes:

I witnessed a guy with a new CentreForce dual friction clutch and pressure plate, nurse his vehicle off the trail, and all the home.  He had to start the vehicle in 1st gear, then RPM slack shift between gears. I immediately went out and bought a brand new clutch slave cylinder to add to my “on-trail” spares kit.

So investing $40 in an extra spare clutch slave cylinder and a bottle of brake fluid seems like a no-brainer whether or not you are running a heavy duty pressure plate.

In all my years a wheeling, I have only seen one guy smoke a clutch, and it was on high mileage truck in the sand dunes.

As I have said before, nearly everything is a trade-off.

That’s just my opinion – it may be worthless.  :dunno:

Gnarls. :spin:
« Last Edit: Jul 17, 2017, 04:34:49 AM by Gnarly4X »
1986 XtraCab SR5 22RE 5speed W56B, ~16,000 MI after break-in, DIM (Did It Myself) rebuilt engine - .020" over, engnbldr RV head, OS valves, 261C cam, DT Header. https://imgur.com/oACTHTR

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Toy_Yoda [OP]

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #277 on: Jul 17, 2017, 08:55:25 AM »
I finished up installing the flywheel and marlin clutch kit over the weekend.

I modified Steve's idea a little and since I have an old flywheel out of the 85 parts truck that I wont use I cut off the ring gear and made a little tool up that worked great.



I was easily able to get the new ARP bolts torqued down to 85 ft lbs as per their instructions.



Since this is my first time installing a new clutch I was a bit paranoid about getting the clutch in the correct orientation.  I installed it with this side facing the clutch cover.  I believe this is correct based off what the FSM states.



and finally bolted the clutch cover on


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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #278 on: Jul 17, 2017, 08:56:27 AM »
I'll be sure to let you all know what I think of the heavier fly wheel once the truck is finally up and running.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #279 on: Jul 25, 2017, 10:43:06 AM »
A little progress update.  I got the transmission cleaned up a bit with a wire wheel.  Nothing fancy just trying to get most of the dirt and grim off of it.  Also, installed a new seal in the front and slapped a coat of paint in the cover (mine had a decent covering of rust on it) then installed the new pilot bearing and clutch fork.



Finally added a coat of paint the iron part of the transmission as mine had a decent layer of rust forming on it.



Planning to get the trany and tcase all bolted up soon!

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #280 on: Jul 27, 2017, 10:39:11 AM »
Damn, lovin this build-up, killer work! thanks for all the pics, getting me amped to start mine next year.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #281 on: Jul 31, 2017, 07:50:04 AM »
Progress update...

Got the transmission and tcase all bolted up and installed.





I also installed all the shifters and finally had a chance to make sure everything shifted into gear like it should.  At first I felt like the tcase wasn't shifting into high gear but it was just a little tight at first.  I've seen been able to shift everything correctly (I think) but I've never actually driven a dual cased/twin sticked truck before.

I was able to shift the trany no problem and the crawl box easily from H-N-L.  The twin stick tcase was able to shift H-N-L (just needed a little bit a finagling to get it into gear) and the other side from 2-4 wheel with out issue.   

Next up is to move onto the fuel and brake lines and start cleaning and prepping the cab interior for some kind of coating just not sure yet (lizard skin possibly) along with the engine bay.

Also need to start thinking about drive shafts and exhaust pretty soon as well.  I'm planning to build a square front shaft and ordering up a new rear at some point when funds allow. 

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #282 on: Aug 01, 2017, 12:43:57 PM »
Looking good.  :thumbs:

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #283 on: Aug 04, 2017, 12:40:57 PM »
Great work, you're well on your way. It's always harder to shift a trans or t-case when they're not rotating or having been rotated to get the gears lined up, you're doin' fine.   :biggthumpup:
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #284 on: Aug 07, 2017, 10:17:44 AM »
Minor update.  I've pulled out the wiring harnesses and plan to strip them down and check all the wires/connections and then re-wrap them.  I also need to elongate the fuel pump and fuel level wires so they can reach the current tank location in the rear of the truck. 



stripped the old covering off the rear harness and removed the trailer plug harness that some previous owner spliced into the harness.  Unfortunately, they sliced open almost every wire and then did a hack job with some electrical tape to splice into the harness.





Also started to remove stuff from the engine bay so I can get it cleaned up and possibly throw some paint on it.  Any recommendations for paint? 

As you can see the cab is a bit dusty...



