Author Topic: 98 Boosted short tacoma (3rz turbo) (Read 112296 times)

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #90 on:** Mar 05, 2014, 04:58:10 AM »

Thanks. I'm pretty stoked on how it turned out. I been waitin along time to make much needed changes but it was a lot of work. I'm not done yet either

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #91 on:** Mar 08, 2014, 10:20:29 AM »

so heres an update on the bad luck im having with my new rebuilt 3rz...i got the motor in and running last sunday, drove it to work mon and tues with no apparent issues, it ran awsome...well wed morn it started making a noise that sounded like it was coming from the valve train, so when i got to work i pulled the valve cover to inspect...i didnt see anything wrong and it looked like the top end was getting oil...so when i drove it some more the noise started getting louder and my oil light started flashing on and off...so i took it home and on the way i had hardly any power, and the noise was still there...then all the sudden it sounded like something broke and the noise stopped...but i still had no power...i was hoping it wasnt my oil pump and thought i was guna smoke my brand new crank...anyway i pulled the motor back out and took the timimg cover off thinking it was either my oil pump or balance shafts....what happened was the bearings on one of the b shafts got smoked and the play in the shaft ground the b shaft timing gears down to nothing and sheared some bolts off that hold one of the oiling plates behind one of the b shaft gears, thats were my oil press was escaping and explains why the oil light was coming on...the b shaft bearings are one of the only things i didnt replace when i built the motor wich was a mistake... so now im guna delete the bshafts cause the rear journal the b shaft bearing rides in is toast...i bought a b shaft bearing kit so i can use the front two to rotate and close the oil holes off for the delete...these bearings i should have bought and replaced when i built the motor but oh well..im also using my own oil galley plug i got at the local hardware store to plug the hole that used to oil one of the b shaft timing gears...and last im using a 2rz oil jet to oil the timing chain, just have to bend the tube on it to spray oil right at the chain...ill have an update on how the b shaft delete turns out when i get it back in the truck....

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #92 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 12:15:46 PM »

the balance shafts are out, the b shaft gear oiler hole is plugged, the new bearings are in clocked to close off the front bearing oil holes, now ill pick up the 2rz oil jet i ordered for 8 dollars tomorrow, and slap everything back together...

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #93 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 12:19:54 PM »

heres one of the gears that got destroyed from the b shaft bearings takin a

i had a pic of the other one that this one rode against but it didnt transfer to my computer i guess but you get the idea

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #94 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 12:22:48 PM »

those gears that got all messed up also put a hole in my timing cover from rattling around but i had another timing cover to replace it with...not guna ever have problems with those b shafts again

MRHilux87 · « **Reply #95 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 12:32:41 PM »

Thats discouraging after finishing a swap. Nice looking truck. Good luck on getting her fixed.

HogCanyonHopper · « **Reply #96 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 12:58:47 PM »

I had a guy at the round-up last year telling me that it is a really good idea to do the b shaft delete. And now seeing what you're dealing with I am thinking I better do it.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #97 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 08:19:50 PM »

It was a big mistake not replacing the bearings on those shafts when I rebuilt it. I decided to do the delete cause the rear journal on the left side shaft that got smoked was to messed up to even put a new bearing back in. I doubt the vibration is guna even be noticeable without the balance shafts. Ive had a 2rz in a truck I used to have and it wasn't bad the 2rz dosnt have the shafts I know the 3 rz has a longer stroke I've read the vibe is the worst at idle.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #98 on:** Mar 09, 2014, 08:24:00 PM »

Ill have it up and runnin this week ill let ya kno if the vibration is noticeably bad and if there's any power gain out of the deal. I'm also guna hook up an actual oil press gauge so I can monitor that. My idiot light was comin on the other day so that was good but I wana kno pressure. It's nice to kno that the idiot light comes on when there's an oil press prob.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #99 on:** Mar 11, 2014, 05:54:07 AM »

Quote from: Nation on Feb 24, 2014, 07:17:41 PM

$Beer Chug\'n$

Ok I got everything put back together. For anyone thinking of deleting the balance shafts the LC engineering kit is probly a good option. I made my own kit for less than 15 dollars if I wouldn't have had to buy the new b shaft bearings but mine were toast. Anyone else should be able to use their old bearings to clock them and plug the oil passages. I used a 2 rz oil jet but I had to bend it ten different times to get it positioned right and pointed at the timing chain plus I had to make a spacer cause one of the timing chain guides bolts on top of where the balance shaft chain tensioner used to be and the 2rz oil jet is way thinner. these are the best pics I could come up with.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #100 on:** Mar 14, 2014, 05:34:00 PM »

well the tacoma lives again..i went on a long drive today and the truck runs awsome...i feel like i have a little more get up and go now that the balance shafts are gone, i kno from what ive researched its not supposed to be that significant of a power gain but it sure feels like it...as far as the motor vibrating or shaking its pretty much the same except at idle its a little rough, but im so happy with the way it runs now who cares about a little vibration....im glad i did what i did...

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #101 on:** Mar 16, 2014, 08:39:54 PM »

daniresch · « **Reply #102 on:** Mar 16, 2014, 09:30:31 PM »

Quote from: TacomaLover on Mar 16, 2014, 08:38:17 PM

flex test since i lowered...need my flat pitman arm i cant steer when im uptravel on that side

got any pictures of this? have you already moved your steering box forward?

