Search around on here there is a ton of good proven tech on the 20r/22r hybrid build.  Should be pretty impressive in a celica.

I have a new holley manifold to put a spread bore holley or other carb on a 20r head in my stash of cool stuff.  I have been thinking of selling it if you have a use for it in a balls out 20r build.

valve float didnt kill it, unless its got over 200,000 on it then maybe.

does it have the stock carb and stock exhaust??

get rid of the stock exhaust and get a long tube header I recommend LCENgineering.  but get rid of the stock exhaust. run 2 1/4 inch tube from end of collector to back of car.  i'll check back tomorrow

There's no problem with revving high just the power drops off.

There's no problem with revving high just the power drops off.

well if you have a weber and a better than stock cam and stock exhaust thats kinda like putting a 40DD bra on your flat chested girl friend.
my 79 truck had a long tube header when I bought it, but had the stock carb and skinny exhaust .  I went with 2 1/4 tube and a weber and got a lot more power but still ran flat about 4500.  I installed a .460 cam from LCE and the 20R had enough power to run 90 on the interstate.   after falling into a DEEP pit I had to upgrade my bottom end and used a early 22R block and my 20R head and could drag race almost any 4 cylinder after that.    one day at 7200 rpm I floated the valves and broke an exhaust valve off destroying #4.  later had that block bored to .060 but thats another story.

Weber 32/36 offenhouser intake "stage 3" TRD cam. Stock everything else. Looking at the air/fuel I started to go lean at 4800. Cam has 89,000 miles bottom end has well over 200,000 that includes other parts such as the valve springs and other items around the cam.

what jets are in the weber?? if you even think you are running lean get some new fatter jets.  whats the specs on that trd#3 cam?? lift?? duration??

Whatever jets that a 32/36 comes with.

Cam specs are simular if not the same as on lce for their stage 3 cam.

Whatever jets that a 32/36 comes with.

Cam specs are simular if not the same as on lce for their stage 3 cam.

you sure about that?? cams from different companies can vary greatly.

this is my truck with a stage 2 LCE cam. 35inch tires and weighs 4500 pounds,   this cam probably has 60,000 on it in this video.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VX1AFhpOck


here are the specs for a LCE stage 3.  this would be a pain in the ass to drive on the street

20R/22R - Stage 3 Camshaft
Hot Street / Circle track / Drag performance (2500-6500 rpm)
Side drafts, Holley 2 Barrel, 1 5/8" Header
     Intake    Exhaust    
Valve Lift    475    475    
Advertised Duration    295°    295°    
Duration @ .050"    255°    255°

Pain in the ass is right. But I've learned to drive it well. And yeah those are the same specs.

weird, I was sure TRD was like one number down from LC,  anyway.  pull the top off your carb and look down in the fuel bowl and get the number off the top of the fuel jets.  then you'll know what you need to order.

79coyotefrg, that video  ! An to think I feel guilty on the rare occasion I hit 4500rpm. how fast where you going, I couldnt take my eyes off the tach.
  Theres alot more to those 20/22r hybrids than just slappin a 20r head on an early 22r block, right?

Yes I read one of your posts and I was like Damn! I'm going to put the best valves I can find into the 20r head I want it to be safe for going past 8500 but then never go past. I'm going to have the rods and crank of what's ever I do balanced to perfection. Also I was told I can put a girdle on the crank. I saw one on a Honda engine and asked "wtf is that?" Then the master mechanic next door said I could make one or find one for the 20r if I was lucky. Dose the crank need the beefing up? I assume the stock crank can handle stupid power. What about the mains?

Yes I read one of your posts and I was like Damn! I'm going to put the best valves I can find into the 20r head I want it to be safe for going past 8500 but then never go past. I'm going to have the rods and crank of what's ever I do balanced to perfection. Also I was told I can put a girdle on the crank. I saw one on a Honda engine and asked "wtf is that?" Then the master mechanic next door said I could make one or find one for the 20r if I was lucky. Dose the crank need the beefing up? I assume the stock crank can handle stupid power. What about the mains?

these cranks have 5 main bearings so the girdle isnt that much of a necessity.   I saw a video a few years ago where a 22RE with dual turbo's and nitrous making 1100 hp but probably had $20,000  in it if not more.
but you can get plenty out of the engine you have listed if you fatten up those fuel jets..  with correct cam timing and work finding the right curve on the 20R distributor I think you can find 120hp easy out of the 20R.