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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #285 on: Aug 11, 2017, 09:45:41 AM »
Not much of an update, but I've been planning to switch my fuel line up to braided 6AN but was having trouble figuring out what to do with the connection coming out of the tank from the fuel pump.  Searching online didn't turn up to many solutions but I finally found this fitting which came in the mail yesterday.



Fits like a charm and the inverted flare should allow it to seal correctly.  I did find an Earl's fitting that might have worked but it didn't have the inverted flare and I was worried it wouldn't seal all the way.



Planning to order up the other fittings for the fuel filter and fuel rail from LC engineering.  Also planning to relocate the fuel filter along with installing a fuel pressure sensor between the filter and the rail.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #286 on: Aug 15, 2017, 11:12:21 AM »
So I have some older extended brake lines that I got from Marlin a number of years ago that I never installed.  I'm currently trying to see if I can find a way to use them with my current planned setup.  This is one idea I have with the soft line coming off the caliper. 



Am I crazy about this setup or does it seem ok?  I doesn't rub any where and seems like it would work ok.  I'd plan to run a bit of hard line from the end to the t-fitting on top of the axle.  Or would I be better off just planning to run all new hard lines instead and ditch the softline on the rear axle all together?



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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #287 on: Aug 15, 2017, 12:38:04 PM »
If you don't wheel in bushes your good. I go through a lot of brake lines down here wheeling in the woods.
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #288 on: Aug 21, 2017, 07:41:53 AM »
So I decided to ditch the softline from the caliper and run hard lines instead.  I picked up some 3/16" Copper-Nickle brake line tubing and finally got a change to try out the eastwood flaring tool. 

Here is my first practice flare that I made.  Looks pretty good to me and was super easy to do.


After making a couple more test flares I started to bend up the actual lines to run along the rear axle.  I added some of the gravel guard shielding over the lines as well.  I will say the copper-nickel lines are pretty easy to bend and I did everything by hand.  For my first time bending up brake lines I feel like things came out pretty decent.




I also picked up a wilwood proportioning valve for the rear lines but I'm not sure where to install it yet.  I've seen some in the back area where the original LSVP was installed and I've seen them in the engine bay next to the master cylinder.  The engine bay seems like a better place but I'm still thinking about options. 

So for now I think I'm happy with the way the rear lines turned out.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #289 on: Aug 21, 2017, 07:54:25 AM »
That looks great! Where did you get thoe little routing tabs for the hard line? Did you make them?

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #290 on: Aug 21, 2017, 08:33:22 AM »
That looks great! Where did you get thoe little routing tabs for the hard line? Did you make them?

They are simple brake line tabs I got from ruff stuff a while back.  Originally, I was planning to use them to mount soft lines from the calipers but I didn't like how the soft lines were gonna work.  I was able to find some rubber grommets at ACE that fit in nicely and worked well with the gravel guard.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #291 on: Aug 21, 2017, 09:08:29 AM »
very nice man.
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #292 on: Sep 15, 2017, 12:10:04 PM »
Some minor updates but things have been slow since Harvey hit Houston.

I got around to modifying  this brake line mount since I deleted the LSVP and went to disk brakes all around.


Also picked up a Nutsert tool and have started to install them along the frame as mount points for the brake/fuel/wiring lines.



Working on finishing up the rear brake lines now and hope to have them finished up this weekend.



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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #293 on: Sep 15, 2017, 01:31:42 PM »
Looking good bro  :thumbs:
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #294 on: Sep 28, 2017, 05:06:59 AM »
slowly making progress...

Got a new fuel pump installed on a new sending unit (Old one was rusted up pretty bad) and placed in the tank.





I had been thinking about getting the intake and plenum cleaned and powder coated for the heck of it but in the end decided to use the funds to pick up my own parts washer.  Grabbed a 20 gal form Northern Tool along with an engine oil pan heater to help heat up the solvent a bit.





The heating pad is a little 4x5 inch $20 pad off amazon and it does work just slowly.  I'd say it needed a good 10hours to heat the tank to around "hot tub" temps.  I'd still like to get an external filter for it to help prolong the life of the solvent.



After getting the tank all setup I placed the intake manifold and plenum in for a cleaning and was pretty impressed with the results.





Got almost all the gunk out of the plenum after a decent soak.




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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #295 on: Oct 08, 2017, 02:03:12 PM »
Update... I cleaned up my old LCE teflon gaskets and installed the intake manifold.  They cleaned up really easy and look almost new.


