Author Topic: Advice on my link calc #s.  (Read 3645 times)

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MRHilux87

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Advice on my link calc #s.
« on: Mar 06, 2014, 03:56:42 PM »
Ive been working on my rear four link.  First link setup ive done.  Needs to drive well down the road.  Still want some capable flex.  Its going to be a flat/tube bed that I will build around the suspension, so as far as space goes its wide open.  The only handicap is to fit everything up front my frame is around 26in. 
If the picture isn't clear enough here is some numbers:
Upper link length: 45.
Lower link length 40. 
Static anti squat: 139
Travel anti squat 139
Roll axis angle is 1 degree of oversteer. 
Roll center height is 27in. 

Advice or help wanted.  Id like to get the anti squat number down a little bit but I need to maintain my vertical separation at the axle(300hp and 450ft lbs) and I don't want brackets hanging too low. 
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

jrock

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Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #1 on: Mar 06, 2014, 04:21:34 PM »
First you have to fix your vehicle specs. Set them to your street setup. Your rolling radius is very low.

Then raise the frame side uppers 2"... $.02

MRHilux87 [OP]

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #2 on: Mar 06, 2014, 04:30:22 PM »
Ok thanks.  i changed my rolling radius to 18.  If I raise the upper frame mnts my anti squat goes to 100.   Little better.  id like it down in the 50-70 range. 

« Last Edit: Mar 06, 2014, 04:36:36 PM by MRHilux87 »
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

jrock

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Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #3 on: Mar 06, 2014, 08:38:13 PM »
100 is a good starting point. Leave up and down adjustments in the upper frame mount. You can lower or raise you AS based on how it works for you.

Also, the AS will change depending on where your actual center of mass is. Most use the hight of the upper bell housing bolts at this point. 

MRHilux87 [OP]

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #4 on: Mar 06, 2014, 09:38:55 PM »
Ya thats the point that I used.  I imagine that number is not very accurate.  Depends alot on roll cage, frame, engine, and bed weight. 
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

TacoRunner

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #5 on: Mar 09, 2014, 10:45:49 AM »
why are you afraid of losing ground clearance. most of the pro buggies out there are around 19"-21" bellies.
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HogCanyonHopper

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #6 on: Mar 09, 2014, 10:58:21 AM »
whats a good resource for learning about all things "links"? I want to understand what all the terms mean and why they are important yada yada yada. Not trying to thread jack, just want to have a better understanding of what i am reading. I want to link my first gen some day just for shits and grins.
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
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helipilot77

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #7 on: Mar 09, 2014, 01:51:35 PM »
best website around is TacoRunner's. The link is in his sig. He has sections on terminology and different theories. he also wrote an article for the 2010 July/August issue of 4WD Toyota Owner Magazine that was amazing.
-1987 SR5 4runner, 1KZ-t turbo diesel with mech. pump
 & custom 3" S.S. dump pipe, R-151f transmission, marlin dual ultimate transfer cases w/ triple shifter, SAS, 35's https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=98969.0
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HogCanyonHopper

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #8 on: Mar 09, 2014, 01:55:59 PM »
Thanks. I have seen that article on his website and forgot all about it. Some good reading for a rainy day  :thumbs:
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88478.0
Where are we going? And why are we in a handbasket?

My friend is goin to moan this weekend - RockcrawlinJK

MRHilux87 [OP]

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #9 on: Mar 09, 2014, 03:52:19 PM »
why are you afraid of losing ground clearance. most of the pro buggies out there are around 19"-21" bellies.

I was hoping you would chime in.  Thanks.  I just have everything else tucked in above the frame besides my rear driveshaft so I thought it would be dumb to have my link mnts hanging way down there.  But now that you mention it I guess they would help protect my driveline.  Have to make adjustments. 
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

MRHilux87 [OP]

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #10 on: Mar 09, 2014, 03:53:18 PM »
Do you think my roll axis is okay or should I make sure I have understeer dialed in so Its more road friendly?
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

TacoRunner

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #11 on: Mar 09, 2014, 09:42:42 PM »
Did you read the suspension write up? 

Edit:

Try and get the lower links flatter to the ground. That's rule number one.
« Last Edit: Mar 10, 2014, 05:05:02 PM by TacoRunner »
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Performance Tuned shocks for Leaf Sprung Vehicles   http://www.4wheelunderground.com/Tuning.html

MRHilux87 [OP]

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #12 on: Mar 13, 2014, 09:12:16 PM »
Ive read it several times.  I soak up a little more each time.  Ive got the lower links almost flat now, and Im happy with the numbers.  Whatever I don't like hopefully I can adjust out of it.   Heres a question for you Tacorunner:  How do the antisquat, roll center, ect numbers average out between front and rear?  Ive seen many many threads about four links and three links, but I haven't found a lot about how the rear suspension affects the front and vise versa.  If you have several degrees of understeer dialed in the rear, but your front is kinda jacked up due to space constraints...
Obviously this isn't a one paragraph answer, but I appreciate all the info you put out there to help us rookie builders. 
1987 4Runner.   3RZ.  SAS Duals 5.29 Elocker Rear Detroit front 35s... Hydro assist
2007 Cummins 6.7 DRW g56.  deleted EFI live.
2013 Ninja 1000
SOLD:
2006 Mitsibishi EVO 9.  347WHP runs 12.2s - Wifes daily driver.  Ducati 916 - track bike.

TacoRunner

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Re: Advice on my link calc #s.
« Reply #13 on: Mar 14, 2014, 05:15:33 PM »
Anti Squat: If the rear end of your vehicle is lifting during takeoff then it is also helping to keep the nose of the vehicle down. But the more anti squat or dive as it's called in the front, that you have the harder it is to keep the nose down.

The opposite is also true for the front of the vehicle. The more you have in the front the more it affects the rear.

This is why I don't like anti squat.

Roll steer plays not part in this.
www.4WHEELUNDERGROUND.com
info@4wheelunderground.com
AKA The GODFATHER The 3RZ Original

Performance Tuned shocks for Leaf Sprung Vehicles   http://www.4wheelunderground.com/Tuning.html

 
 
 
 
 

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