I had a '77 Celica a while back. Ran the 20/22R mildly ported head, tube exhaust and a Weber 40DFEV, which is a synchronous 2 barrel 40mm down draft. Car was lightened by about 300lbs and had a rear from a Corolla GTS(AE86) for the LSD, 4.10 R&P. Car ran low 14s and passed tail pipe emissions easily. My 2Cents on a spirited Celica engine for the street. These mods are easy and not too expensive and effective. Start with an early 22R block and punch it out to 93mm, aftermarket pistons are good for a decent upgrade. Do your calculations and shoot for 9.5-10 to 1 compression. Be sure to keep a minimum of .040" clearance between the piston and cylinder head. Use a 20R cylinder head with a good multi angle valve grind and if your budget allows match the manifold to the head. A Weber 38DGES with at least a Cannon manifold will do nicely. A cam in the 270 degree range would work well here. Bolt on a light flywheel and underdrive pulley. Get the tune right and you'll be amazed! Oh, and don't forget the electric fan. The Celica is really a light car, the hatch is a little heavier than the coupe. If you don't mind getting rid of things a 2000lb car is easy to achieve. Any more than that will necessitate suspension work to keep the rear planted. As for the power you can get out of a 20/22R? How big is your budget? Since everyone want to offer parts, how 'bout a ported 20R head with SS oversize valves and a set of side draft carbs? Head was built and bagged, never used with this build.

8000RPM will require better rods, and work on the head. You'll never achieve your goal with a 32/26 Weber, a single 40mm down draft will fall a bit short towards the upper end. Side draft carbs will get ya there! You would need a set of short 4 into 1 headers for that RPM and a 2 1/2" exhaust. Don't do the tri-Y set up for that kind of RPM, it'll fall flat. And getting the 22R to spin like that will require mods that kill your bottom end. Make sure the shop doing your balancing does a great job, it's a heavy crank and at speeds that high it likes to gyrate and destroy the oil pump. And with that note, a lightweight pulley will help keep the snout straighter as well. If you want to drag race this thing I'd suggest bulletproofing the bottom end, forged pistons and billet rods, and do a medium build, and use a power adder. Either boost it or juice it. I hit a 150 shot in one of my cars, and it added about 90whp, on a 160hp engine, Lotsa fun! But I'd have to say, your budget is a little shy. Kick it another dime and you'll be closer to your goals without cutting corners. Believe me, cutting corners costs a lot more in the long run!

8000RPM will require better rods, and work on the head. You'll never achieve your goal with a 32/26 Weber, a single 40mm down draft will fall a bit short towards the upper end. Side draft carbs will get ya there! You would need a set of short 4 into 1 headers for that RPM and a 2 1/2" exhaust. Don't do the tri-Y set up for that kind of RPM, it'll fall flat. And getting the 22R to spin like that will require mods that kill your bottom end. Make sure the shop doing your balancing does a great job, it's a heavy crank and at speeds that high it likes to gyrate and destroy the oil pump.

I would go with a long tube 4 into 1

http://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Race-Header-Kit-20R-22R-RE-2WD-Pickup-or-4Run-p/1041021.htm

So let's say 3000 budget I have an offenhouser intake. And 32/36. I was at the drag races last night with my 3.58 rear end running 18.5 I looked at the math and a 4.10 ratio is about a 15% drop in time if I hook up and get all my shifts. When I had the 3.73 3rd got squirrely on a HARD shift. I'd like to be in $2000-3000 for the engine.  Goal wheel hp is 150-160. If I get more cool but at least 150 hp at 5500rpm and the ability to rev up to 8000 without blowing to kingdom come.

also, about the max on these engines is going to be 6500. if you get a rev limiter and set it at 6500 you will save your self a LOT of money