I also pickup up some 6AN stainless steel braided fuel line and installed my first fittings.  Took me a few tries to cut the line with a cut off wheel without it fraying so I could get the lines installed.  After getting it all put together I flushed the line with water and then blew it dry with compressed air.


I then got it installed on the truck and really like how it turned out.  I now have the fuel line, rear brake line, and rear air locker line routed along the frame.  Still need to clean up the rear wiring harness and route the fuel return lines.


I have been routing everything to this point so far.  I'm planning to relocate the fuel filter and I still need to find the correct AN fittings to get it hooked up to the new lines.  I'm also planning to install a fuel pressure gauge so will be adding the correct fitting after the fuel filter for that as well.  All that will have to wait until I get the cab back on however.


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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #296 on: Oct 09, 2017, 08:41:37 AM »
 :yikes: the attention to detail and the overbuilding of the hidden yet important things. I dig it.  :bowdown: :clap: :flamer:
2007 GMC Yukon SLT Daily
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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #297 on: Oct 16, 2017, 08:37:15 PM »
The wife is taking the kids out of town for a few days so I'm starting the process of building a square front drive shaft while they are gone. 

I've been planning to use a two u-joint drive shaft instead of a double cardan for a while now and have the parts pretty much ready to put together.  I have a hi pinion front diff and duals but the outputs are not quite parallel to each other.  They are close but definitely not parallel and if I understand how the axle will move while driving I think they will become even less parallel under load.  This has me rethinking the double cardan joint a bit.  Additionally, the bud built cross-member seems like it was meant for a double cardan and I have a little concern there might be some contact issues under full flex with a single ujoint.  I currently have a double cardan off the 85 parts truck and one off my 94 IFS truck in the garage. 

So questions are how close to parallel do the output flanges need to be in order for a simple 2 u-joint drive shaft to work effectively?  Since I'm not perfectly parallel should I plan to use the double cardan at the T-case output?  Finally should I use the 85 double cardan over the IFS if I go that route?

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #298 on: Oct 17, 2017, 08:36:07 AM »
I have a two u-joint square tube front shaft with duals and a hi pinion in My truck.
I have had zero issues with it at anything under 25mph, above that it will start to make noise but no vibrations.
If I grease the slip portion to the max and it will stay quite for a few trips. As for the cross member I have the trail gear version  http://www.trail-gear.com/product/4648/crossmember-kit and have zero clearance issues.
I know This does not answer Your direct questions but If I had to do it over I would not go square tube again.  :twocents:
I am 1/5th of Perfect Fit
SqWADoosh [04:19 PM]: *sigh* I guess Chris is right and I just need to wait until I'm in a place where I have a tow rig and trailer before I get this caliber of truck
Mudder [08:28 PM]:   not try to be a jerk, but are you serious bestgen?
Prismo [06:11 PM]:   Done, time to relax or as Bestgen says....FREEDOM!
HogCanyonHopper [06:54 PM]:   I like my little rod. it gets the job done
H8PVMNT [03:30 PM]: I can go both ways.

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Re: ToyYoda's 1994 Pickup Build Thread
« Reply #299 on: Oct 17, 2017, 08:51:31 AM »
The wife is taking the kids out of town for a few days so I'm starting the process of building a square front drive shaft while they are gone. 

I've been planning to use a two u-joint drive shaft instead of a double cardan for a while now and have the parts pretty much ready to put together.  I have a hi pinion front diff and duals but the outputs are not quite parallel to each other.  They are close but definitely not parallel and if I understand how the axle will move while driving I think they will become even less parallel under load.  This has me rethinking the double cardan joint a bit.  Additionally, the bud built cross-member seems like it was meant for a double cardan and I have a little concern there might be some contact issues under full flex with a single ujoint.  I currently have a double cardan off the 85 parts truck and one off my 94 IFS truck in the garage. 

So questions are how close to parallel do the output flanges need to be in order for a simple 2 u-joint drive shaft to work effectively?  Since I'm not perfectly parallel should I plan to use the double cardan at the T-case output?  Finally should I use the 85 double cardan over the IFS if I go that route?

you want those flanges to be in phase (near perfectly parallel) to eliminate any vibrations. and iirc the 85 DC has slightly more travel than the IFS DC.

and to second BestGen, if its a crawler. square will be fine. daily a square may get noisy.
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