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #103 on:** Mar 17, 2014, 05:47:42 AM »

Here's a pic and yea my box is far forward I've even cut the core support a bunch. Plus with the heim I'm running now I'm guna leave the high misalign spacers but there's two 5/8 washers ill take out and gain 3/16 or so but I think flattening my steer box and runnin flat pit arm ill be good. The good part is I had my box set that way a long time ago so there's already slugs in my frame for that setting just have to unbolt and rebolt

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #104 on:** Mar 18, 2014, 06:27:48 AM »

I'm pretty low now. There's not much room bee tween my springs and my frame in the front. But the pitman arm seems to be the only thing that hits so I think a flat arm will help and bump stops will do the rest.

daniresch · « **Reply #105 on:** Mar 19, 2014, 04:41:12 AM »

yeah there's not a lot of room under there at all. check out skys offroad, they have a pitman arm between stock and flat that might work for you...
or just rotate the box like you said

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #106 on:** Mar 19, 2014, 05:35:27 AM »

Yea ill prob go the flat rout. That sky's arm would prob be enough though

Cheesemaker · « **Reply #107 on:** Mar 19, 2014, 08:24:17 PM »

Seen guys notch out their frame to get that extra clearance needed. Usually, it isn't much that is needed.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #108 on:** Mar 20, 2014, 06:02:57 AM »

My tierod hits the spring so running either the sky's medium arm that daniresch was talking about or a flat arm should do the trick. Prob guna order what I need fri.

1985CRAWLER · « **Reply #109 on:** Mar 20, 2014, 03:44:55 PM »

try the medium arm first suggested, with a flat arm the top of the heim might run right into the frame when turning then u will have to notch it out.

i run a flat arm since im too low to run a drop arm and the fj80 rod end rubbed the bottom of the frame when i was turning and i have a factory solid axle 85 frame that has more clearance than an ifs frame. bumpstops become your best friend when u have a low cog on leaf springs my

sweet build,like how u went with a yota mini axle instead of a drivers drop d44.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #110 on:** Mar 20, 2014, 06:28:21 PM »

Yea I was thinking the medium one would work I only need a little more clearance. And I like the yota axle way better always have. I've had two different Dana 44s under my truck and didn't really care much for them. They always wore my tires no matter how I shimmed the camber and had them aligned. I got sick of it.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #111 on:** Mar 21, 2014, 05:31:06 PM »

so i ordered a flat pitman arm cause i want all the clearance i can get and be forever done with it...im guna cut my old plates off and start over fresh with a new steering box mount...with the flat arm im guna mount the box as low on the frame as poss. that way ill have clearance for the nut on the top of the pitman arm but ill notch the frame if needed..reason i want the most clearance poss. with the flat arm is i would still like to lower my truck another inch or two but we'll see. i might be as low as i can get without makin alot of mods...im pretty happy with the height right now but never kno i might be able to drop another inch or so...im liking the way the truck performs with such a low center of gravity, i highly recommend a low stance...

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #112 on:** Mar 27, 2014, 03:37:58 PM »

i finally cut all the brackets off my e locker housing that was out of a 4 runner with 4 link...guna get it under the truck and set my spring perches in the sweet spot, weld um up, then bolt er in and ill have my elocker rear end in.... yayhoooo

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #113 on:** Mar 27, 2014, 03:40:18 PM »

cleaned er up with a sander disc

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #114 on:** Mar 27, 2014, 03:48:22 PM »

I got my flat pitman arm. I got one from TG cause it was cheaper than sky's. we'll see how it works out. Now I just have to install it.

1985CRAWLER · « **Reply #115 on:** Mar 27, 2014, 04:03:13 PM »

i have the tg i think too. and yup i also recommend lower stance. its harder to achieve when leaf sprung but man the stability off road is nice and better compared to a sky high rig with a 6" lift.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #116 on:** Mar 27, 2014, 08:55:45 PM »

I don't kno how many times I've almost put her on its side, it's Guna be a lot harder now. I'm lovin it. Once I get my steering dialed in I'm Guna go hit some trails with the fresh motor and the low suspension.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #117 on:** Mar 29, 2014, 03:39:35 PM »

Made sum gussets for good measure. Got some shock mounts to put on and getting under the truck as soon as everyone else in the world dosnt need something from me.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #118 on:** Mar 31, 2014, 06:16:57 AM »

Got my e locker axle under my truck this weekend I'm likin the turnout. Now I just have to wire it up. I'm using the factory elocker ecu that came with my truck as my truck came with an e locker but I took it out years ago when the actuator broke then instead of fixing it I sold it like an idiot and put a welded 8" third in its place. I'll have more pics of my wire up when I do it.

Crunchy Taco · « **Reply #119 on:** Apr 07, 2014, 06:20:26 AM »

So here we go with some more awsome news. My luck with this new motor has just been crappy. My old motor is in my truck right now and besides it burning oil it's a dam good motor i have more faith in it than I do my new one right now. So here's the scoop. Last week I was backing into my driveway and suddenly my truck starts running like crap and making a smoke storm out the exhaust. The smoke smelled like unburnt fuel so I knew it wasn't my rings. I pulled spark plugs and found a fuel soaked one so I assumed that was the problem chamber. I kinda suspected a valve prob at that point. I started lookin around and spotted wet spot on my exhaust manifold wich ment there's a crack. I found a crack on the tube meeting the flange. Sure enough this crack is on the tube coming from the problem chamber so I guess I sucked/burnt a valve or two or three or four. I dont think theres anything wrong with the piston/rings as i just put new rings in the motor. The top end im using on this motor came off a blown motor i bought that had a hole in the block so i think someone ran it hard. Im guna prob replace all the valves now just for good measure. I already replaced two intake valves that got bent from the piston hitting them when the rod snapped and went through the block. I could have just swapped heads from my old motor but im keepin my old motor as is for a spare so i always have a truck to drive. We got a jetta i could drive but i hate it and cant drive the wifes 4 runner cause our work schedules are different so gotta keep the taco running. Ill be tearing into the head this week and will post pics of the carnage as soon as I find it. Wish me luck.